kev Posted April 8, 2002 Report Share Posted April 8, 2002 I am trying to remove the rear struts on my 87. I cannot pull the strut from the hub assembly! There are three bolts holding it on: two coming down on a flange and one laterally which compresses the hub assembly on the strut. I cannot budge the lateral bolt! I have the complete a-arm/strut assembly off of the vehicle and am in the process of breaking it down into pieces. Anyone have this trouble before? Any tips on removal? I am having the same problem removing the A-arm from the hub assembly but that is to be expected (much bigger bolt!) I haven't tried heating it up yet. If I can't get it the brute force method, I will take it to a friends and heat it up and try again. But I still don't understand why I can't budge that little 14mm bolt! kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Posted April 9, 2002 Report Share Posted April 9, 2002 Here is what I usually do: Make the car sturdy, put it in neutral, take off the 4 cv axles bolts, unsrew the two vertical bolts from the bottom of the strut, unbolt the vertical bolt that clamps the assembly around the bottom of the strut. Â Pry that clamp with anything the will fit in the slit as wide as you can, I usually pound in a pry bar with a hammer, then spray it with liquid wrench then jump/stand on the rotor. But I see you lateral bolt is stuck, lots of liquid wrench and a pipe for some leverage, if your not using 1/2 inch sockets those help alittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie88TSi Posted April 9, 2002 Report Share Posted April 9, 2002 Yeah, the rear struts are kind of a pain. Basically what that lateral bolt does is clamp down on the strut. Loosen that bolt, and then stick a very big screwdriver in there. Pry it apart as much as possible. After doing that, kind of twist the strut back and forth while pulling it out. Keep repeating that (prying and twisting) and it'll eventually pop out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted April 10, 2002 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2002 Thanks for the suggestions guys, but it still wont come out . The a-arm/strut assembly is completely off of the vehicle so brasing it is now the hardest part. I have the nuts off of the lateral bolts but the bolts won't budge. I pried open the slot pretty far with a screwdriver but I can't twist the strut no matter what. I even put on a 3" pipe wrench. This weekend, I will take the assemblies up to my friends house and see if the two of us can get them apart by brute force. If not, we will heat them with the torch. I still can't get the long bolt out that holds the a-arm to the strut either. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted April 15, 2002 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2002 Well I got the struts off. THey were a pain but I did it. The strut is notched out where the lateral bolt goes thus the bolt needs to be removed to pull the strut. I was finally able to heat up the housing and drive the bolt out and then the strut came loose. I only got one strut off so far but I know the technique now so the other won't take as long. However those bolts that hold the A-arm to the hub/spindle assembly are a PIA!!!!!!!!!! I heated up the hub until it was red hot, and pounded and banged and pryed, etc etc etc. My friend and I worked for over three hours on it and it is still frozen in the hub assembly. I got the A-arm off by hacking the bolt in half but the rest of the bolt is still stuck in the hub. I am going to have to pay a machinist or somebody to remove it with a hydraulic press. Has anyone ever had this problem before? The book doesn't mention anything about this bolt being a pressed fit and the part of the bolt that I was able to drive out has no corrosion on it whatsoever. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted April 15, 2002 Report Share Posted April 15, 2002 FYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted April 16, 2002 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2002 Thanks Metric, I must have missed your thread when I was writing this one. I got the one strut off but I still have to do the other. They are a PIA but no where near as bad as removing that A-arm bolt. That has to be the most stubborn bolt I ever tried to remove on a vehicle in my life. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooltsi Posted April 19, 2002 Report Share Posted April 19, 2002 Air chisel works pretty sweet for spreading the strut 'clamp'. Remove the bolt that clamps down before spreading as it's near impossible once spread due to the no longer aligned holes. As for the long bolt. If I'm understanding you it's the bolt through the outer two bushings? If so there is a small bolt that actually goes in perpendicular that keeps that 12" bolt from coming out. It's hidden but definately there. I can take some pics if interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted April 19, 2002 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2002 Thanks for the info Cool. Yes that is the bolt that I am talking about. Yes I saw the small bolt and removed it. These things are just siezed up that is all. Siezed up more than any bolt I have ever tried to remove on a car as a matter of fact. I am just going to take them up to my machinist next week and have them pressed out with a hydraulic press. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFBMX88 Posted February 5, 2004 Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 ill just add something to this nearly 2 year old thread dont forget the anti-seize when u reassemble u never know if/when ur gonna take it apart again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 5, 2004 Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 FYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted February 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 Still others have to resort to the large hammer . Or in my case, a $1500 hydraulic press : : Those puppies suck to remove. kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted February 5, 2004 Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 make sure after you are done repalcing all the suspension parts, to check to see if the rear axles are still in place. they tend to pop-out of their locked place when changing shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 5, 2004 Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 FYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted February 5, 2004 Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 i never disconnected the axles when changing shocks. but when happens is when you step on the suspension arm to lower it enought to where the shock can be taken out of the fender, it also pulls on the axle and the C-clamp comes out of its slot. if you dont put it back completely, only a potion of the axle makes contact with the gears inside the rear differential. you will not notice anything wrong but when you do to a burn out, it will strip those gears off like it happend to me a couple of months ago. this happend once before to a friends car years ago but we didnt know what caused it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted February 5, 2004 Report Share Posted February 5, 2004 Speaking of removing suspension stuff...How would I go about taking off struts front and rear? Do I need a spring compressor? I've never done anything like this before, so I may just have someone I know, do it for me on a lift...Instead of in my garage. Also, I'm going to be using Art's coilovers, and camber plates. So does this elliminate the stock rubber parts? Like the upper spring seat, bump stops, strut insulator etc? Basically, what do I need to buy in addition to the coilovers,shocks,camber plates? OH and Art, I should be able to order the coilovers by Saturday ;D, if that's O.K. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 FYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 Brake job? I've done plenty of those on other cars, and once on the SQ. I already have the manual on CD. Basically I was just wondering on needed parts, like bumpstops and such.... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 FYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 I usually cut my bump stops to about 1/2", just enougth so metal doesnt touch metal. as for taking off teh stock springs, use extreme caution. better yet, just take your shock off the car and take it to a shop and have them take the springs off, they wont charge more than $10. but if you are doing it yourself, in addition to using a good spring compresor. get a rope and tie the spring to the shock housing so in case the thing decides to fly way, it wont go very far and hit and arm or a leg. the rubber isolaters are not very crucial to change, plus with coilover, its a 5 minute job to change them at a later time. front camber plates i would recommned for autoxing and such but rear ones come in handy on a daily driver lowered car so you wont waste rear tires by wearing them out enevenly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 I feel like such a reatard asking this but... why should today be any different. If you use the camber plates the rubber isolators are not used correct? :-[ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 yes, but you do keep the stock spring perches. unless when using coil-overs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 So, all I really need in addition to the coilovers/struts/camber plates, is the bumpstops? That's it? Also, about the spring removal...So, I take it that the whole strut/spring unit comes out as a whole...Then you disassemble the strut/spring unit... If this is true, then how do the front ones come out? They're cartriges right? It seems that I would need to take off the whole A-arm, to get the front strut assembly out correctly.... I'm gonna go study my manual........ Thanks for the help fella's.. I appreciate it alot. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted February 6, 2004 Report Share Posted February 6, 2004 Now that I think about it, i'm not using the stock springs/struts again, so I don't even need to seperate them, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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