cooltsi

Love my 89 9000 CD turbo, 5 speed, SPG kit, Griffen rims and rear spoiler. New paint with audi pearl in between the clear coats. Bilstein struts, SAS sway bars, Spax spring, lots of urethane in the suspension as well. Nice stereos system with alpine speaker, cadence amps, and clarion head unit. Spent enough on it I couldn't get rid of it.

There are definately different part numbers. So are you using a newer box in your 86?

So I have an 87 with the parasitic drain at the ETACS. Can anyone confirm if an 88 or 89 ETACS will work in my vehicle?

Yep, 83 replica, although it's a not a direct replica, the hood scoop is just a bit different and the side vents are really just depressions.

I bought one of the fiberglass hoods Whoopass racing produced several years ago. I've finally got the car in the shop for paint and i'm considering opening the hood scoop and side vents. I've debated on just opening them up or putting a stainless grid over them. The shop just wants to paint them black. Are they functional in any respect? How much debris would collect if they were wide open. Any images out there of these types of modifications? Sorry, but searches weren't giving me any actual experience other than subjective thoughts from others. I've dropped out of this community for quite some time but would appreciate some thoughts on this matter.

Figured they would. I have some from seized to works pretty well.

What kind of shape does the core need to be in.

CAn you tell what is done/replaced on the PS pumps? I need one and have tried rebuilding them in the past with mixed success. So I'm familiar with the guts and would like to know how yours differ from the 'autozone' ones.

16 X 8 front and rears weighed 18Ibs and a few oz when I last weighed them. 7's were just over 17. Never had any 9's. Given the scale, I'd say plus or minus less than 1/2 pound.

I need the drivers side rear side side bolster in black? Still have this piece?

Blighter jumped over my shoulder as I keeled over backwards. Punishment for killing all those rabbits as a kid. (Bunny bashing if your old enough to remember that infestation) Never did the actual bunny bashing but the farmers used to hand out crates of 22 shells if you'd use them to diminish the population. A 10-22 barrell would get awful hot before you'd have to reload (30 round clips strapped together). Ahhh...the old days :wink:

LOL, yah, apparantly you've heard that one. I swear that bugger was the size of a very large house cat.

I can vouch for the storage in Riverside. I helped load it in the u-haul.

Anyone use an aftermarket Double DIN? Like the Clarion Double DIN tape/CD combos? I seem to recall the face on the stock radio smaller than a normal Double DIN. I have never seen a Double DIN used but would like to retain the stock faceplate as I have my climate control mounted in the lower pocket.

Put me down on the list. I want front and rear slotted drilled combo. Once you guys get this going please e-mail me as I don't get back here very often. Stock size in zinc would be fine with me.

Actually, it is mentioned in the thread. You should contact Tony at GC and order the tender springs which will resolve the issue when the suspension is unloaded. The extra spring does eat up some height though.

I have not seen too many "coil-overs" that are used as a supplement here. Most are a replacement for the stock spring. The term 'coil-over' was coined many years ago when the springs(often leaf) and shocks were disassociated. If you see "coil-over" here it is in reference to the Ground Control or a custom built spring and perch that replaces the stock spring and perch. Gramatically, any McPherson strut is a Coil-over. Now if your on the Camaro boards of old then a coil-over would be a helper in addition to the Leaf springs or hopefully part of a 4 link conversion. Sorry for the grammatics but Coil-over is not an accurate depiction of the Ground Control or any other setup for the Starion/Conquest. If your looking to replace suspension components look to the steering also. Check the end links and balljoints on the frontend. Realistically the stock springs and shocks on the Starquests are fairly decent. Tokikos and KYB's or a mix of the two depending on your year and model. I've torn a few Starion Suspension down now and the bushing the front arm pivots on is pretty worn on most. The radius rod ends are a bit cracked usually but they are easy to change. Sway bar bushings and end links are usually shot, especially the front. The front upper strut caps. The rubber portion that sticks into the engine compartment is almost always shot, look to the rears also. Rear lowers are usually fairly healthy with some wear on the outer two pivot bushings. Realistically they are pretty durable with the exception of the front upper strut bearing plates.

Air chisel works pretty sweet for spreading the strut 'clamp'. Remove the bolt that clamps down before spreading as it's near impossible once spread due to the no longer aligned holes. As for the long bolt. If I'm understanding you it's the bolt through the outer two bushings? If so there is a small bolt that actually goes in perpendicular that keeps that 12" bolt from coming out. It's hidden but definately there. I can take some pics if interested.

Call Ground Control and order a set of "tender springs" from Tony. These are a simple loosely sprung spring that will keep the real springs tight when unloaded. Kinda hard to explain but basically they are a 15 Ib spring with lots of travel. They squish down to around an 1" when compressed but will expand greatly. I would think you would have to remove the stock perches to use these though. I'm looking for a shorter strut to put in a modified housing. I'll section out a bit of the stock strut tube and weld the top threads back on.

Bueller......Bueller...... O.k. its a cheap bump

So us poor anti-Microsoft fools are SOL? :-/

I need to finally put my Ground Control setup on the car. What are you guys that bought these usings for struts and what are your opinions of the setup?