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keyless entry


Sean_P
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I tried to get some one to wire up an wireless to my car but he said he couln't do it to our stock locks because it is a form of hydrulic locks.  He said they would have to put their type of locks in place of it for it to work.  Maybe there is a way to do it I dunno though.  Hopes this helps.
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Sorry on my late reply, I haven't checked up on this board in a while.  Anywhoo, yes, I have remote keyless entry on my 88TSi.  

 

There are a few extra parts that you have to install.  Really, it's not any different than many other imports out there.  My '90 MX6 has the same lock setup.  You have to buy an actuator that actually moves the door lock on the driver's side (doesn't matter which side actually, this was just the side I chose because all my alarm stuff is hidden in the driver's footwell, plenty of room).  You attach this actuator to the rod that goes between the door lock and the door lock switch.  When you hit the button, it fires that actuator, moves the door lock, and then the car's factory central door lock feature takes over and unlocks/locks the passenger door.  Keep in mind that after you have installed that actuator, it will take a little more effort to move the door lock switch back and forth.  

 

I did not disable the factory alarm, and I can actually arm both if I feel like it.  To arm both, I first arm the factory alarm like normal.  I then hit my arm button on my remote.  When I get back to the car, I hit the disarm button on my remote, and then unlock the door again to disarm the factory alarm.  Obviously, I never go thru the hassle, but it'd be neat if I felt the need.  I did actually do it once, (I had my windows down and had just got the alarm installed, so I was still in the habit of arming the factory alarm) and had a REALLY spacy moment... I reached in and unlocked the car from the inside.  hehehe, the car went nuts!   I've actually got a total of three alarms on the car.  My headunit has a built in alarm on it (sends a super-loud, super high pitched sound thru all the speakers, plus kills the ignition), although that isn't hooked up, plus the aftermarket alarm, plus the factory alarm.  The pitiful thing is that it's sitting outside unlocked, like it does every night.  I live in a good neighborhood, so I never worry about locking it.  I only lock it up when I'm out and about.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sam, I believe that the locks are reverse polarity. I had a cheap bulldog keyless hooked up and it even has the fasd to disarm the factory alarm. I took it out because I bought a better one. I ended up using the new keyless for remote door poppers for my shaved doors.

Anyways it's pretty easy to hook it up.

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I can get picture for you norats. The body is in a few stages of being finished, so I don't have any pic's of the shaved doors painted. Hopefully in a month. I also wanted to get some pic's for ConquestPa's web sight. I will try to get some up this week since my car was towed out of my garage to my dads warehouse for him to finish the body work.

The door handles were cheap to shave......$15  for a good keyleys entry of an aution place, 2x$5 relays & trunk poppers from summit...I think $25 a piece. Painting won't cost me much coz dads doing it for me.

If interested I can post pic's of how I hook them up.

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< -------- Has Techsoft on his computer.

 

It only shows 87-89 Starion's, and they are all Negative trigger. Relays located high in driver's kickpanel.

 

< ------ Runs a Clifford RS2 Remote Start/Keyless Entry Alarm system, and it's even a 5 speed. Oh the perks of being an MECP installer  ;D

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Oh, Ernie.

 

If you want to make your factory system less complicated. Simply find the Brown wire in the driver's kick or at the ETACs, this wire if supplied with a negative trigger will disarm the factory alarm system. Simply hook it into the negative unlock output, and you no longer would need the key to disable the factory alarm. Test it to make sure it goes to ground when the key is in the door and turned to unlock.

 

There's no cheat way into arming it though, due to the way it works. But with a relay and a capacitor to make a timer circuit, you could very well trick the ETACs module into thinking the door was left opened up to a few seconds after you closed the door, so that when you arm the aftermarket alarm, the ETACS would of thought the door was open when the locks were activated. This would cause the aftermarket alarm to think the door was left opened, so it would need to be set up to accept a delayed dome light system, but overall, you would benefit from both having the factory and the aftermarket alarms working together and both being remote controlled.

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