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SDS wiring harness and firewall


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I found a good place I ran my wiring harness thru for the SDS. If you notice there are quite a few connectors and wirinig to run.

 

I pulled my AC evaporator from the plastic case. If you notice there is a huge grommet in the firewall on the passenger side... it's for the 2 pipes that come out of the evaporator.

 

What I did was cut a hole in the front of the evaporator case so the wiring can come thru and up into the glovebox which my SDS will call its home. I then sealed up the wiring so no heat would escape out of the evaporator case as it is a channel for the blower motor

 

I would have to say pulling the evaporator and getting it back in is one of the crappiest jobs I have done to the car in awhile. There is no room to move it around to position it so you can bolt it down, it was a real uphill battle so get your game face on and be ready to whip some tools around if you go this route!! :)

 

 I spent 2 days  ::)  just getting the damn thing all "buttoned" up. What a pain in the rear!  >:( >:(  

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i feel your pain.  i struggled with that thing so much that i cut it all out and keeped the square ends and taped them to a smaller rectangular cardboard box. and to my surprise it worked great. i plan on redoing it with some smaller dryer vent or something flexable. but i did give me some extra room.

hope this could help someone.

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Hey Boosted I've got to see your car!!  ;D I hope I can get my Starion together for the union grove get together if it gets going. It sounds like your doing alot of the same things I want to do to my Starion. Can you give me a list of the mods and suppliers your using, I would really appresiate it ;)

later TOM

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I pulled out the evaporator from underneath the dash a few years ago 'cause I didn't care about AC and found out that Mitsu makes a neat little duct which takes place of the evaporator box and core so you have use of your blower motor. Around $12 or so from the dealer  PN#MB123891 Fits in perfectly. Hope this helps.
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Canyou post a picture of the finished product?  I think I'm going to follow your lead and go the same mounting places.

 

JC

 

 

Unfortunately I have it all buttoned up and all the ECU and stuff mounted so I can't really show the evaporator box too well. I could take a picture of the SDS mounted but that wouldn't help too much

 

DEFINETELY do like Zactek did and get that duct that he has listed. Then you can rip the box out and burn the piece of ....

 

Now THAT was one great part you listed Zactek! That'll save a lot of time for the guys that may do this route! Thanks.

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No problem, I came across it  when I was looking in the Chilton's manual and saw a picture of older Starion components in that area (the ones that used mechanical AC/heater controls) and said "that's exactly what I need!". Went to the dealer, showed them the picture and voila! I guess some Starions didn't come with AC and Mitsu designed that part  to compensate.
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I'll be installing a Haltech E6k soon enough in mine (i'll be ripping the entire engine out before hand, as well as the interior). We just finished up an installation of a haltech on another kind of car... very cool setup... I love this Haltech :)

 

Joel

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I pulled out the evaporator from underneath the dash a few years ago 'cause I didn't care about AC and found out that Mitsu makes a neat little duct which takes place of the evaporator box and core so you have use of your blower motor. Around $12 or so from the dealer  PN#MB123891 Fits in perfectly. Hope this helps.

 

Thats great!  Thank you for the info zactek.   I will buy that part as well.

 

kev

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  • 2 years later...
Bringing this one up from the dead!   ;D There were 2 of these vents left in the country, and they are both in Atlanta!  I've got one on order as of this morning and that leaves 1 left.  Now, with that update, what did you use Mike to seal up the firewall?  And how big of a hole did you make for the cables?  I went and bought a 2 1/2 hole bit last night, but haven't pulled the evaporater out yet.  I was thinking of useing vaccum tubing and just split it to keep the wires protected, and seal it w/ caulk.  You got anything more creative?
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When I installed my SDS harness I drilled a hole beside the coolant lines(I like my AC), but it was only possible after removing the ABS(which was planned). After drilling the hole(1 1/2" iirc) I installed a rubber grommet. To seal it all up I used the corrugated wire loom and slipped it thru the grommet into the passenger compartment up to the glove box. Hope this helps someone keeping the AC in place.
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From the looks of the abs I don't think I even want to get into all that!   :o  I don't have a/c on teh car, so I'm not worried about loosing my evaporater.  I am curious how you got the big connector thru a 1 1/2 hole though!  And where did you find a grommet that big?  I got split loom, just not a grommet (nor can I find one) that big!  
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ABS removal only requires caping one vac line, using a $6 metric brake line coupler (or the braided SS bypass kit Otis sells) and disconnecting a few electrical components in the trunk.
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Bringing this one up from the dead!   ;D There were 2 of these vents left in the country, and they are both in Atlanta!  I've got one on order as of this morning and that leaves 1 left.  Now, with that update, what did you use Mike to seal up the firewall?  And how big of a hole did you make for the cables?  I went and bought a 2 1/2 hole bit last night, but haven't pulled the evaporater out yet.  I was thinking of useing vaccum tubing and just split it to keep the wires protected, and seal it w/ caulk.  You got anything more creative?

 

 

 

Are you talking about the connector for the Hall Sensor?

 

I cut the sensor wire and resoldered it...screw that I wasn't about to drill a HUGE hole.  ;D

 

I made about an inch sized hole and used those "HELP" brand  hole grommets.

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just get a new set of the factory grommets and just enlarge the original holes that were meant for the two A/C lines.

if you guys need some fire-sleeve to pull over the wires in that area to keep them from exhaust heat damage, I got some.

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I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have fire sleeve over the wires!  I know there will be some real heat in that area!  Is there anywhere I could get it locally instead of you sending it to me from Cali?

 

So looks like all you guys just have a 1 1/2" hole and everything else fits thru there except the crank sensor?  I'm running SDS, not the hawk.

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I probably took the hard road here, but I used the hole that was already there for the 02 sensor wire. Pulled out the grommet, ran all my wires, but did have to run some of them with large connectors from the inside out. Everything went through and fit fine, and i was able to cut the grommet and re-use it. I mounted my SDS ECU where the factory one was. It was tight, but it fits, leaving my glove box for the Rich/Lean controller and the SDS programmer. I had also removed the factoy wiring harness for injection altogether, then took it part, getting what wires I needed, and ran them back through the factory location. I was able to have some room there to then fish some extra wires (MSD mostly) through where the factory harness ran. Took a litle longer, but it looks pretty clean, and since I am keeping my AC, I didnt want to have to be moving or cutting things under the dash.

 

Terry

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YOu can disassemble those connector hoods to make them smaler for passign though a hole.  I did that on a customers SDS install, made a new hole below the ABS and used what is called edge-guard, you can find it in some electrical supply places.  It is a strip of
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Alright, worked on it a few hours last night and getting pretty close.  The SDS stuff fits thru the a/c grommet on the firewall just fine!  I started late and forgot I didn't have any epoxy for the crank magnets so thats where I stopped.  I mounted my coil on the passenger side fender well and got all the wires hooked up and connected there.  The air temp, tps, and water temp are all connected, taped, ran, and ziptied.  Got the new vent bypass piece in and cut the glove box for the sds wires to come over the top.  Also mounted my relays on a piece of wood beside a fuse holder where the factory ecu went.  

 

I'm using a seperate realy for everything and the fuse holder I had accepts 8 ga in and puts out 6 -  atc fused 10-20 ga wires (whatever I want to use)  Do you guys see anything wrong with fusing all accesories before the relay instead of afterward?  If I do it afterward it won't be near as clean because I can't use this distribution block I ordered.  I was planning on running 8 ga from teh back, fuse it at the battery (of course) then run it into the distrib. block and have the 5, 7, 10, and 30 amp fuses going to the relay which then would go to fans, ignition, fp, injectors etc.  

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