My manual rear steer rack conversion

[Mike7447]

*I really like it when a plan comes together.
 

Let me start this off by stating I wish this was easier, but it was pretty complicated. Like everything else with this car, I am willing to do irreversible junk for the sake of accomplishing the task at hand.

You may not be.

I bought a manual rack new for a 78 Charger for 83.00 bucks. I put it out on another thread because I was so happy I found it for so cheap. For the sake of this thread, I’ll repost it here:

It’s gonna be a chore to steer the car with this rack. I checked its lock-to-lock and got 3.5 turns. While that’s great if you want really responsive steering in the twisties, steering this thing in the Walmart parking lot will take a serious set of biceps.

* something that I am woefully lacking..😞

If after getting this car running, if I find it to be a pain to steer, I’ll add a Prius EPS motor to the column. It looks like there might be enough room under the dash to accommodate it. I’ve used it on the last two projects, and it works perfectly.

The biggest obstacle to this conversion is that the steering column has to be removed and “molested” at its end.

There is a built-in, limited travel u-joint at the end that: #1. Isn’t capable of the articulation that’s needed to do this,and #2. Makes the thing too long, which further complicates problem #1.

So I remove the column and try to figure out how to remove built in u joint……🤔

I found a snap ring thingy that let me slide some cover off that exposed what looked like a pin that I might be able to beat out. 

No worky. Either I ain’t beating it hard enough, or it’s not gonna punch out. In the end  I chose to cut the thing off. When you get it off, the end of the column has a little ball with a hole in the middle where that pin that I couldn’t beat out lives. MOF, after carefully cutting the u joint shell away the pin was all that remained. As far as the pin is concerned, Things change when you hit that pin with the hammer itself.

It moves.

Bottom line, if you do this, you gotta wail on that pin,

With the built-in U-joint and the splined connector removed, the column was short enough to make this work. The next thing that you have to do is weld one of the aftermarket double D u-joints onto the end of that now shortened column. The side effect being that the column bearings and seals are less than 1/2” away from all that heat welding will subject it to.

I got a bucket of water, I welded a small amount and promptly plunged the end of the column into the bucket. I did this three times.

I had to butcher the crossmember to be able to mount the rack. The factory travel stops and the non-flat shape required I get out the sawzall and a cut -off wheel. That left a significantly weakened crossmember.

Except I can weld, and I have some 3/16” plate that needs a purpose.

While I was at it, I completely welded the center section.

*I thought I took a pic pre-rack, but I didn’t, so,….I suck.

If you don’t know what double D bar stock is, you need to. Double D allows you to use u joints that use set screws to hold everything in place. Once you get everything the right length it kinda hold itself in place, but the set screws lock everything from moving. Again, I’ve used this stuff numerous times. It has never failed on me.

It took a total of three u joints to make this work. Originally, I tried two, but the angle was too extreme, and you could feel a “ thunk” when running the steering through its course. Adding a third, and a rod end to keep everything stable fixed it all up.

The rack is just tacked in in these pics. I need to double check everything to make sure it’s all good before I make it permanent.

Next, will be the tie rod end adapting, and the front suspension conversion over to fox mustang junk.

Edited July 28, 2024 by Mike7447

[psu_Crash]

Having that rod end in there is brilliant. I've seen conversions that definitely could have benefit from that. 3 u joints and all those set screws sounds scary, but it looks like you are good to go! 

"Fox mustang junk" 😄

So if you decide to use the Prius electric assist, how does that work? Do you have to cut the column and put it in line, I assume?

[Mike7447]

2 hours ago, psu_Crash said:

Having that rod end in there is brilliant. I've seen conversions that definitely could have benefit from that. 3 u joints and all those set screws sounds scary, but it looks like you are good to go! 

"Fox mustang junk" 😄

So if you decide to use the Prius electric assist, how does that work? Do you have to cut the column and put it in line, I assume?

Yes….fox mustang junk. Made Even more Junky when add in the plethora of Chinese products available for the platform. Since it’s my objective to merely replace 40 year old suspension components, while still adding in some ride height, and alignment adjustability, I can buy stock struts, CC plates, and the coil over sleeves and 14” springs for about 300.00.

The Prius steering motor requires steering column mounting. It has a computer that runs in limp mode when 12v is supplied. The last time I bought the motor and ecu for 75 bucks. I’ll have to look at what it sells for now.

This was the last car before I sectioned that motor assy into it.

[psu_Crash]

Very interesting stuff! I have seen a lot of guys go a lot of routes. Not that one though. Sounds like a lot of work, but when you have already done it, much quicker this time around I'm sure. If I ever get around to a rack swap I'll be looking into this route. Seems significantly less expensive than most. I'm also not afraid to cut and weld. That's half the fun on some projects!