psu_Crash Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) In the process of installing a set of Cosmo coilovers (single spring) and I'm looking for some advive on the perch height. I completely removed the stock perch and machined some plates (exhaust flanges) to replace the stock perch. My question is what is an ideal height to weld the new perch at? In the pic it's currently 5 5/16" from the top of the housing. That's putting it pretty close to centered on where the stock perch was welded. I'm not looking to go super low. The plan is for a solid autocross setup, but I do actually drive the car so that is a factor too. The old STs were not up to the task. I'm looking for the most travel I can get with the coil overs not maxed out and still be in the ball park of the drop I had with the ST springs. I'd hate to weld those suckers on there and then end up with 2" or less of suspension travel.Advice is appreciated! http://imageshack.com/a/img909/5118/lVcmPG.jpg Edited June 28, 2015 by psu_Crash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoFab Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 I would ask Britt Caulder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) If i remember correctly the rears were fine at stock height but the front could have been lowered about 2" or so. sorry i dont recall exactly. For reference i ran at stock height on mine when i used to race and my front coils were maxed out for lowering. Edited June 30, 2015 by AndyW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) Thanks Andy!I think I'll drop them then. Edited June 30, 2015 by psu_Crash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Talking with a member tonight who installed this setup years ago, his advice was to put the new perches at the stock height. That still have him adjustability to dial things in and have enough strut travel. Out of town till Sunday so I'll post updates next week. Just in time for the July 11 auto cross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdrt Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 I have the dual spring set up but I ran the perches at stock height. Seems to be plenty of adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Thanks sdrt. About to weld the perches as we speak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Fronts welded up and ready to go back in the car. I have a question though. How do you torque down the nut on top of the strut? Before the D shape in the top hat would keep the shaft from spinning but that's gone now. I have a set of pliers with plastic/rubber inserts in the jaws but that doesn't get a good enough bite to hit the torque spec of 50 ft/lbs. http://imageshack.com/a/img538/7821/14HSuo.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 I used vise grips with a rag between them and the shock rod to hold it. I used camber plates though so it was easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 (edited) I managed to hit 30 ft/lbs using the rubber jaw pliers. I don't like the idea of vice grips or a pipe wrench on that shaft. I used new nylock nuts on the shock rod so I think I'll call it good as it is and just keep an eye on it.I have camber plates for the front too but they need a little TLC upon inspection so the isolators go back on for now to get ready for saturday's race. Edited July 10, 2015 by psu_Crash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 I didnt like using the vice grips either. Also I used loctite instead of nylon nuts because of the camber plates. The vise grips basically held it without scoring it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Once I had the car back on the ground I was able to torque them down. So all is well. They handled great at the autocross yesterday! But I broke more important things ... like transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Industries Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 that sucks, just when you are happy to get something done, something else goes sideways. just keep going, it will all come together eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted July 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 No worries extreme. I've been at this a long time. I'll never give up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts