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No start after head removal....


Zdawg
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I picked up an 89 a month ago and pulled off the exh mani this past weekend to replace a stud!! That turned into me taking the head off.... I left the cam gear and chain on the car and ziptied the chain to the gear so it did not move. Fast forward to today... i got the head back on and everything back together and now it will not start... switched the dizzy 180 and tried fooling with that, check the spark on #4 cyl and even popped out the injectors to make sure i was getting fuel!! So now I am stumped... Could the timing chain have moved a good on the crank sprocket since i had the cam gear sitting on the little arm that bolts to the front of the block?? any other suggestions??
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Have you checked to be sure your timing of the distributor is correct...ie...find tdc on cyl 1 and make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire post on the distributor cap?

 

BC_99

Edited by BC_99
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Bc, I did actually... the Dowel pin for the cam gear is at 12 o'clock when at top dead center right?? I played with that a few times went one tooth counterclockwise from the number one spark plug also!!!
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It may look like it's at TDC but you should not reference the pin on the gear for TDC, you should use the mark on the crank pulley, especially if there's a chance the gear may have slipped a tooth.

 

First, with the distributor out, mark on the side of the distributor where the #1 plug is. Line up the crank pulley at TDC on the timing cover. Take the distributor cap off and insert the distributor into the head, and get the rotor to line up with the mark you made for the #1 plug. If ignition timing is your problem and you haven't moved the gear on the chain, it should fire right up.

Edited by Fuze
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Thanx Fuz, I was reffering to the cam pin letting me know I am at TDC on with the crank pulley also in place, as opposed to me 180 degrees off!! thought it must have jumped a tooth I am going to pull of the timing cover today and see!!! but will check for the Starter plug first... Proto, what plug are you talkin about??? is there a plug that goes right from the starter to the dizzy??
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No...but theres a little black plug that connects to thr starter and if you remove thr head u might disconnected it by mistake...ill take a pic of it tomorrow since im not close to my car right now

 

thanx dood

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That starter plug will only prevent the starter from turning the engine if removed. I think the engine is turning over with the starter, so that shouldn't be the problem.

What Fuze is saying, is you need to put the crank balancer mark in line with the 'T' mark. Then check to see if the cam roll pin is at approximately 11:59 o'clock. If not, turn the crank one time and line up the 'T' mark again. One of those places should line up the cam roll pin at 11:59. If not, then simply put the crank at the 'T' mark, then line the cam up to put the roll pin at 11:59. It should be easier if you put a tissue or have someone hole their finger on the #1 spark plug hole. Bump the starter a little at a time, or turn engine clockwise with a large ratchet on the balancer bolt. When you feel pressure to blow the tissue out, then you know you are on the compression stroke. Then line up the 'T' mark without going passed it. That is when the cam roll pin needs to be at 11:59 / not quite 12:00.

Then line up the distributor rotor to the #1 cap location, with the slot centered. Remember that the rotor will turn as the distributor gear engages with the cam gear.

Then it will start if there is fuel and spark and all spark plug wires are routed correctly.

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She is back up and running pretty well Thank you to all that helped... I think it was flooded when i changed the dizzy 180 still flooded, currently replacing thermos, and trying to fix the rear leaking valve over!! oh and degrease she S out of it!!
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