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I need a suspension/howto for dummies


dspan
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Hi Everyone,

 

I have read just about every post on suspension, shocks, struts, etc... and to be honest, I am more confused than I was before I started. I would like to help create a howto for the suspension dummies out there like me. I can rebuild a motor, but I don't really "get" suspensions.

 

My motivation is simple. I have an 89 SHP with a very tired suspension. When it comes to suspension work, I take may car to a dealership or suspension shop. I tried a couple different shops and one dealership and they all told me they couldn't help because couldn't find parts.

 

So here is what I need and with help I will create a howto for others in the same situation.

 

1.) To replace entire suspension, buy A, B, and C. You can get various options from website X, Y or Z.

2.) Put car on lift, remove A, B, and C.

3.) Install X, Y, Z.

4.) Get alignment.

 

I will do all the work on my car, take lots of photos and document the whole process in detail. I just need help getting started, especially with step 1.

 

Thank you in advance for anyone that can help get me rolling on this project.

 

 

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You can't buy the rear suspension bushings for the cars anymore. You can buy all of the front bushings, the differential mount bushings, and one of the rear control arm bushings. I forget which of the rear control arm bushings is still available, but most people just go with the Master Polyurethane bushing set and call it a day. I'm restoring my 87 from the ground up and trust me...I've looked for the rear bushings EVERYWHERE. I even have personal ties with some of the mitsu dealerships.

 

- Charles

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All of the front bushings you can get from RockAuto, Napa, Advance, etc. For the front you'll need:

 

Strut Rod Bushings (1 Set)

Ball Joints (x2)

Tie Rod Ends (2 Outer, 1 pass inner, 1 drivers inner)

Control Arm Bushings (1 set)

Strut Mounts (x2)

 

Note: The outer tie rods HAVE to be the longer ones for intercooled years. The shorter ones are for the nonintercooled (flattys). Also, the control arm bushings will need to be pressed in and out. Be sure to place something in the cavity to keep from bending the arm structure.

 

As fir the rear bushings, you can get the Differential mounts from Randy (enginemachineservice.com). The one control arm bushing that IS available as well as the Torque Tube bushings you can only get at the dealership. I have part numbers somewhere if you need them.

 

For the rear suspension you will need:

 

Sub-Frame Mount Bushings (x2)

Differential Mounts (x2)

Torque Tube Bushings (x2 Lower, x2 Upper)

Control Arm bushings (x2 A; x2 B; x4 C)

Rear Strut Mounts (x2)

 

The control arm bushings are named A, B, and C in the locator manual, by the way. Hope this helps some.

 

- Charles

Edited by nightwalkerancestery
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Had my starion for almost 3 years now and Im still a noob but the front suspension was the first thing I ever did to the car. With no prior experience working on car outside of oil changes I ordered all the parts from rock auto and got to work with help from the guys here. One thing I will mention to save you some money at the alignment shop is to measure the driver side tie rod threads before you remove it so that you can reinstall it the same. If you dont the alignment shop is going to have to pull that tie rod out to spin it = $$$. Also worth doing it right the first time and getting all the poly bushings from GNT on here.
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Hey bud, you can go 3 different routes:

-MOOKIE still sales front and rear shock absorbers. There will not be the adjustable kind as the original SHP's but they will be new ( I think they only come in red color)

-You can dismount the original SHP and send them to California to TOP END PERFORMANCE, where they gut them out and install new inserts, but again they will not be adjustable. The good thing is that I heard you can request any brand of insert to be used as this will be handled as customized work.

-Purchase D2 coilovers. In some eyes this will be the best way to go, but it will not hold the original configuration nor the stance as the original OEM set up.

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