Martsubishi10 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Hey friends, I am starting this thread because I already recognize a wealth of good information here on SQC.With that said I'd like to get down to business. I have an 87 TSI that my late brother and one of my other brothers built together back in 02-03 with some parts from RapeTep- IE the head a supposed super 16G in a bored out housing as well as their "High Volume Oil Pump" they eliminated the BS and had the cylinders bored over to .040. The motor got a set of forged JE's free floating with total seal rings, and a few other extras. I wanted to let everyone know this first so they can get some familiarity with my setup. Ok so here's the rest. The car has always seemed to suffer from HEAVY oil consumption since the build. I compression tested her and I believe (if memory serves) the pressures were all around 130 PSI give or take 7 or 8 either way. Otherwise she has ran like a raped ape. I was baffled by this issue for years to the point where I replaced the valve seals to no avail. I played around with the PCV and the vent in the back of the valve cover. Although those two did significantly reduce the oil consumption but not enough. I was using around a quart every hundred miles. Yeah I know ouch lol. I have steadily noticed a decrease in oil pressure over time partly because I attempted to use 15w40 to counter the oil consumption issue. This also starved the lifters and gradually exacerbated the problem. I never did figure out exactly why this was happening and I suspect the turbocharger oil seals and bearings may have been the culprit, but I'm not sure. The car has always had a turbo timer and there is little shaft play on the turbo. OK enough of the rambling. My older bro thinks he may not have properly gapped the rings when he set the pistons up. Neither of us could be sure. I will be posting pictures here shortly of the motor. I just finished tearing down the block and carefully inspecting as I go. The ultimate cause for me doing this is because the oil pump simply lost its ability to flow as good as time went on. The car began to run really ruff suddenly and the oil pressure would not rise much higher than about 1/3. I pulled her out and discovered number one rod bearing was spun 90 degrees. The cylinders look great, the crank bearings show signs of wear but there are no groves in the crank. Also #1 rod cap appears to have become distorted slightly (oblonged) The reason I'm mentioning all this is because I've never rebuilt any motor yet, and am ready willing and able to undertake this project for the first time. I am very mechanically inclined and I know this is well within my abilities.What I need to know from you fellow SQC'ers is what do I need to know/do with the machine shop for this. I also would aprreciate any recommendations for a good and trustworthy one. I don't mind shipping if I have to. I already know I'm going to have it hot tanked and checked for cracks. As well as have the crank either turned or polished. I am lokking for a build that can safely handle around 300-350HP.Please let me know what are the things I need to know/do to make sure I get a good block and crank back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Probably the best bit of advice is to get the proper measuring tools and learn to use them. I tore down a TEP assembled block a few months ago, it had assembly issues and it had questionable machine work. You could pick up some of the assembly mistakes without measuring but you'd never know about the machine work without measuring. Be like Ronald Reagan, trust but Verify! Randy (Dad is his handle) had a motor rebuild thread on here, it likely got lost during the last software upgrade but you can still see it here: http://www.26liter.us/forum/index.php?topic=2053.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87redcat Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 The bottom ends on these motors are solid. a good machine shop can tell you if you need oversized bearings in the block with a few measurments. If you're willing to ship, ship it to Dad/Randy. Was your car ever blowing smoke? misaligned piston rings and/or worn turbo bearings will use a lot of oil. my $ 0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukaine Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hey might be the same type of problem as mine. I worked on a few things and mine turned out to be a bad valve guide seal. It was ripped in 2. You say it runs rough too. Mine did and it was from oil fouling plugs. I recommend pulling your plugs. If you have a seal that went to hell you will see the residue on the plug. Check out my thread it should help out in this situation. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=142646 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukaine Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hey might be the same type of problem as mine. I worked on a few things and mine turned out to be a bad valve guide seal. It was ripped in 2. You say it runs rough too. Mine did and it was from oil fouling plugs. I recommend pulling your plugs. If you have a seal that went to hell you will see the residue on the plug. Check out my thread it should help out in this situation. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=142646 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martsubishi10 Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for the advice guys. I recently tore the motor down and discovered the #1 rod bearing was spun. It looked like the rod bolts on #1 stretched because I had to use more force than usual to pull it apart and put it back together once I had it out. As far as the turbo seals. I now know it definitely wasn't anything related to the turbo because I recently swapped the turbo into an 88 motor that I got from a parts car. This motor runs good too; considering it has 180k on it and its the original jet valve head. Ok back to my motor. Besides the bearing being spun there were no other tell tale signs to explain the oil consumption. I'm leaning towards the rings not being gapped properly. However the cylinders were so clean I was surprised. (Very little wear ). I think the rings simply were causing the blow by. It did smoke if I let it idle for a while or I boosted . I am probably going to just have the machine shop turn the crank and get oversized bearings. Also I'm getting new rods with ARP bolts, and a new complete hydro rocker njv head. She's getting a new oil pump all new freeze plugs and dowels. I'm going to have the machine shop hot tank and magnaflux it. I don't think It needs to be decked . My pistons looked good except for some slight nicks on#1 at the edge lip area. And yes by the way it was fouling plugs. The funny thing was that it didn't drink as much oil of I stayed off the turbo. OK well if anyone has anymore advice and suggestions feel free to hit me up. Don't be shy to tell me if I'm overlooking or neglecting any important steps. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted July 4, 2014 Report Share Posted July 4, 2014 You should have it decked, don't forget to give them the timing cover when they do it, and just tell them the minimum to clean it up. 0.003-0.004" max, FSM max spec is 0.008". Reason being these blocks are not flat, they pull up around the cylinders, there are pictures on the various sites with a block with 0.001" decked and you can see it. Did you take any bore measurements? You might find some taper even though they look OK, they can still need to be over size bored. I had a block like that, if it wasn't for the taper (bigger at the bottom) in one cylinder it could have been left at stock bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martsubishi10 Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Update:Randy got me straight. You guys weren't kidding. He's the man. It turns out the folks at TEP decked the block uneven, and the pistons were too small for the bore. Randy asked me if it knocked because he was sure it had to since the pistons were smaller than they should've been. It never knocked, but it drank oil. Anyway I got him to set me up with 92mm wiseco's and I found a good crank and bushed rods from another member. It turns out my old crank was cracked right at the base of the main bearing journal and weight section. A everything is great now, and I just finished my initial break in and subsequent oil change. She's got her first 300 miles on her and she runs strong with excellent throttle response. P.S. I was wrong about the 16G. It's a 19C in a bored out MHI housing. I am running 20 psi on a studded head with an Adjusa HG. Many thanks to the know how and skills available to me here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 I didn't read the whole thread but I hope you cleaned the oil cooler, cleaned the block oil galleys, turbo and oil lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phitroy007 Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Anyone know how to remove the glove box from the conquest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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