Cannot get a brake pedal!

[DurbenQuest]

Alright this might sound stupid.

But I've had an issue with a soft pedal all season. It was fine last year.

I replaced the leaking master with a new one over winter and since then the pedal has been soft.

That new master leaked out the rear seal so I replaced it again with the beefier looking one on rock auto and still soft.

Yes I bench bled it. And ive bled the brakes multiple times and still soft.

Just tonight I got my hands on a pressure bleeder and I did it on every caliper and vacuum bled every wheel AND classic bled each wheel with each corner jacked way up and ITS still SOFT.

I just don't get it.

Visually there are no leaks anywhere. And the fluid didn't have any little bubbles in it anymore. Its safe to say I have no air.

So what can be the issue?! Im just so lost on something that should be so simple.

the pedal gets solid with the car off and running its moosh.

Had anyone had this issue?

[DurbenQuest]

I should include. ABS has been deleted for years

[questsale]

I dont know what your problem could be, but while you are doing your brakes, I HIGHLY recommend you buy these here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310766074782?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

buy a 3rd pair and use one on your clutch slave too. Makes bleeding soooooo much easier, truly a one man job

 

You do not need to bench bleed it.

Do you have stock lines, or braided?

[ucw458]

The brakes get stiffer when the car is off because the power brakes run off engine vacuum.

 

Squishy brakes can be caused by air in the system, old fluid, moisture in the fluid or worn out brake hoses. Old rubber brake hoses swell under pressure reducing the pressure to the pads.

Edited May 13, 2014 by ucw458

[Tman]

ok see if someone you know has some of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-Fuel-Line-Clamp-Pliers-Plastic-07-017-/221175872044?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337f1bfa2c&vxp=mtr they work great for clamping the rubber lines

 

Put one on each rubber line all 4 corners then feel pedal if high and hard then you stll have air in the system some were if still soft look or leak

 

( some ppl will use vice grips on lines but the teeth can damage the rubber lines )

[nomad]

Inspect the "T" that splits the brake lines to the rear wheels. It's a metal fitting mounted under the car under the rear seat. I had to replace mine.

[questsale]

ok see if someone you know has some of these http://www.ebay.com/...f1bfa2c&vxp=mtr they work great for clamping the rubber lines

 

Put one on each rubber line all 4 corners then feel pedal if high and hard then you stll have air in the system some were if still soft look or leak

 

( some ppl will use vice grips on lines but the teeth can damage the rubber lines )

 

I wouldn't advice spending $60 to clamp off your brake lines, might as well replace them with stainless steel, only another $50

 

You can use needle nose vicegrips with some fuel line over the teeth just as well.

 

Inspect the "T" that splits the brake lines to the rear wheels. It's a metal fitting mounted under the car under the rear seat. I had to replace mine.

 

This is a good place to look, also check your ABS delete lines for any leaks

 

Check your booster, and master. Make sure its bolted down all the way. The firewall has a lot of flex, which effects your brake pedal feel. Have someone push your brakes while the car is on, and observe the flex on the booster, it shouldn't move too much, but is noticeable. Unfortunately no one makes master cylinder braces for our cars, those things are more beneficial than braided lines.

 

Inspect the booster check valve, and make sure its not leaking.

[ColdScrip]

Posted this on your facebook post as well: http://www.starquest...5893&hl=booster

 

My money is on the booster and my link documents how I came to that conclusion twice with very similar symptoms.

Edited May 13, 2014 by ColdScrip

[DurbenQuest]

Thanks guys. I found out my booster rod is broken. I can pull part of it out with the master unbolted.

I have a new booster on its way. And ask the rubber lines are brand new. New pads and rotors. No abs and stock steel lines rust free. No leaks. Literally NO air in the lines lol. So the booster is getting replaced. Maybe the rod bends where the break is. And yeah the firewall does have some movement but its not a tremendous amount.

Ill keep ya posted

[questsale]

Get those speed bleeders!

[ColdScrip]

Thanks guys. I found out my booster rod is broken. I can pull part of it out with the master unbolted.

I have a new booster on its way. And ask the rubber lines are brand new. New pads and rotors. No abs and stock steel lines rust free. No leaks. Literally NO air in the lines lol. So the booster is getting replaced. Maybe the rod bends where the break is. And yeah the firewall does have some movement but its not a tremendous amount.

Ill keep ya posted

 

Every booster I have seen can have the rod come out a bit towards the master by hand as well as tilt slightly once pulled out. Skeptical if that rod is actually broken.

[vbrad511]

When you say you're bleeding things, have you bled until you've got fresh, clean fluid out at every wheel? Do passenger rear, then driver's rear, then passenger front, then driver's front.

And use a one-man-bleeder. It's a god-send.

Edited May 14, 2014 by vbrad511

[DurbenQuest]

Yes. Ive honestly bled them enough where there is all new fluid in the lines. Im installing the new booster tomorrow so we'll see.

[DurbenQuest]

Just an update. I replaced the brake booster with a new one and it fixed the problem. I cant believe I was so stumped on this. But then again I wouldnt have thought it to be the booster with a soft pedal. Thanks guys. Hope this helps someone out in the future!