Drive-By Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Wanting to get cracking on my Starion after waiting 4 years of setting up my business i'm now making the time to get her running. I built a forged engine with pauter rods, JE's, balance eliminator, fully balanced RA and a fly, tep head with cam, griffin rad, basically what seemed the best from TEP at the time. This was in 2004-5. Cutting to the chase, if I port match up my exhaust and inlet would it be safe to run the engine in on stock injection and turbo with a 2.5 exhaust, or will it be too lean or unsafe due to the cam and ported head/valves?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) If the wide band readings are good you are ok. The cam should be degreed. (likly should be advanced 4-5*)If idle quality is poor, the lack there of is likely the cause. Most of these cars can benefit from some air flow correction tuning. An afc or maft type unit. Edited June 8, 2013 by StarquestRescue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 My weisco/crower motor does just fine. Can't possibly see why yours wouldn't be fine as well. Have about 40k on it. With a 17c, 1g mas and 3inch exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted June 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Well I port matched the exhaust mani and drained any old fuel out of the tank. Cleaned up earths as I put her back together and after checking alot of the wiring found the igniter pack was faulty and swapped on the one from my Fiancee's Starion. She runs nice and smooth idles fine but now I have some confusing issues. Any throttle that pushes out of negative into positive pressure and she misses and won't pick up almost feels like boost cut. The second is that on or after cornering she boggs and misses. I don't think the two are linked, the first seems like it could be vac advance and the second maybe a wire/connection or fuel pump picking up some old fuel still in the tank. Does any of this sound familiar to you guys?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) If it is doing a hard hit at 2500 to 3000 rpms...Check the Vacuum Advance. As far as having enough fuel with Stock Injectors...Check your Wideband and Fuel Pressure Gauges. Maf-Translator installed? Enough fuel at full boost i.e. WOT (11 to 12.0 afr reading)?? The amount of Turbo Boost along with Fuel Pressure regulation should also be factored in. Bill Edited June 10, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted June 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) Hi Bill and thanks for replying. Standard lambda on there and no MAFt everything is stock in and out but the cam/valves, exhaust. Well at least all I would think could hinder her. The block has je pistons, pauter rods, has been rebored, fully balanced rotating assembly including the fidanza and ACT pressure plate. TEP stage 3 head with cam and larger valves. Balance shaft eliminator, fresh chains, guides and pump etc. I've put genuine mitsu/NGK standard BPR6ES plugs in. Timing at this time is dead on 10 degrees and fuel in the tank is fresh Shell Nitro V-Power. EGR is removed also. Stood she will rev but splutters and little coming down if revved above 3000. Driving she won't have it soon as she goes into positive pressure on the stock gauge she starts bucking and won't go above 3000rpm at the most. The missing after or during cornering happens quicker than I would have thought it could if caused at the tank end of the system but although symptoms feel a little similar and I can't rule out a relation my gut feeling is they are 2 separate faults. Edited June 10, 2013 by Drive-By Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 sputtering at any thing below 3/4 tank can be the p[ick up tube pluged in the fuel ressivor breaking up as soon as you hit boost , says plug gap too wide,, or air leak in ic pipeing or rubber collars , don't over look the rubber one comeing out of the ic , they split on the back side of the 90 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted June 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Cheers Rookie I will recheck the inlet but no signs when I checked in over when refitting it. I'm going to drop the tank wednesday if I get chance. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Zero boost on the stock gauge is about where the secondary kicks in on the 87-89's. If the secondary is dead, bady clogged or the terminals or clip corroded the car will fall on it's face. Than as the airflow drops a little the ecu switches back to the primary only and the car picks back up. Most people push the gas out of a courner which would bring in the secondary from either airflow or the tps movement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Cheers Rookie I will recheck the inlet but no signs when I checked in over when refitting it. I'm going to drop the tank wednesday if I get chance. ThanksA fuel pressure gauge viewable from in car will tell you if you have a fuel pressure problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Thanks SR, more to recheck but helpful non the less. I did check the injectors with a 9V battery when I was diagnosing the starting fault which turned out to be the igniter. The cornering stumble I have tried to drive at a constant round round abouts and shallow bends and the fault persists without any change in throttle from me. looks like I'll be ordering gauges and connectors today to start ruling things out. Would be nice to iron out some creases before the weekend as there's a show at the local NISSAN plant and would be great to take a real car for all those stance and s13 boys to look at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 How about your injector clips? Injectors might have tested fine but clips are often bad and need replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 (edited) To be real on just a Bottom End rebuild.....You should have nothing to worry about because you installed good parts. Yes, the Bottom end is strong. But to make real power the Cylinder Head needs attention. Porting and Polishing a Non-Jet valve Cylinder Head (Marnal) or the like is in order, along with Larger Valves and a higher lift Camshaft. You already have a "Bulletproof" Bottom end. The next step is the Cylinder Head. That is where you will need to be concerned about Fuel Flow, not the Bottom End. When you decide to install a Non-Jet valve Cylinder Head, to enable you to do Fuel Modifications. Post back or P.M. me.You can really make your Bottom End modifications "wake up" with a Cylinder Head upgrade. Read my modifications below. That will kind of tell you how to get the best out of a Built Bottom end.J.E. pistons .040 OS. Balanced Rotating Assembly, Lighten Flywheel. Yep, that is it. The rest is Cylinder Head, Fuel, Air and Electrical Modifications, plus a larger than stock Turbo.The Bottom End of a 2.6 is easily modified. The trick stuff comes in with all the other modifications it takes to make power A Aftermarket Cylinder Head is a good start. Air, Fuel and Spark: That is what makes a Internal Combustion Engine run. How to make one of these Engines run at their optimum?? Research. And the advice from those members on SQC who have done it successfully.Neither the Exhaust or Intake Manifolds are Port Matched on my car. Do I think it needs to be done? Not in my case.I see you have a TEP Cylinder Head....Non-Jet valve??? Did TEP tell you what Valve springs and Valves were installed? Did the Cylinder Head come with the Camshaft and Rockers???Who rebuilt you bottom end?Some members here have a problem with my advice as far as putting Cylinder Head work before installing a larger Turbocharger. You can push all the air you want. Where's the Fuel coming from to support it ???? 30 PSI Turbo Boost on a Stock Fuel set up without Fuel Modifications?????? A disaster in the making. I will not give members on SQC false advice. Nor will I give members on SQC advice that could be detrimental to their cars. Bill Edited June 11, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 No that's good Bill my full intention was to build a solid and well built short motor and then MPI and turbo to suit. I had started making my own exhaust manifold to accomodate an evo turbocharger and already have a magna intake I have modified but starting my own shop in 2008 I have had little time and even less spare cash to get her where I intended too from the start. I wanted to get the ball rolling again and so while my fiancee's engine gets pulled to work on the bottom end and I weld up the sills, I'm using her stock turbo to run mine in as it's been stood 4 years in my workshop with e motor in the never running which has been a constant niggling worry. I used my boroscope to make sure there were no signs of corrosion from neglect and all looked god everywhere I investigated so made it my mission to get her oiled up and run in so she was coated and clean inside. As for the parts from TEP I need to find all my receipts and maybe even contact TEP to see if I can get exact specs again. Alot of my paperwork and boxes were "lost" during my divorce. I've had a look at her today and done some basic checks with what little time I had, first of which was the vac advance which was my initial gut feeling and sure enough its goosed. Checking with a Mityvac it barely twitched when pumped, so thats a diaphram i wouldn't trust. New one from Mitsu is £70 but that ain't much cheaper than one from the US after shipping and tax so I'll order that tomorrow. 1 down 1 to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drive-By Posted June 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 This gives you an idea of how long I've been waiting and how memory and lost invoices are proving difficult http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101838 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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