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Still can't get quest started...more advise please


03CL55AMG
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So after getting my head back from the machine shop and putting everything back together, then trying to get the cam and timing dialed in I still cant't get my quest to fire up. Is it possible to put the cam in incorrectly..( I didn't think so but thought I would ask ), I ask because the shop that did the work put it all back together, I am getting fuel and I have spark...now I did delete the EGR and those connections are just there ( could that be it )..I have gotten good advise by members on how to dial the cam and timing in. so I got both #1 & 4 to TDC on a compression stoke then lined up the dot and line on the distributor and put it all back together but she won't start, I also tried a slightly different method which was get both #1 & 4 to TDC on a compression stroke and make sure that both valves on #1 are closed and just the exhause valve is open on #4...this is the sequence that I tried to dial in but after many tries I could not get... #1 both valves were closed but I could not get the #4 exhaust valve to be in an open at TDC, it was close but in order to get it in the open position I would go past TDC...very frustrating. So any thoughts, Ideas, to get this quest running will be appreicated,thanks.
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If you've got fuel snd spark then its most likely not firing in the correct spot, meaning your base timing is off. However, FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, pay attention to the compression while you're doing different things to get it to fire. You can and will wash the cylinder walls down with fuel when not starting and that will drop your compression to less than 100 and you need at least 100 to fire a cylinder. Pull the plugs, do a compression check to make sure you're over 100, then redo all your cam and timing settings. With the plugs still out ground the #1 plug lead and check cranking timing, do the compression check and the cranking timing checks with the injectors disconnected. If you don't get over 100 on the compression check add some oil to each cylinder, doesn't take but a teaspoon or so, and recheck. When you get enough compression and the cranking timing is close to 10 BTDC pop the plugs in, connect the injectors and it should fire.
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Good advice from scott. Just when you get to the part of grounding the #1 plug to check spark, be wary of fuel vapors. If there was a lot of fuel in the cylinders, and you remove all plugs and blew it out, could create a hazord.
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Not yet quest quest88, I jacked my shoulder up a few days ago and wrenching on the quest for 4 hours yesterday made it worse so I am resting it today, but when I was checking the compression stroke my gauge was going up to 120ish and thats was with the TB closed. scott87 was saying that my base timing was off...what does that mean and how does it happen...I have heard of timing being 180out is that the same thing. do I crank the car and check the base with my timing light and if so do I get 1&4 to TDC and line up the distributor then crank it and check the timing, thanks for the replys...I will be glad to get her running again.
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Base timing is just the 10 degrees BTDC. Just make sure #1 is at TDC and both valves on #1 are closed (cam lobes nowhere near the lifters) and stab the dizzy. Again I recommend checking the timing during cranking without the plugs in or the injectors plugged in just to verify you're in the ballpark. It'll either be somewhere close or way off, if its way off keep stabbing the dizzy until you get it close.
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Stabbing a dizzy isn't the easiest thing in the world when you've got to take into account the rotation of the rotor as it seats. It's easy to be a tooth off one way or the other and if you are you're out of range on when it fires. Too far advanced or retarded and it won't light the mixture at the right time and won't start. When you take out the plugs and disconnect the injectors you can spin the motor over faster which makes it easier to read the timing light (more flashes at faster intervals) and puts very little load on the starter keeping it from burning up (been there, done that too).
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Now when you say stab..do mean while the engine is not cranking ,or cranking and do I have to get #1 at TDC each time I stab the dizzy..or can I get it at TDC then stab the dizzy untill I have the timing in the ballpark, I just came in to read what you had posted before and read this post . I just got her at TDC and I am going to put the timing light on her so we will see...I will check this post in a little while,thanks.
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Ok, I just tried time her and this may be a really stupid question but how do you get the timing light to read...I hooked it up just as you normally would and it will not light up ( I have only used the timing light with a running motor )..so what is the trick
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Well if you have no spark the timing light is not going to work.

 

Like i told you the other day check the wires going in to the distributor, on both sides of the distributor 3 wire plug and the terminal in the plugs them self for damage that may have occurred while being removed and replaced.

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I did head your advise Rescue, I got all new wires and it appears that all the other connections are good, do I just have to ground the #1 wire in order to get a reading or all the wires,your help is appreciated.
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lol, just line up the dots and lines and it will start the first time.

 

TDC on the crank, that means the little line on the crank pulley lines up with the 0 mark on the cover. Then the cam gear pin hole will be facing straight up. Then the little divot on the distributor gear lines up with the raised line on the shaft of the distributor. Then put it in with those facing straight up, 12 o'clock.

 

the wires are lined up like:

 

1 3

 

2 4

 

if you're looking straight at it. Make sure the distributor is plugged in, the coil is wired in, and all plug wires are connected.

 

Make sure the injectors are plugged in. It should start right up.

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