devillos Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 (edited) OK....those betting on the injectors being bad.....we lost!! I sent the injectors off to WitchHunter and just got them back. I could hardly stand it while putting it together because I KNEW that was gonna be the problem. It wasn't Same exact symptoms as before. Now I am lost and have no idea. I don;t have the $$ just to parts swap. Repplaced or fixed parts are now: Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Plugs, Wires, injectors serviced, distributor cap. I love the car and want to keep it but this is getting crazy. Can anyone help? Edited June 14, 2012 by devillos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Back to what I said, the grease in the distributer can be bad and there will still be "movement", but its too slow. With good grease the motion will be snappy. When you break vaccum during the "suck test", you should be able to hear the innards clang back into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devillos Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 With the cap off, you can see the advanced but you really don't hear a "clang". Are you telling me it should snap back quick enough to make noise? I can take it apart and clean it up....at this point, Ill try anything. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Back to what I said, the grease in the distributer can be bad and there will still be "movement", but its too slow. With good grease the motion will be snappy. When you break vaccum during the "suck test", you should be able to hear the innards clang back into place. ^^^^+1Also replace injector clips, cheap insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devillos Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) Getting ready to tear apart the Dist and clean it out really good. I am also gonig to replace the injector clips, just to eliminate that from a possibility. Thanks for the tips guys, if you think of something else, let me know. It feels like I am chasing a ghost. Edited June 15, 2012 by devillos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwolf Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Really hope you find the problem. Lost the bet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devillos Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 No Problem Starwolf.....I lostthe bet too. I figured WTH, couldn't be a bad thing to make sure the injectors work like they should. I think I may be on to something. On a whim, I decided to change out the new fuel filter for another new fuel filter and now it will run but there is bad sputtering at around 4K rpm. But if you let it come up slowly, the sputtering doesn't happen. I am still going to rebuild the Distributor and see what happens. Also, on the test drive it died on me. I put a fuse in line where the wires comes off the battery down to the connection box. That fuse blew not allowing it to charge. I jumped it and put a bridge across the fuse since I was only 1/2 mile from the house. By the time I got home, the coatong on the wire had begun to melt. What makes this thing over charge or whatever it's doing. Never did that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMeyerhoff Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 That is the main fuselink. It connects the battery and alternator and its job is to prevent a fire if the alternator shorts out somehow. If your battery is really low, the alternator will charge at full power, so all that 60+ amps could flow through that fuse. How big of a fuse did you use? I'd suggest going back to a fuselink wire, it can be found at the auto parts store in bulk. If you have an aftermarket alternator with more amps, you need to upgrade the fuselink to match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devillos Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) Initially I had a 30 AMP fuse in line. I didn't realize as much as 60A flows through there. I replaced the fuse with fusible link wire. Hopefully that wll do the trick. As far as the sputter issue, I cleaned the disributor really good, put in some nice lite, waterproof grease, put it back together, and made sure the pulugs were gapped at .034......... it still does the same thing. One thing I dod notice was that when it is sputtering, there is grey/black smoke coming out of the back. When I put a boost guage on it, it boosts to 10 lbs and starts the sputtering. ARRRGGG!!!!!!!! Edited June 16, 2012 by devillos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 any change done to the dist timeing MUST be when useing a timeing light NEVER go by feel or by how the engine runs ,what sfeels better may burn up your pistons under boost also when ever you are working on an idle problem unplug the sec inj clip,, if the engine still runs the clips are on the right inj , placeing the pri clip on the sec inj will make the engine run but it'l be super rich,, and when you hit boost the engine will lean oput so much it may sputter and not perform properly due to not haveing enought fuelsmall tip inj goes to drivers side of the inj houseing large one to valve cover side an bad coolant temp sensor can cause all sorts of runing problems as the ECU will default to a super rich fuell mix at all timestesting each part of the fuel control system can be done in short order but always do a complete test on the device , and skiping this or that part can lead to frustrateing results don't asume any sensor is in proper working order and replace no part that does not fail a test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devillos Posted June 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 Thanks Shelby, I did notice that the hose just above the coolant sensor had a small drip and was dripping on the sensor, maybe I need to look at that a little closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 ? hose above the coolant sensor ? wrong sensor that is the dash temp gauge sensor , it has nothing to do with the ecu and engine temps ,,the CTS is on the intake right near the bolt that holds the dip stick mount , no hoses above it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 hey take your injector lead off the green inj. Is it the factory plug? even if so take some needle nose or small pick or such and make them small spade terminals where they will have to fit the inj really really tight. I just got my 87 engine dropped in my 89 and it would run till the boost gauge reached 0 or so and then it would fall on its face. Well I had the inj leads backwards I switched them and it wouldn't even start. Telling me the leads were bad. I tested it though but I got a different story. I just bent the spade terminals and voila! Its done fine for 3 weeks now. Although I'm still gonna switch out the leads for some new ones. So just because your leads have power doesn't mean that its getting to your injector!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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