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Blow off valve switch?


Aman
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So here's the deal: My cruise control diaphragm went out a good bit ago, and I never used it anyway, so I though "Screw it, I'll just take it out.." so I removed it, and thought a little bit. I broke out my multimeter and checked the leads on the actuator connector and found that one of the leads provides 12 volts when cruise control is on. So I took two extra emissions solenoids I had and did some wiring. I've got the 3 way secondary air filter solenoid set up to where the two constant-flow nipples have a hose from the OVCP and a hose to the wastegate, and the 12v activated nipple has a hose to a boost controller. I flip the switch and bam, I move from the stock 7 Psi to wherever in between 7 and 14 is.. (Stupid stock gauge. I'm not using the switch until I get a real gauge.) But I've got the same 12v wire going from the left side of the engine bay to the right, and it goes into the 2-way EGR valve. One nipple goes to the manifold, and one to the BOV. When I use cruise control, I get whatever boost and it activates the BOV.

 

Now for the real purpose of the thread. When the BOV is active, when I let off the gas, the BOV is delayed, but when it's hooked straight into the mani., it works fine. What can I do to the solenoid to make it flow more vacuum? Or are there bigger solenoids I can use?

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A BOV doesn't want ANY delay or tiny valve hole to pass in and out of it will NEVER open quick enough and its timing will be off and that makes it useless. You put your MBC in a line you activate using a solenoid valve, ok. The stock boost gauge is a guess based on the MAF signal and rpms. Pay no attention to it.

 

http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/boostgauge1.jpg

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yes, the stock gage is a guess-o-meter, many have blown head gaskets when it lied to them about how much boost they really had in the motor.
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Sounds interesting, but I would have done this: Wire in that extra solenoid to the wastegate so that when you turn the cruise control on it runs the vacuum line to a manual boost controller set for 18 psi. So cruise turned on is 18psi, turned off, it's stock wastegate pressure.

 

And leave the blow off valve alone, it doesn't require a switched source.

Edited by Technology
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Technology, that's exactly what I did for the boost controller. I'm saying I had two solenoids, one for the wastegate and one for the BOV. The reason is because when I had the BOV active, it stumbles at idle (like any other car with a BOV upstream of the MAF), so I only wanted to have it on when I needed it, and not have to go under the hood to switch lines and whatnot. I don't want to ruin gas mileage and completely cover the inside of my exhaust pipes with carbon! Ahaha.
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It's not leaky, it shuts at idle, but it still lets out that large volume of air that just vents into the atmosphere and makes my car burn rich. I need a Megasquirt. Soon..
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Reverse the solenoid so the BOV is the common port, free air is normally open and mani source is normally closed. That way when off the mani sorce is closed and not leaking. And any pressure going to the BOV port will be vented. Needs to be a bigger solenoid than the stock emissions ones. Edited by ucw458
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that wont cause a stumble at idle, only an over rich condition for a second or two after the BOV opens. 3 seconds max (while the valve is actualy open).
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yes. the BOV leaks cause there is enough pressure differential between the intake and IC pipes. The BOV thinks it needs to vent a little. Addign spring tension changes this trip point so it will stay shut till there is actauly the right pressure differential. the other desing that HKS uses is leak proof.
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