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Is this the OD module? It clicks when the button is pressed.


Ironside
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http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii557/Ironsidestarion/0324121806.jpg?t=1332627027

Is this the module with the shaft that needs to be a certain length?

BTW I still have no over drive.

The car drives and shifts just fine, I just can't seem to trouble shoot this dern OD...

Edited by Ironside
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That's the same part that 89Palermo recommended to me. I'm going to start a AT rebuild and that's the one I'm gonna pick up. Just got my tranny today from FijiPhil (Thanks Phil), so as soon as I gather the goods...I'm on it!

 

-N8

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That's the same part that 89Palermo recommended to me. I'm going to start a AT rebuild and that's the one I'm gonna pick up. Just got my tranny today from FijiPhil (Thanks Phil), so as soon as I gather the goods...I'm on it!

 

-N8

 

Which one?

The part # MD61 0613 or

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Nissan_L3N71B_L4N71B_Turbo_modulator_1971_on_p/820-000082885.htm

 

I got that link off of a post by 89Palermo, in an older thread.

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Bump, Just making sure the parts I listed above are correct.

I don't want to just throw parts at it till I find it.

If I could get a better idea on how to diagnose this OD issue

I will do it, this car was tore apart by a idiot mech I hired

a few years ago and I am attempting to get it back on the

road. The part I took a picture of at the top of the page

would click when the OD button was pressed.

thanks.

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Yes, this is the one and only correct one.

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Nissan_L3N71B_L4N71B_Turbo_modulator_1971_on_p/820-000082885.htm

 

The OEM is no longer available and the rest are garbage. I went through three modulators and the link I posted worked right out of the chute although I believe its adjustable. I dont know if that will solve an OD problem though???

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I have the same problem, no over drive, and I have checked both modulators, and both are working fine. Still no over drive. I had overdrive and no down shift before. Rewired the wiring due to a bad connector, and now have down shift and no over drive. Could it be inside the transmission where the problem is at ? If you find the problem, please post your findings.
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the O/D solenoid is the one mounted forward top on the side of the trans.. let me see if I find you a pic..

 

Update:

It is called the O/D cancel solenoid and is located on the driver's side of the OD unit case. the pic is on page 21-74 of section 21 of the FSM. It should click when you press the OD cancel button on the shifter. If it does the o-rings may still be bad, it has one on the threads of it to keep it from leaking out, and one inside the bore it is threaded in that makes it work. when you pull it out you may need a scribe or something to extract it.

 

Mine worked fine, just that the wires somehow got cut and the PO put it together with electrical tape.. I soldered the wires, shrink wrapped them, and it's been fine ever since. currently at 190k with the original as far as I know.

Edited by The Rabbit1
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I have the same problem, no over drive, and I have checked both modulators, and both are working fine. Still no over drive. I had overdrive and no down shift before. Rewired the wiring due to a bad connector, and now have down shift and no over drive. Could it be inside the transmission where the problem is at ? If you find the problem, please post your findings.

 

I sure will, I hope to find it soon.

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I just found a small issue with mine as well (as of yesterday). I resoldered some of my connectors last night and now I don't have OD (which I used to). According to PQ there are similar wires in the harness (Yellow/Blue) on the CTS and the other temp sensor and one of these wires sends a temp signal indicating to the ECU that is is safe to shift into OD. I think when I put them back together with shrinkwrap I got them mixed up...hence now no OD. Hopefully O'll be fixing that in the next day or so.

 

Here's the quote:

 

THE CONFUSION IT CREATES: http://starquest.i-x.net/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif Your ECI/COMPUTER sends a -GROUND- to the CTS (top of the "T") then sends it BACK to the ECI/COMPUTER by *INCREASING* THE GROUND AS THE MOTOR WARMS!

 

MORE CONFUSION... http://starquest.i-x.net/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif if somebody HACKED this harness!

You'll have SEVERAL YELLOW/GREEN wires in that harness...TOO many of them! http://starquest.i-x.net/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif(some are not used) Andddd you've got a YELLOW/BLUE in there tooo. http://starquest.i-x.net/images/smiles/icon_cry.gif (hard to tell the differance...look closer!) and get this....IT CHANGES COLORS MID-HARNESS! http://starquest.i-x.net/images/smiles/icon_eek.gif

 

Your test, ignition "on":

GROUND...for a breif moment, a YELLOW/GREEN wire as you OBSERVE the TEMP GAUGE in your dash. It should MAX-OUT the temp gauge...so MARK IT for that use!

 

NEXT... test another YELLOW/GREEN and WATCH THE GAUGE! Cause TWO OF THEM are ONE-IN-THE-SAME! (but you'll only need one)

 

NO REACTION (to the gauge) = CTS signal wire. Pin #6 INTO the ECI/computer...the feedback ground signal. ORRRRR it could be the yellow/green that tells the A/T relay it is warm enough to use overdrive.

 

If you'll CONTINUITY TEST each yellow/green with pin #6 at ECU harness at one end (blue connector)...you would *KNOW* that is a CTS signal wire. http://starquest.i-x.net/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif

 

May be something to look into. Just a thought.

 

-n8

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