Plugging cross drill holes in crank?

[Indiana]

What's in the box isn't always the same. They grab whatever they have available and it comes in lots and what's in stock, who bought out what old inventory etc.

 

Here's two of the "same" thing, one is an aftermarket part, one is a reboxed OEM (Taiho) part. You order two boxes and you might get two different parts. The aftermarket part is older while the OEM part is still dated 02/85

 

What was in YOUR box?

 

[lionbull]

This guy is good^^^^^^

[Metric-man]

Lets see if you know the other thing you can do that most don't. -besides using a different oil pump.

 

No its not to get rid of the oil squirters, balance shafts or hydraulic lifters and its not to use full groove main inserts.

 

Its simple.

It has no moving parts.

It takes no power to operate.

It causes an increase in power.

It saves you money.

Its better for your engine than not having it.

 

Indiana

is this what you meant ?

 

http://oi44.tinypic.com/15g8cpg.jpg

[Indiana]

No, I mean an oil separator that works. Honestly, that stock hose connection at the back of the valve cover is a very poor choice for the connection. They did what they could to put a few baffles on the inside but its not enough. I doubt its possible to get a vacuum in the crankcase with a stock oil separator or only connected to that port. I T'd that to the old turbo drain on the timing cover but oil is flying around in there and will come out that hole so you'll need to address that. I flipped a chevy valve cover breather upside down and put it right on that old hose barb so it would flow air and act as a prefilter. Off boost what it did get self drains. The one I used had a filter media layer and stainless mesh inside. The hoses after they were joined were increased to 1" inside diameter. Connected that way, no oil ever made it to the main separator filter. The drain to the oil pan off of it has a check valve so oil can't be pushed up the drain hose. Not just any check valve will work. The one I used came from Racor and it was designed for that purpose. The turbo drain was moved to the pan.

 

The separator I found out who made it. I got it from Lingenfelter but they take the labels off. Its a Mann Provent 200 and its hose connections are 1". Its not easy finding inexpensive hose that size either.

 

The check valve I took from a Racor CCV4500 kit I hadn't used yet.

Edited April 1, 2012 by Indiana

[quikconq]

Beat me over the head,,,I'm keepin my 20-50

[Dad]

What's in the box isn't always the same. They grab whatever they have available and it comes in lots and what's in stock, who bought out what old inventory etc.

 

Here's two of the "same" thing, one is an aftermarket part, one is a reboxed OEM (Taiho) part. You order two boxes and you might get two different parts. The aftermarket part is older while the OEM part is still dated 02/85

 

What was in YOUR box?

 

His box was ALL Federal Mogul brand bearings, only problem was they are all upper bearings, I would imagine there may be a set around that has all lower shells?

You make it sound like it's standard practice for suppliers to rebox, well it isn't a common practice anymore... it was done mostly in the part stores to rebox when they would change suppliers like going from federal to clevite, When you purchase direct from federal- you get their bearings. It would be a rare instance that another odd brand slips thru their system.

 

Dad

[Dad]

Blocking the oil pressure relief could cause the filter to explode and or/ undue stress on the oil pump gears, drive train, enough that a chain or shaft can break--- as for washing out the bearings?? I would like to see a documented defimition of that due to high oil pressure.

 

Dad

[Chad]

Blocking the oil pressure relief could cause the filter to explode and or/ undue stress on the oil pump gears, drive train, enough that a chain or shaft can break--- as for washing out the bearings?? I would like to see a documented defimition of that due to high oil pressure.

 

Dad

 

There have been several members over the years that have had their filters blow up, most with engine damage resulting. Most will lose their rear turbo oil seal rather quickly if the pressure is consistatntly high, and almost instnatly if they use an aftermarket domestic turbo.

 

These motors were not starved for oil by design, so adding more is a wasted of time and causes mroe problems if you actually throw more pressure or volume at it. We already have a special high flow pump from the factory, no need to do more than that. Those that have had bearing damage didn't need more pressure, they needed cleaner oil, more of it in the motor [underfilled], better driving practices, or better baffles in the pan. I have a crank on my bench that has 200K on it that is still in spec, the motor doesn't have a bad oiling design.

[Metric-man]

Blocking the oil pressure relief could cause the filter to explode and or/ undue stress on the oil pump gears, drive train, enough that a chain or shaft can break--- as for washing out the bearings?? I would like to see a documented defimition of that due to high oil pressure.

 

Dad

 

There have been several members over the years that have had their filters blow up, most with engine damage resulting. Most will lose their rear turbo oil seal rather quickly if the pressure is consistatntly high, and almost instnatly if they use an aftermarket domestic turbo.

 

These motors were not starved for oil by design, so adding more is a wasted of time and causes mroe problems if you actually throw more pressure or volume at it. We already have a special high flow pump from the factory, no need to do more than that. Those that have had bearing damage didn't need more pressure, they needed cleaner oil, more of it in the motor [underfilled], better driving practices, or better baffles in the pan. I have a crank on my bench that has 200K on it that is still in spec, the motor doesn't have a bad oiling design.

 

I had a build from a reputable shop that had the oil pump relief valve stick and the worst it did was blow the timing cover seal and spray oil around the turbo oil return oil filter and oil cooler lines, I thought it was return line but it was wafted while driving under load and made a mess. A person can learn a lot from someone else's mistakes, sometimes more than from your own.

 

Now that I'm an expert,

(What me make mistakes? Never!)

[Chad]

 

I had a build from a reputable shop that had the oil pump relief valve stick and the worst it did was blow the timing cover seal and spray oil around the turbo oil return oil filter and oil cooler lines,

 

How does excess oil presure make it's way past the timing cover seal? the pump gasket and timing cover gasket are not connected. The only way for that timing cover gasket to "blow" is if it were torn, defective, or under torqued, with excess crankcase pressure. A blown oil pump gasket woudl dump oil into the pan, not outside the motor.

[Metric-man]

I agree the crank seal is a lot stronger than any paper gasket same with an oil filter seal

The timing chain I would supose is the route that the pressure could have circulated.

Oil has a drain back into the crank case from the cylinder head at the back of the head also.

It wasn't much oil and it only escaped under pressure,and my oil filter had a by pass relief valve .

It took me a week or so to figure where it was coming from so I didn't believe it myself ,

how could I explain excessive pressure if it wasn't the pumps relief valve?

Total seal rings?

Edited May 9, 2012 by Metric-man

[The Rabbit1]

I agree the crank seal is a lot stronger than any paper gasket same with an oil filter seal

The timing chain I would supose is the route that the pressure could have circulated.

Oil has a drain back into the crank case from the cylinder head at the back of the head also.

It wasn't much oil and it only escaped under pressure,and my oil filter had a by pass relief valve .

It took me a week or so to figure where it was coming from so I didn't believe it myself ,

how could I explain excessive pressure if it wasn't the pumps relief valve?

Total seal rings?

were u running a pcv/vac system? if no crankcase vacuum then that would explain how you blew that seal

[Metric-man]

The shop that rebuilt it was into superstock 1/4 mile monsters, in the begining I asked them to use total seal rings, but I left it up to their discretion, after all it was a daily driver and I put 2000 or so miles on it before it started this leak.

It had stock evap system nothing was deleted.

I haven't taken the time to tear it down to see the rings, it is sitting in the corner of the garage.

If it had total seals then I could see it blowing the paper gasket but I think the tech at the dealership sold back my new oil pump and used the old one.

Of course that's before I went to school for four years and learned to do it myself.

Its not that people are dishonest it's just that they are lazy and want to take short cuts or save money .

The guy had a few kids and was a good tech but sort of a sob story, I never fall for sob stories any more.