Gamble88 Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Coming soon to a engine bay near you.I'm buying a short block, going to swap my head over. I need to make a check list of everything so I don't forget. New injectors + oringnew fuel filternew throttle body rebuild kitnew coolant temp sensorshort blockheadgasket kitusing my old head and headstuds which don't have many miles on them. Replace brittle cracked,/broke tail vacuum linesRebuild throttle bodyRemove egr crap (link on how to)Coolant and oil change. Scrub engine bay cleansame clutch/flywheelorder new flywheel bolts After it's running: (in no particular order)gm maf installhard pipesbigger turborotors/padssuspensionpaint job I have never pulled one of these before and never did a TBI car so I'm a little nervous. Don't want to pull it out and find out I can't figure out where a stupid vacuum line or bolt or plug goes so I want to make a check list and make sure i got it down right in my mind and on paper before I begin. Where are good places to lift the engine from? I don't remember seeing any lift points on the motor. Do you have to get under the car to remove anything? I've only pulled fwd/awd cars. When the motor is out should I do anything else in the bay? Anything with the power steering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munkee Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 ARP head studs, or at the least new stock bolts. Its not a matter of how many miles are on them, once you torque them down once they can't be reused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 ARP head studs, or at the least new stock bolts. Its not a matter of how many miles are on them, once you torque them down once they can't be reused.Stockers are not torque to yeild so they will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunStreaker Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I would go with ARP studs anyway best 100 dollars I ever spent. Take pictures of all the vaccum lines and the engine bay. Label everything you can. Atleast replace the exahaust valve seals those get hard and brittle. Dont get the headgasket kit, get the Felpro Permatorque headgasket which is a diff one then what comes in the kit. Also the felpro exhaust gasket is poo, get one from DAD. You are also not gonna want to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds if you do, you will need to order new studs and bolts. Also get metal collar clips for hoses and replace as many spring clips as you can. Maybe do a balance shaft delete. Also you are going to want to flush the coolant not just change it. Do an ABS delete while you have room to work. Get rid of the charcoal canister under the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Any links on how to remove the canister, egr, and abs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I'd reuse the Mitsu head bolts too. Unless this is a new short block, I'd replace every engine coolant hose shown on FSM page 7-22. Remove & throughly flush out the engine oil cooler and it's oil supply and return lines with diesel fuel or kerosene. Ya might want to also replace the "rubber" jumper lines with new cuz they are known to leak. You'll need to replace the oil lines'4 special washer seals - Mitsu PN MB033054. Ya might want to remove the PS system HP hose assembly and have the hose replaced, while still using the hose fittings, if it's still the original factory one. This is because it's darn near impossible to remove it with the engine in the engine hose if it starts weeping ATF. Unless the engine mounts have been recently replaced with new ones I'd replace 'em. I'd also check the tranny rear mount for cracking in the rubber too. Check and if needed clean out the turbo coolant lines banjo bolts. You might also want to completely disassemble and clean out the dizzy. It probably still has the crusty factory grease inside of it. Check the FI injector clips for a tight fit to the injector and if the metal male & female terminals are clean. Also label everything you disconnect from the engine so you know what goes where when you are installing 'em after you drop in the new short block. Check the "rubber" vacuum tubing going to the brake booster from the intake manifold runner for cracks holes or degradation. It's notorious for dry rotting from engine heat. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Any links on how to remove the canister, egr, and abs? Why do you want to remove: EGR - the engine will idle like crap when you first start it and shes cold if you remove it. ABS - if it's working leave it in. For removing this stuff, down load the FSM and start reading it. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I would go with ARP studs anyway best 100 dollars I ever spent. If you're talking about this motor, that's the worst 100 dollars you ever spent cause they are not needed if you have OEM bolts. You can use those over and over and over again. ARP makes bolt for engine with bolts that stretch and are to be used only once and for those motor with small diameter fasteners that were on non turbo motors people put turbos on that need decent bolts. We already HAVE very good reuseagle head and main cap bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Ya might want to remove the PS system HP hose assembly and have the hose replaced,Yes and they are inexpensive at parts stores, they are down to $20-25. The reason is that they are flared tubes and people overtighten the fitting at the pump then tighten again to stop them leaking and the ends crack, the tube blows out and so does all the fluid. Every time that's removed unless it seats back exactly the same way it will have to be mashed enough so it won't leak and its just a piece of tin tubing with the end folded over. They NEED a reinforcement bracket from the pump to just above at the line to stop vibrations from causing them so much stress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Anyone got a part number or pic so I have an idea of what you are talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 OEM head bolts have two raised lines on the head, the main bolts have a little P looking symbol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I meant for the hose. I'm having second thoughts about a swap. Money I can use for a bike. IDK. i change my mind every few minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 Go to Autozone.com. look up your car and find the power steering hose and click on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted March 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 Only 1 hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 (edited) Go to my site, look down the list on the right side until you see Power Steering Hose Replacement, click that and you'll see what you end up with and what you may have to do to the clamps. http://www.b2600turbo.com/ Edited March 17, 2012 by Indiana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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