gottraction Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Hey guys im trying to install some st lowering springs for my 87 conquest. i did the front just fine but cannot figure out how much i have to take apart for the rears. i have undone the 3 top bolts for the strut housing and the 2 big 17s that go through the struts and the long bolt that drives through it. do i have to take out the huge control arm bolt for them to be able to fall out? any pics would be great! thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Hey guys im trying to install some st lowering springs for my 87 conquest. i did the front just fine but cannot figure out how much i have to take apart for the rears. i have undone the 3 top bolts for the strut housing and the 2 big 17s that go through the struts and the long bolt that drives through it. do i have to take out the huge control arm bolt for them to be able to fall out? any pics would be great! thanks Pull the struts out per the FSM and install the new springs. The only thing...."And you might have already seen this with the fronts", is Your camber setting. Anytime you lower your car below stock, Negative camber comes into play.Download the Factory Service Manual here: http://www.starquestgarage.com Good Luck,Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) thanks Edited December 24, 2011 by gottraction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 well i still cant get it out. the fsm is showing me taking the whole control arm set up off and i swear there has to be less amount of bolts. the rear is suppose to be easier than the front and its not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Did you take out the 12mm in the center under the axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 There are the three nuts on the strut mount, the two bolts on the strut body holding it to the hub and the bolt in the back of the hub that acts like a clamp. You must completely remove the bolt at the back of the hub and not just loosen it. Once the strut is out it will become very obvious. Oh, and dont forget to undo the brake lines from the strut... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) There are the three nuts on the strut mount, the two bolts on the strut body holding it to the hub and the bolt in the back of the hub that acts like a clamp. You must completely remove the bolt at the back of the hub and not just loosen it. Once the strut is out it will become very obvious. Oh, and dont forget to undo the brake lines from the strut... Agreed!!! You will also need a crowbar, hammer and a large regular screwdriver. The screwdriver and hammer are to open up the clamp that holds the bottom of the strut housing. The crowbar is to lower the Control Arm assembly so the bottom of the strut comes loose from the clamp. The best way to do it is from the bottom up. Disconnect the top strut bolts last. When you look in the FSM, look here: Rear Suspension-Strut Assembly. Strut Assembly-Removal and Installation. P.S. USE JACK STANDS Bill Edited December 24, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 yep i undid the 12mm. i was finally able to get it out by taking out that giant bolt. but i left the other part of the control arm bolted up. not im trying to get it put back together and thats a big no go. i cant line up the strut housing part to the control arm because of the spring and half shaft. im pretty sure my half shaft is destroyed by getting so frustrated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 yep i undid the 12mm. i was finally able to get it out by taking out that giant bolt. but i left the other part of the control arm bolted up. not im trying to get it put back together and thats a big no go. i cant line up the strut housing part to the control arm because of the spring and half shaft. im pretty sure my half shaft is destroyed by getting so frustrated just take it out... put it back when your done.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Leave it all together, put the bottom of the strut in the hub and then pull the whole works down to get the top in position. In other words do the bottom and then the top. You can "bounce" it under the fender and then a couple more times to get it in position. Try to get the studs on teh mount clocked close then reach your hand up and twist it till they pop in the holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 yep i did that. finally got it back together. went to do the other side and i knew my cv boot had a cut in it. went to unbolt it all and the cv axle literally pulled out of the boot completely. should have just left the damn car alone!! smh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 No, it was good you went as far as finding the shaft joint and rubber problem.The ST's are a very good spring with a progressive rate depending on how much force is on them. The car should handle much better. They ride nice, but stiffen up fast when you need them to. Mine does. Problem is, that it will most likely sit higher in the front now. You may need to cut some coil out of the fronts. I haven't done mine yet as far as bringing the front down, but it shouldn't be too hard. The ST's are designed for all of the factory items to be installed in the engine bay. Like a full cat w/2ndry air box and tube, all AC parts, etc... I've seen some post that the ST's are not progressive, but mine definitely have the rate change. A suspension expert told me they were progressive too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Ignoring ripped boots will only compound your problem. Replacing them is not very difficult. You have to be honest with yourself, this is par for the course with a 20 year old car and if it seems like too much work now, get out while your ahead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 yea i already ordered a replacement axle. i own other cars that are older this this car and requires less major work. 1985 gsl-se rx7. its just nuts how many engine/interior issues this car has Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Again, its pretty normal for these cars. I believe it was one of the reasons they stayed obscure. Most of it is probably neglect throughout the years though. 4-bolt axle? I thought Ive been reading the only axles available for "ordering" are for the non-intercooled flatties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) Again, its pretty normal for these cars. I believe it was one of the reasons they stayed obscure. Most of it is probably neglect throughout the years though. 4-bolt axle? I thought Ive been reading the only axles available for "ordering" are for the non-intercooled flatties. I ran over a 2x4 one day in the dark. It split my DOJ Boot on the passenger side. Crap happens Took $15.00 for a new boot,grease,boot clamps and about 1 hour of my time to fix it. Yes, as long as I had to remove the halfshaft to replace the boot, might as well disassemble and re-grease the DOJ joint. Retaining clamp tools,a ratchet with sockets and a crowbar are PRICELESS, along with a low profile floor jack, jack stands and a impact gun. Bill Edited December 28, 2011 by Caliber308 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 yea i ordered the non intercooled one not knowing. its going to be more of a pain to return so im going to try and make it fit. i heard it has been ran on some cars. hell i see a small slight in my other axle so it looks like i will be rebuilding one before its over anyway! Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted December 31, 2011 Report Share Posted December 31, 2011 making things "fit" will just make it worse. buy the boots and replace them, less headache now and later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottraction Posted January 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 like i said before mine where beyond repair. when i pulled it out i even lost a bearing! i have the new non intercooled one in now and havent had any issues out of it. BUT the st springs sick low in the back and high in the front! smh.. i didnt want to cut it even before i put it on cause i wasnt sure of what it would look like on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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