sammi_curr72 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Got the '83 FRP hood from mookeeh, and got some NRG carbon hood pin (zeus lock type). Question is, where would be the best place to mount the bolts at? I was thinking where the stock hood bumpers are, but upon inspecting where I'd have to drill, that area under the hood is curved. I saw some pics of the hood pins just to the inside of the headlights, but wasn't sure if those were "real" or not. Any input? ~Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 The pins/stud themselves?? Core support. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammi_curr72 Posted September 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 The pins/stud themselves?? Core support. -RobertAhhhh... so just to the inside of the headlights. I was worried about catching air on the sides, but thanks for input, Robert! Body work is done, everything is primered.. now just to tweak the engine, wire a few more gauges, and she's painted and DONE! w00t ~Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Put them in the 1970's where you found them.... The stock latch can mount in the oe location even a cf mk1 hood.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killtodie Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 I would recommend using the stock latch with a CF. I've seen too many CF hoods that have a bump in the middle that are secured with pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 Put them in your toolbox, or the hatch, or the mail back to the seller, just not in the hood. My 88's living proof that occasionally somebody forgets to put the pins back in and drives away. I've got nasty creases in my cowl on each side and the hinges partially ripped out of their pockets from the thing blowing back in the breexe. And that cowl piece is a MAJOR PITA to change. Of course a CF hood would likely not do that kind of damage. It'd probably just snap into pieces when it hit the roff of the car. Mount the stock latch assembly and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 I know all too well what happens when hood pins let loose. I had the top dollar pins and everything- the ones that had a lock built into them and everything. If the hood will let the OEM latch mount to it, then throw those pins in the trash... http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/DSCF0001~2.JPGhttp://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/DSCF0002~1.JPGhttp://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/DSCF0003~2.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammi_curr72 Posted September 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 I know all too well what happens when hood pins let loose. I had the top dollar pins and everything- the ones that had a lock built into them and everything. If the hood will let the OEM latch mount to it, then throw those pins in the trash... http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/DSCF0001~2.JPGhttp://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/DSCF0002~1.JPGhttp://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10087/DSCF0003~2.JPGThanks for the input, Burton! I was looking at your pics, and the hood pin assembly you have in your pics is EXACTLY what I have for my setup. Looks like I'm drilling the center hole for the hood latch.. (has the two mount screw holes already there, just not the middle bolt assembly hole). After spending all this time/energy on body work and such, last thing I want is all that damage and have to plug away at it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 Thanks for posting the pics Burton. My damage isn't quite that bad, might even be able to fix my cowl. This oughta be a sticky for anybody wanting to install pins on any kind of street car.Sammi, you'll be much safer with the factory latch assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted September 20, 2011 Report Share Posted September 20, 2011 If the hood pins are not the super trick boy ricer ones and are installed properly, they will never come loose and cause a problem like that. Most aftermarket carbon fiber and fiberglass hood manufacturers recommend using hood pins but also specify their hoods as "Off-Road" use only. I have been fitting and installing hood pins on race cars for over 15 years, that go way faster than any of you guys ever will on the street or strip and have never had any problem like that. Maybe it has more to do with the style of hood pins or the way they are mounted than the fact that its just hood pins holding your hood closed. Just my thoughts on the subject. Nothing wrong with using the stock latch assembly, but I would definately use a back up hood pins setup as I have seen the stock latch assembly pull out of C/F and F/G hoods. BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I suppose I should have stated better what I was getting at... The standard style hood pin that just has a clip that clips thru the hole on the pin, like they use in NASCAR, those work great. The ones that the OP stated he has with the Zues lock or barrel lock or whatever they're called are crap. That's the style that I had on my car in the pics above. One side rattled loose going down the track at 80, which got air under that corner and caused the other side to tilt a little and pop loose. Hood slapped the windshield and the roof, then the passenger side hinge popped loose, so the hood started slapping the driver's side of the car until the driver's hinge let loose. The walk of shame carring the hood back to the pits was quite the bummer. On a positive note, there was a group home for mentally handicaped adults who were on a field trip to the track. A couple of them came up to me and said things like "Your car is fast! It blew the hood off!" At least I didn't look like an idiot to everyone there. I was kind of amaZed about how everything fared. The impact of the hood hitting the roof, knocked the dome light assembly off, yet didn't even crack the windshield. The fiberglass hood was actually saveable. I fixed the cracks, none of which were major, but all the mounting holes were done for. I sold it to someone who was using 4 standard hood pins and didn't need the hinges hooked up. I will say this, if the CF/FG hood you are using does not have metal plates imbedded in the substrate with holes tapped for the latch and hinge hardware, then be carefull. If the screws are threaded into the CF/FG itself, those will strip out in a heartbeat. I always use steel plates in my hoods because I've even seen aluminum plates get stripped out pretty easy. So in summary... Standard style hood pins= good, ones that lock with the little round key= junk. Also, carbon fiber and fiberglass do not produce good tapped hardware holes, if there's no threaded plates, get some standard style hood pins. Edited September 21, 2011 by Burton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Yes Burton, thats exactly what I was saying. I have seen hoods where the threaded holes are just threaded inserts set into the composite and werent actually a plate molded into the material. Yes, they are steel threaded inserts but they pulled right out of the hood, because they didnt really have much to hang onto. Unless you know for a fact what you are dealing with, use old school standard hood pins. If you dont wanna run the big 1/2" thick pins with a 2" chrome plate like what you can get at your local parts store, I can post up some info on where to get the smaller style we run on our race cars. They are 3/8" stainless pins with stainless clips and plates. There are lengths available from 2" up to 5" I think. A complete kit might cost $25 or $30 but that is cheap insurance on your freshly painted car. I will be running them on my car by the time its painted and Im still running a steel hood. BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 i thought about adding hood pins to mine, i have a fiberglass mookeeh, and the only reason for the pins is added secuirty.. i know these hoods were made as cheap as possible, and dont know how well the threaded bolt holes are made into the hood. if i were to use hoodpins i would leave the stock latch as well. the pins would be for security. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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