franco101 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I don't believe there was any detonation Indiana. However you might be on to something about the retorque. First I didn't use any moly lube on the re torque . I use 10-30 on my car and thought the oil on the threads would be good enough, so maybe they weren't. Also I have a 3/8 and 1/2" torque wrenches that I bought specifically to do the re torques. my 3/8 only goes up to 100. But I had to use a small extension as I could not get the socket in the head without it. I do know an extension can throw off the numbers also. Again it was a 3" extension. I have the new arp's in a box already. If I don't use them now but find out later I need to , can I replace them one at a time without removing the head again? Also I did take pics with my phone and can email them to you if you wouldn't mind posting them for me. This way we can all look to see if your theory could be correct. Which may be. Franco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 How much boost were you giving the engine when this happened? Also, What kind of Head Gasket were you using? I know I could go back and read all three pages on this post to find out but it is easier to just ask you now. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franco101 Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 18 lbs. Ajusa mls gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 18 lbs. Ajusa mls gasket I can't understand why it didn't hold up? I have boosted my engine: Ajusa MLS and ARP Headstuds to 7000 rpms at 20 psi boost. Have you checked the Cylinder Head and Block for true? Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 You have to pull the head your gasket is compromised and the coating burned and ruined where it blew. ARPs are 12pt 14mm arwn't they? Sears has deep sockets for that also a medium lenght socket. The friction on the fasteners is on the head where it rotates against the non moving surface and you'll have to relube under the nut is all. The threads will have any lube that was there before still present trapped between the threads and will move around on the top when you loosen the nut. The stud isn't supposed to turn you may want to index those so you'll know they didn't move. The threads don't make full contact, only make contact with one side and ARP has some pretty pictures of that on their site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traps Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 This was an awesome post guys good input as I will be having some work done soon on the car entailing the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franco101 Posted October 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 I have removed the head and it is in a shop getting decked and getting new valves with a 4 angle valve job as well as port matching intake and removing some sharp material that machinist I paid a few years ago failed to do.( Live and learn). Also we learned that my cam and rockers are toast. Didn't know ab out zinc additive you should put in with new cam.. Am thinking about a scneider 292. Can I run it with my setup? I have been re reading Chiplee's post on running it. So Indiana you say to get a 12 point deep socket from Sears as opposed to using a 3" extension correct? Franco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Those medium length sockets are about 2" but you can't clear the rockers and the back two are harder to get in one sweep so you do need some type of extension I'd just use the socket. I don't think your extension being that short with that little bit of torque is twisting that much but you're trying to be as consistent as possible so not using another piece you don't need isn't contributing to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 (edited) The ARPs didn't stretch, the gasket just blew from either detonation or the gasket wasn't consistently torqued down and if you aren't consistent and precise with those studs they can come loose. You DO NOT need new ARP studs. What lubricant was under the nut when you tightened those down to 100ftlbs and if you did a retorque, did you loosen up one at a time completely and relube the nut? If you didn't all you did was just loosen up the head and caused this problem. It wasn't the first time and won't be the last. See why I kept harassing you this summer when I did mine. Let's just see if I blow mine when I get it runnin and boostin.Should boost to 30psi just to see. Take one for the team Edited October 25, 2011 by lionbull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 See why I kept harassing you this summer when I did mine. Let's just see if I blow mine when I get it runnin and boostin.Should boost to 30psi just to see. Take one for the teamI don't remember, had yours came loose? Surely you have that back together by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) I just used White Engine Assembly Lube on my ARP head studs (Torqued to ARPs recommended specs. 90 ft. lbs. in three steps: 70ft.lbs, 80 ft.lbs. and final torque to 90 ft.lbs. in the normal tightening sequence. "See the FSM for the tightening sequence information".) Still running at 7000 rpms and 20 psi boost. I really feel that everyone that replaces a Head gasket, does a Cylinder Head change or for that matter, a engine rebuild needs to seriously consider having the Cylinder Head and the Block checked for true. If you don't...Problems can occur with the Head Gasket. I installed a brand new (out of the box) Marnal AMC Cylinder head on my engine rebuild. Did I have it, and the Block checked tor true? You bet your a.. I did. Bill Edited October 26, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted October 26, 2011 Report Share Posted October 26, 2011 I don't remember, had yours came loose? Surely you have that back together by now. Still got the PM'sI was going to reply with just what you said about the service manual not actually tell you if to torque dry or with lube etc. Same thing with the stock bolts vs arps. I figured you would chime in to give a more robust response as you normally do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8687tsiwidebody Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 The reason coolant is blowing out at higher boost is the way your car is tuned. Your cReating so much heat that the coolant starts boiling around the cylinders causing it to gush out. It's not a blown head gasket or any other gasket causing this. Better ignition and fuel tuning will stop that. This is often mis diagnosed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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