DzNutz Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Don't forget to check your boost retards!! -Robert Most definantly! Use a small compressor. Mine works GGGGRRRREAT!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I've taken the pictures. Now I've just got to find the time to sit down, and write out the directions and explanations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Thanks for this idea/thread. I didn't really think about this while making sure my DD stays in good health, so next weekend when I change my exhaust manifold and some other stuff I'm going to regrease/clean my dist. Called the dealer and ordered a new pick-up coil to replace mine with. Pretty sure mine's ok but without testing it, and it only costing like 15 bucks, I figured I'd go ahead and change it with the cap seal. Guess I need to do pretty much everything in the I-X site. Oh well, gotta love em Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I'm guessing the entire distributor needs to be removed for this procedure? Will there be a list of tools, parts and whatever lube/grease we need? Sounds like this will be useful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasTieaga Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 (edited) I was gunna b*tch out and just buy another one but now that I get a "how to" guide I think I'll just do it myself. Things with little parts scare me when I start tearing them apart. I've been told I have sausage fingers lol. Edited January 7, 2011 by TexasTieaga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Don't worry fellas. Now, I personally, do not know how to "test" the Pickup Coils. But, I'm sure somebody can shed some light on that matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf88 Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 The FSM has detailed instructions for testing the pickup coil. Very easy to do. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Senders%20Sensors/SS-35.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 Thanks Rabbit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Don't forget to check your boost retards!! -Robert One comma away from being offensive, lol...Funny how punctuation changes things. Good call, I should probably put my rebuilt distributor in there in the spring when I pull the cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDodson Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 where can i send my distributor? i have a few spare ones I could get done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 well i started taking mine apart last night, and i noticed that one of my springs for the fly weights is loos, as in it slides forward and backward without the spring compressing, like it's stretched...is that how it's supposed to be? i can't imagine so. If that is bad, where would I get a new one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 There is some play in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 for the lubricant, could i possibly use white lithium grease or just bearing packing grease? we have this grease at work called Super Lube aswell, i think it's just silicone grease. would that work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Paul, if you like you can send me your distributor and I will rebuild it for you. I am about halfway complete with the how-to write up on how to do it yourself but if any of you are uncomfortable doing so, i'd be more than glad to do it for you. I think white lithium grease should be more than sufficient. I personally use black chassis grease, the stuff you pack into balljoints and tie rod ends. It's thin enough to where it will not be too gummy for the small parts to function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 And yes, one of the springs should be looser fitting than the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 sounds like a plan=) i read through the How To and know exactly what to do. It doesn't seem very hard at all. You just have to be careful of small parts, like the e-clips and that washer. Now if the main seal for the shaft is bad, could i get it at an auto store, or would i have to order from mitsubishi? and could the bearing for my shaft possibly be shot? just thinking ahead=D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 Seal and bearing are dealer parts.if there isn't oil up in the rotor area then they are more then likely good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 i would still replace the seal. Its more than 20 years old. It is only a matter of time before it wll give up the fight. Why not replace it ow while you've got it apart? I have seals incase Mitsubishi cannot get one. The bearing, while it is possible for failure, as would be the case for any bearing, but I've never seen one fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I'm taking mine apart right now=) but the silicone grease I have should work correct? here's a link: http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-multipurpose-grease-ez-49.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I'm taking mine apart right now=) but the silicone grease I have should work correct? here's a link: http://www.super-lub...rease-ez-49.htm Should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I ran into a problem. i go to check my mechanical advance by turning my rotor clockwise, and i can keep going and going and going, no stop or anything.It's supposed to stop and then snap back correct.....what am I supposed to do? Mine is off an 86 if that says anything, darn oddball=P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 your supposed to take it apart and inspect it and find out why it is broken and what is broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 lol well I've never done a distributor before or know where the mechanical advance is or what it looks like=P by looking at the how to, would it be possible that the teeth are eaten off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) I ran into a problem. i go to check my mechanical advance by turning my rotor clockwise, and i can keep going and going and going, no stop or anything.It's supposed to stop and then snap back correct.....what am I supposed to do? Mine is off an 86 if that says anything, darn oddball=P Mechanical advance is the whole top piece under the rotor. http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/DzG54BNutz/RMSQ/Dizzy%20Rebuild/3.jpg with the springs and weights... http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/DzG54BNutz/RMSQ/Dizzy%20Rebuild/5.jpg When checking be sure to hold the heli gear on the bottom from turning. This pin in this slot should keep it from rotating too far http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q272/DzG54BNutz/RMSQ/Dizzy%20Rebuild/9.jpg Edited January 13, 2011 by DzNutz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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