BADBAJA Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 This is the rattle sound I get from the engine only at aCertain rpm. It sounds like everything else is ok. Exhaust is not done so it's loud I just replaced the timing chain and do not have any balance shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 when you did the BSE did you file down that nub of the timing cover behind the water pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 Oh my. It's most likely a lifter that hasn't pumped up. Search on here for the procedure to clean, bleed, and prime them. It sort of sounds like rod knock... but... hopefully it's not. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 It had been rubbing on that nub but I did not know you were supposed to grind it all the way off. I did not do the bse so I was not aware. Does it have to be ground down totally flat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 It had been rubbing on that nub but I did not know you were supposed to grind it all the way off. I did not do the bse so I was not aware. Does it have to be ground down totally flat?oh, i presumed when you said you replaced chain and dont have BS i thought you did the BSE, not all the way flat just dround slanted from pics ive seen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 My neighbor who likes to tinker with small engines thinksThat if the chain was rubbing that it would be a faster buzzing sound. He said it seems to be in time with a cylinder firing. We noticed it does it under harder acceleration and under a load like driving up the roadRetarded the timing and it seems less but still there. Advance the timing and it gets LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Looks pretty, but sounds pretty bad. Besides what "sounds" like an exhaust leak around the manifold area, I suspect hydraulic lifters and/or lousy timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Small exhaust leak. How do yu prime he lifters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieHARDmitsu. Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 From the video it looks like if you hold the revs a constant point you hardly hear it. As soon as you add a little load, it knocked. Sounds like a rod knock, maybe from #3 or #2 cyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 It does only rattle under load it seems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 It does only rattle under load it seems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 ... ummm ... I hate to say it ... but that doesn't sound like top end noise to me. I have heard collapsed lifters before and they didn't sound like that. And the lifters were constant once they failed. Grab a piece of hose and hold one end to your ear while moving the other around the engine. You should be able to find a spot where it's loudest. Report back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 when you did the BSE did you file down that nub of the timing cover behind the water pump? ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 ??? Thank God I'm not the only one who thought that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 If you think its lifters all you have to do is take off the valve cover and mash the end of the rocker arm when the cam lobe for that rocker is on its base and the rocker shouldn't mash down. Sounds like rod knock to me, sound is too low pitch and rod knock happens under load starts out you can hear it at certain rpms then gets worse. Point is, when its at this earlier stage all you do is pull the pan and rod caps and replace all the bearings. Why did you put on a timing chain? What else did you do? You had the pan off and didn't look at the bearings while it was off? Bearings are cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 (edited) Thank God I'm not the only one who thought that!nvm i remembered frmo S.O.S wrong Edited November 5, 2010 by Skullzaflare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 The cover I did NOT grind the whole nub off just some of it at a angle. I did not see any fresh rub marks but I imagine a bunch of fine pieces of fine aluminum dust was in the oil. I have changed the oil 3 times. It does sound like a rod knock to me as well. I am just hoping for the best and preparing for the worst Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Just pull the pan off and change the bearings its not hard. Inspect the mains also. You can use one of the old inserts to push the upper mains out too:http://www.b2600turbo.com/changing_rod_bearings.htm and align the #3 cap too since its your thrust surface:http://www.b2600turbo.com/thrust_bearings.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 Why do you grind down anything on the timing cover...???? -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 Well after searching through 8 plus pages of rod knock issues just to educateMyself some more on this issue. Well I read where you can pull the ug wires tonarrow down the culprit. Sure enough I pull #1 plug wire and no knock under load. Try #2 (putting plug wire #1 back on) and the knock comes back. I try it again and sameknock. So it would seem the knock is coming from #1. More often than not it's that connecting rod on the big end. Now I have NOT gone crazy driving this thing except out the drive way and back down. It only knocks under load. I know a bunch of posts have said to just swap bearings. Is this a ok method? I am of coarse going to check them over as close as possible to look and feel for out of roundness. Is there and tools while the engine is in the car to check the roundness? I have calipers but no mic that large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 More info on this engine needed. Did you just rebuild it recently?? If you did recently rebuild it, and it's knocking... you should pull the engine and do a full inspection. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 8, 2010 Report Share Posted November 8, 2010 (edited) If it just started you can replace the bearing it will be fine. Stop driving it, do not run it. Don't change just one, do them ALL. The crank is hardened, you aren't going to hurt it from what you did and the rod isn't so soft that it won't still be round. You run it to keep hearing this noise its getting worse and pumping more crap thorugh the oil. You need to remove and dump out the oil cooler too. Hot soapy water will remove the debris from the pan under the baffles, solvents will not. If you find you have a balance shaft chain when you pull the pan off then you need to eliminate those too. The #1 main bearing feeds the #1 rod and the upper balance shaft so when you lose oil pressure it flows down the main galley to #1/2/3/4/5 etc and while 2/4/5 feed a rod bearing too, its only #1 that also feeds the balance shaft so it takes longer to pressurize and this is the problem that causes the shafts rear bearing to fail when it should have got oil from the main galley not where they put it. If you run out of oil breifly its the #1 that it goes to first so its the one that gets the air bubbles while the rest of the oil in the galley and block remain without aerated oil and its common for the #1 rod bearing to knock before the rest and when ignored they all end up knocking then you get to tear the motor all apart and your head gets ruined. (of course you can change this oiling path if you want to) Edited November 8, 2010 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2010 #1 spun for sure.. #2 looks to be on way out. getting ready for 3 and 4 but will swap them all. No major scarring so gonna grab some soft emery cloth and clean the parts. What can I use to clean off the crank and parts after emery cloth treatment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2010 Not sure the size of the bearing also. It reads AG 0.25 C4466 AM What does this mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BADBAJA Posted November 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2010 http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k146/mazda_6t9/6527761d.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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