oil pump number and relief spring

[Bill R]

I am rebuilding my motor and ready to put the oil pump on... the numbers on top are different???my old one has a Chinese symbol and a -1. Mt new one has the same symbol and a -2. any difference? also I have a parts car and when I took apart the oil pump I found a screw in the top of the relief spring under the big screw.Any reason for this????thanks

[MidMoTSI]

I'm assuming your using a new OEM oil pump, MD069800. Section 9a, page 9a-114 has an exploded view of the internals.

 

http://www.starquestgarage.com/partsloc/conquest/1988/88_conquest_partsloc_nav.html

 

Prior to starting, make sure you prime the oil system. See the FAQ forum.

 

On both of my rebuilds, before reconnecting the turbo oil feed line, I squirted oil into the turbo, spun the shaft by hand to ensure the bearings were lubed.

Edited July 22, 2010 by MidMoTSI

[Indiana]

Pictures would help but shimming the relief valve so that is pukes oil back to the pan later isn't a good idea that's a bad one, there is already too much oil sucking from the pan at higher rpms that just makes it happen lower.

 

As long as the pump you used had the backing plate with no hole in it at the bottom it won't matter and I'll assume its the front pickup tube pump like you had right?

 

Here's some different brand pumps and pictures:

http://www.b2600turbo.com/Oil%20Pumps.htm

[Tim_C.]

I normally like to shim the relief valve spring in the pump just a little with a flatwasher that fits perfectly into the large hex fitting. it is good to do on old stock engines where you are just replacing the pump, or rebuilds that dont involve turning the crank main or rod journals. It will give you about a 20PSI pressure increase. It can work on rebbuilds where the crank was turned too, but the clearances need to be close to stock to get good results from it. I would not put a screw in there though. That sounds like it would almost block the relief hole, and you don't want to do that.