Jump to content

car sounds like its missing bad


smallblock12
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just put brand new injectors in it hoping to fix the problem. It all stock. The only gauge that won't work is the coolant and the car will rev some but sputters bad and sounds like its firing on 2 cylinders. Anything I should check first. Has new plugs wires dizzy cap and button.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should be getting a set of NEW OEM replacment injectors on monday from brianpaul Ill let you kno how that goes. Mine deff arent opening and closing smoothly. It reeks of fuel the car sucks running not in boost misfiring constant popping out the exhaust. Extremely hard to start sometimes. Just like I have read and he had told me buying used stock inj or having them cleaned is a lost cause considering any injector you find will have most likely at least 100k on them. And you gotta remember these cars run off of one injector 80% of the time. My car idles and runs like butt right now except under boost even then its rich and I replaced all ignition parts. Make sure your timing is correct both crank and cam line up correctly and also check that you distibutor isnt any teeth off. Theres a post on here somewhere that should how it should look while its into the cam gear. Make sure you have the correct ngk plugs 1 step colder and ngk wires are always good.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

jeff have you tried indexing the dizzy all the way forward or all the way back. if it runs better one way or the other then dizzy is probably a tooth off.

 

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_pic2-5.jpg

Edited by cyberquest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

now the number of things that can cause your problem gets into near 100 area,, what you do is go back to the basics,, check out each system completely and repair any thing you find out of specs,, but before doing any thing read the start of the fuel chaptor ,on how this system works ,, once you read and understand this chaptor your more then 1/2 way home finding your problem

 

don't over compicate the problem,, understand how the system works and you'l have a darn good idea what your problem is,,BUT do not stop there,, take time to test and check each sub sytem of the fuel inj system,, covering all the bases is the only way to make sure the system is in 100% shape

 

this is not a huge task,, it won't take more then 2-3 hours to cover the entire system and all sub systems but you must do it in an orderly fashion , but if you do not know what does what you will have no chance of ever fixing the system

 

as for the TPS, mps system test and adjut,, theone thing that stumps every one untillt hey learn the same adjustment does two diff things,, with the ISC connect'd your adjusting of the SAS changes the voltage the ecu see's at idle,, but once the ISC is unplug'd the ajustment screw changes the actual idle position ,because the ISC is not longer correcting for any adjustment made by the screw so it changes the throddle lever idle position , with out changeing the voltage reading

 

this also means if the ISC does not run,, the procedure can not be done untill after the reason for the ISC motor not runing is repair'd ,,and you do not skip ahead durring the adjustment procedures,, they must be done in order

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...