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CLUTCH PROBLEM


JayR_NYC
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HEY..I HAVE THIS PROBLEM...I PUT A NEW MASTER CYLINDER AND SLAVE CYLINDER...AND STILL THE TRANNY WONT GO IN GEAR WHEN THE CAR IS ON....GOES IN GEAR OFF...WE PUMP THE s*** OUT OF THE CLUTCH SYSTEM IN SO MANY WAYS...AND STILL WONT GO IN GEAR...BUT 2 FIND OUT THAT MY ACT PRESSURE PLATE HAS NO PRESSURE...U CAN SEE ON THE PLATE THAT ONE SIDE OF THE TEETHs R LOWER IN PRESSURE...THE CENTER RING IS NOT EVEN ALL AROUND...WAT CAN CAUSE THE PRESSURE PLATE NOT HAVE PRESSURE IF ITS NEW...

THANX

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Have you verified that the clutch disc is installed properly? Usually the disc has to face a certain way, also when the disc is installed it needs aligned with a clutch alignment tool. It could also be that the clutch installed is WRONG.

 

Also, have you verified that the clutch fork is working properly? There are alot of variables to look into.

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Have you verified that the clutch disc is installed properly? Usually the disc has to face a certain way, also when the disc is installed it needs aligned with a clutch alignment tool. It could also be that the clutch installed is WRONG.

 

Also, have you verified that the clutch fork is working properly? There are alot of variables to look into.

 

WATS THE CLUTCH FORK?...MY DAD IS A MECHANIC AND TELLS ME THAT DA PRESSURE PLATE ONE SIDE IS LOWER...AND WE PUT A ROUND ITEM AT THE CENTER OF THE PRESSURE PLATE AND ITS NOT EVEN ALL AROUND THE CENTER...THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY...I WANT MY STARION ON THE ROAD...LOL

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You by chance use an 88/89 disc and an 83-87 pressure plate? Was this a complete kit or parts? It all depends on how the hub or the disc is made and on some yes it appears that the hub will contact the pressure plate in the middle but it won't because the pads are there and the hub might if the pads are all worn down. The middle isn't different its the outer diameter is larger its why you can redrill an 83-87 flywheel to the 88/89 larger diameter bolt pattern for the 88/89 disc that has more surface area for contact.
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http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_picCALYGSKD.jpg

 

 

the throw out bearings are also different for flattys and widebodies, and there were differences in the slave rod length.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_pic-3.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-72A-1.jpg

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You by chance use an 88/89 disc and an 83-87 pressure plate? Was this a complete kit or parts? It all depends on how the hub or the disc is made and on some yes it appears that the hub will contact the pressure plate in the middle but it won't because the pads are there and the hub might if the pads are all worn down. The middle isn't different its the outer diameter is larger its why you can redrill an 83-87 flywheel to the 88/89 larger diameter bolt pattern for the 88/89 disc that has more surface area for contact.

 

89 clutch system...89 flywheel...my starion is a 87...

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http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_picCALYGSKD.jpg

 

 

the throw out bearings are also different for flattys and widebodies, and there were differences in the slave rod length.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_pic-3.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-72A-1.jpg

 

so da slave cylinder rod on 85 starion is longer then a 88/89???????...i have a guy that only works on starion/conquest and said sumthing bout making the rod longer and the clutch would go in gear...cuz the master and slave r new

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You may not have the clutch fork on the pivot ball correctly.

Jimmy

 

jimmy...maybe so...its been such a headeach...buying new stuff and still da same problem...one guys tell dat no its the rod inside the slave 2 make it longer and that was my problem...another guy and my dad say its the pressure plate...so we took out the clutch...2 notices that the pressure plate at the center its not even all the way around...sum of the forks r lower then the other side...dad put a round bearing at the center and its not evenlly touching...wondering how the heck the pressure plate gets messed up in that way...its a new act clutch/plate i had 4 like 5 years and never had a chance 2 use it...until now...

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so da slave cylinder rod on 85 starion is longer then a 88/89???????...i have a guy that only works on starion/conquest and said sumthing bout making the rod longer and the clutch would go in gear...cuz the master and slave r new

 

hey where can i find only the rod that comes with the 83-85 slave cylinder??????...i called my local parts store and they say 83-89 is the same part number...but ur pic shows other wise...

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You by chance use an 88/89 disc and an 83-87 pressure plate? Was this a complete kit or parts? It all depends on how the hub or the disc is made and on some yes it appears that the hub will contact the pressure plate in the middle but it won't because the pads are there and the hub might if the pads are all worn down. The middle isn't different its the outer diameter is larger its why you can redrill an 83-87 flywheel to the 88/89 larger diameter bolt pattern for the 88/89 disc that has more surface area for contact.

 

87 starion...and i changed it 2 88/89 flywheel with a ACT 4 PUCK CLUTCH...I PUT IN SLAVE-MASTER CYLINDERS AND STILL THE SAME PROBLEM...BLEEDED THE SYSTEM OUT...STILL WONT GO IN GEAR...

Edited by JayR_NYC
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The slave rods are NOT the same there are two different ones. If its an intercooled transmission case then it takes the shorter rod and that includes 1985.5 flat, 1986 wide, 1987 wide and all 88/89. There is a NON INTERCOOLED transmission case from 1983-1985 and also in the 1986 FLAT and the 1987 FLAT and there weren't flat side cars in 88/89 in this country. Your "parts" guy is wrong and the same goes for the throw out bearing its the matched part to a set and its different height for the intercooled Vs non intercooled tranny case and the intercooled case bearing is shorter.

 

If you have a pressure plate and the fingers are not all at the same height that pressure plate is trash. There are broken or, which isn't likely, bent or it was used or its just defective and if its defective send it back to ACT they can tell if its been used or not and ask them about what to do with it..

 

You said I had 4 like 5 years and so on well that could mean you had "four like five" years and you bought many clutches at one time or just one and you had it "for like five" years and then we still have to weed through your slang and figure out what the heck you mean and I've better things to do and so do others than to try and figure out what you mean and sometimes posts like this are ignored because of that.

 

After you bleed the hydraulic system of all air, when you push the pedal your slave rod must move almost an inch, if it moves only half an inch you have air still in it and or your pedal linkage is worn out.

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i didnt knotice you said act clutch until that last post. chances are like indiana said there is some slop in your clutch pedal.

 

here is where its at, if those holes are oblonged its creating slop, that slop lets you loose about 2-5 inches of travel.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CL-1.jpg

that little pin that connects them also get wear on it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CAT-49.jpg

 

NOW....with a act clutch...i am gonna bet the bank your problem is right HERE. act clutches are a LOT more pressure and that small rubber peice inside the clutch adjustment rod cant handle it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-97A.jpg

 

i installed a BRAND NEW one in toms car, and his act was buckling that rubber peice so much it almost wouldnt go into gear. basically take it apart, and find something SOLID like washers to replace that rubber peice.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-97B.jpg

 

or get fancy and make your own new heavy duty one ;)

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_picCA433H89.jpg

 

as far as trying to put a longer rod on the slave cylinder to BANDAID the problem you need to figure out what is causing the problem. either the WRONG throwout bearing is being used, or the fork is not sitting on the pivot ball correctly and isnt allowing proper throw of the arm. i only posted pics of the differences in the slave arms to make sure you didnt have some mixed matched parts.

 

its also still possible the is air in the system. here is the EASIEST way to bleed our systems.

 

1. remove cap from resovoir

2. crank open the bleeder valve A LOT

3. pour fluid into the resovoir as it drains out the bleeder

4. when you see a STEADY stream of fluid coming out the bleeder close it off

5. fill resovoir to proper level, re-install sap

 

when you constantly PUSH fluid thru the lines, the air has NO CHOICE but to be forced out the bleeder. takes a little more brake fluid this way, but works like a charm and get the air 100% out.

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i didnt knotice you said act clutch until that last post. chances are like indiana said there is some slop in your clutch pedal.

 

here is where its at, if those holes are oblonged its creating slop, that slop lets you loose about 2-5 inches of travel.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CL-1.jpg

that little pin that connects them also get wear on it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CAT-49.jpg

 

NOW....with a act clutch...i am gonna bet the bank your problem is right HERE. act clutches are a LOT more pressure and that small rubber peice inside the clutch adjustment rod cant handle it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-97A.jpg

 

i installed a BRAND NEW one in toms car, and his act was buckling that rubber peice so much it almost wouldnt go into gear. basically take it apart, and find something SOLID like washers to replace that rubber peice.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-97B.jpg

 

or get fancy and make your own new heavy duty one ;)

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_picCA433H89.jpg

 

as far as trying to put a longer rod on the slave cylinder to BANDAID the problem you need to figure out what is causing the problem. either the WRONG throwout bearing is being used, or the fork is not sitting on the pivot ball correctly and isnt allowing proper throw of the arm. i only posted pics of the differences in the slave arms to make sure you didnt have some mixed matched parts.

 

its also still possible the is air in the system. here is the EASIEST way to bleed our systems.

 

1. remove cap from resovoir

2. crank open the bleeder valve A LOT

3. pour fluid into the resovoir as it drains out the bleeder

4. when you see a STEADY stream of fluid coming out the bleeder close it off

5. fill resovoir to proper level, re-install sap

 

when you constantly PUSH fluid thru the lines, the air has NO CHOICE but to be forced out the bleeder. takes a little more brake fluid this way, but works like a charm and get the air 100% out.

 

I JUST BOUGHT A NEW COMPLETE OEM CLUTCH SET...PUT IN THE PRESSURE PLATE...THROW OUT BEARINGS BUT WITH THE ACT 4 PUCK DISC...AND LETS SEE WAT HAPPENS...

Edited by JayR_NYC
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I JUST BOUGHT A NEW COMPLETE CLUTCH SET...IM PUTTING IN THE PRESSURE PLATE...THROW OUT BEARINGS PUT WITH THE ACT 4 PUCK DISC...AND LETS SEE WAT HAPPENS...

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That was stupid why not just get a new pressure plate? You have worn linkage parts I guarantee it. That little bit of worn slop in just the end of the clutch master is enough to cause high rpm gear grinding shifts. Stiffer pressure plates just wear the linkage out 10x quicker. You want to fix it for good then pull that bracket off the firewall under the dash and put bearings in all the moving joints.
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That was stupid why not just get a new pressure plate? You have worn linkage parts I guarantee it. That little bit of worn slop in just the end of the clutch master is enough to cause high rpm gear grinding shifts. Stiffer pressure plates just wear the linkage out 10x quicker. You want to fix it for good then pull that bracket off the firewall under the dash and put bearings in all the moving joints.

 

its not stupid...in case i need a bearing...got the clutch set for $103...what u think that ACT pressure plates r cheap...$200 only for the plate alone...

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where do you get an ACT clutch kit for 103?

 

ACT uses no special throw out bearing you can get those anywhere. You don't have the clutch out yet why did you order anything? One post you order a new one and the other post you don't even know if it was installed correctly.

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where do you get an ACT clutch kit for 103?

 

ACT uses no special throw out bearing you can get those anywhere. You don't have the clutch out yet why did you order anything? One post you order a new one and the other post you don't even know if it was installed correctly.

 

IM HERE 2 GET HELP...NOT TO HEAR B.S FROM ANYBODY...I POSTED THAT I TOOK OUT MY CLUTCH...SORRY OEM CLUTCH DAT I BOUGHT FOR $103...ASKING QUESTIONS CUZ I WAS ASKED BY A FRIEND IF IT WAS PUT IN RITE...CUZ HE PUT IN A CLUTCH FOR A MINI COOPER...AND HE INSTALLED THE CLUTCH THE REGULAR WAY WITH CENTER HUB IN TOWARDS THE TRANNY...AND IT WAS THE OTHER WAY AROUND...HUB OUTWARDS

Edited by JayR_NYC
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i didnt knotice you said act clutch until that last post. chances are like indiana said there is some slop in your clutch pedal.

 

here is where its at, if those holes are oblonged its creating slop, that slop lets you loose about 2-5 inches of travel.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CL-1.jpg

that little pin that connects them also get wear on it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CAT-49.jpg

 

NOW....with a act clutch...i am gonna bet the bank your problem is right HERE. act clutches are a LOT more pressure and that small rubber peice inside the clutch adjustment rod cant handle it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-97A.jpg

 

i installed a BRAND NEW one in toms car, and his act was buckling that rubber peice so much it almost wouldnt go into gear. basically take it apart, and find something SOLID like washers to replace that rubber peice.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/CR-97B.jpg

 

or get fancy and make your own new heavy duty one ;)

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/PQ%20manual%20pics/album_picCA433H89.jpg

 

as far as trying to put a longer rod on the slave cylinder to BANDAID the problem you need to figure out what is causing the problem. either the WRONG throwout bearing is being used, or the fork is not sitting on the pivot ball correctly and isnt allowing proper throw of the arm. i only posted pics of the differences in the slave arms to make sure you didnt have some mixed matched parts.

 

its also still possible the is air in the system. here is the EASIEST way to bleed our systems.

 

1. remove cap from resovoir

2. crank open the bleeder valve A LOT

3. pour fluid into the resovoir as it drains out the bleeder

4. when you see a STEADY stream of fluid coming out the bleeder close it off

5. fill resovoir to proper level, re-install sap

 

when you constantly PUSH fluid thru the lines, the air has NO CHOICE but to be forced out the bleeder. takes a little more brake fluid this way, but works like a charm and get the air 100% out.

 

CYBERQUEST...SORRY...I NEVER MENTIONED THAT I WAS JUST PUTTING IN THE ACT 4 PUCK CLTUCH...SWAPPED OUT OF MY PICK-UP...THE THING WAS..THAT THE FLYWHEEL IN MY PICK-UP GOT LOOSE...AND BY GETTING LOOSE MAYBE IT DAMAGED THE PRESSURE PLATE...HAD THE ACT CLUTCH LAYING AROUND FOR LIKE 3yrs...AND WHEN I GOT MY STARION...DECIDED 2 PUT IN THE ACT CLUTCH...AND THATS WAY I HAVE THAT PROBLEM THAT IT DOESNT GO IN GEAR...ASKED A FELLOW QUESTER...HE SAID IT BY THE FLYWHEEL GETTING LOOSE IN THE TRANNY IT DAMAGED THE PLATE

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disk install is easy the springs go out towards the pressure plate ,,,also on this pressure plate you said the arms are not even,,all the relase arms MUST be the same height , install'd or on the bench,, if they are not the pressure plate is bad ,new or not

 

and every one is trying to help you why get all testy,,and why the cap letters , thats not nice it's conceder'd yelling

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disk install is easy the springs go out towards the pressure plate ,,,also on this pressure plate you said the arms are not even,,all the relase arms MUST be the same height , install'd or on the bench,, if they are not the pressure plate is bad ,new or not

 

and every one is trying to help you why get all testy,,and why the cap letters , thats not nice it's conceder'd yelling

 

my ACT clutch doesnt have springs...its 4 puck racing disc no spring...does da hub that sticks out from the center of the disc goes in towards the tranny or out...

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the part of the clutch that sticks out more on a sprung disc goes towards the TRANNY side, i would assume it would be the same on a unsprung.

 

i have a used act extreme clutch in my car i bought used that is who knows how many years old. it melted a 6 puck disc to it and i scrapped off the material off the PP it left behind and put a STOCK disc in there and its been holding great for at least 2000 miles i know of. its been to branson missouri and kentucky to pick up candi a couple months ago and been to the track about 4 times.

 

it may be a stiff mother to pedal, but it sure is a tough bird.

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