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How to sound dampen the doors


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#1 Lizzord30

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Posted 11 August 2011 - 11:07 PM

I am replacing the door panels with different ones from my conquest and notices their is no insulation or plastic behind the door panels on my Starion anyone have tips on doing this? I would like as good or better then stock sound dampening, but at cheap/free lol

Also Plan to try to fit my 150Watt 6 1/2in 2 way speakers in the stock location. Any tips for that? Hope I can keep the stock look.

Thanks for any help!
89 TSI: The Blue Car Best time 12.4 15psi 7:1  Now is a part car for my 88.
88 Starion ESI-R Red Auto 60-1 hifi, Hawk ECU, 720cc inj, Magna Intake, from 8:1-9:1 compression.
More info here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130169
96 850 Turbo Volvo 5cyl, 2.3l, 15g Over 230k





#2 Lance_S

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 07:59 AM

Lizzord,

I have a system in my car.  I have dampened the doors with mat and I went through the process of dampening the whole car.  I used 5 lb carpet backing (which is cheap) and 3m spray adhesive.  The whole trunk and floor and firewall of the car has that.  I then got a roll of rubber roofing, it's around 30 to 40 mills thick and glued that to the carpet backing.  This put a floating layer (carpet backing) between the car and the rubber roof mat which is your sound deadener.  It significantley quited the car down.

For the door I used a second skin type product.  Peel and stick.  Double up behind the driver.  I run a 6 1/2 inch massive audio driver in the door.  I use a tupperware bowl that perfectly fits the driver for a homemade box.  It also seals the driver form the back side so moisture doesnt ruin it.  The tweets i put in the vynal covered panel just above and and infront of the mid range.  Just use a hole saw for that.  Fill the tupperware bowl with baffle material before you insert the driver.

The back of the needs to be reinforced with 1/4 luan because there is a space between the interior panel and the door panel.  Fill the void in the door panel with playdo or clay type material that doesn't harden.  Then screw the 1/4 luan to the inner door panel over the puddy.  The interior door panel will now pull up tight and eliminate any rattles.  Slide the bowl in first through your new hole, then your driver, then use long screws to go through the driver, interior panel, 1/4 " luan, and finally through the sheet metal door panel.

Don't worry, there is plenty of room behind the driver to fit the magnet.  The RK6 massive audio magnets are extremely large, some of the largest in the industry.  Yours will fit.

I will try and post some pics later, this computer doesn't have them up.

Edited by Lance_S, 12 August 2011 - 08:01 AM.

Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#3 Lance_S

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Posted 12 August 2011 - 08:01 AM

If your in West Michigan hit me up.  I am in Grand Haven, I can show you my install.
Hardpipes, MAFT, GM MAS, 3" DP, 2.5" exhaust, 950/1050 Trilogy injectors, K&N filter, Machined and balance flywheel 23 lbs, short shift, 88/89 tranny, HD ACT clutch, DSM EVO3 S16g ported (21 psi), polished and clipped, NJV head (ported), larger SS Valves, Schneider springs, Ajusa HG, Adjustable FPR, MBC, BOV, MSD coil, Walbro 255, ABS, EGR and balance shaft elim, 88/89 ECU, UEGO 02, new or rebuilt everything.

My feedback:  http://www.starquest...howtopic=127993

#4 Burton

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 11:35 AM

Are you wanting to sound deaden or just replace the wind plastic? The sheets that stick too the door frame behind the door trim panel are only there to keep wind and drafts from getting from the door itself into the interior of the car. Without the sheet you'll notice drafts around the door panel, door handles, and window switches. That plastic doesn't do anything for sound deadening. You can use a little adhesive around the edge and lay a nice thick plastic paint drop cloth type material in place of it.

For sound deadening you can use any of the lay in or spray in sound deadeners, but many of those get pretty expensive. Even some rubberized undercoating sprayed in the right places can quiet stuff down and it's pretty cheap.
Mark
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#5 Lizzord30

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 12:33 PM

View PostBurton, on 14 August 2011 - 11:35 AM, said:

Are you wanting to sound deaden or just replace the wind plastic? The sheets that stick too the door frame behind the door trim panel are only there to keep wind and drafts from getting from the door itself into the interior of the car. Without the sheet you'll notice drafts around the door panel, door handles, and window switches. That plastic doesn't do anything for sound deadening. You can use a little adhesive around the edge and lay a nice thick plastic paint drop cloth type material in place of it.

For sound deadening you can use any of the lay in or spray in sound deadeners, but many of those get pretty expensive. Even some rubberized undercoating sprayed in the right places can quiet stuff down and it's pretty cheap.

Well the plastic is missing on the Starion so I want to add something for weather and wind. I do have some Undercoating spray where are these "right places" that i can use this?
89 TSI: The Blue Car Best time 12.4 15psi 7:1  Now is a part car for my 88.
88 Starion ESI-R Red Auto 60-1 hifi, Hawk ECU, 720cc inj, Magna Intake, from 8:1-9:1 compression.
More info here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130169
96 850 Turbo Volvo 5cyl, 2.3l, 15g Over 230k

#6 TainterRacing

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 07:47 PM

We are getting older in years past the thread would say how do we remove some of it and get the car lighter........ Now we say heck with the wieght I will just build a more powerfull motor!!! :D

#7 Lizzord30

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Posted 14 August 2011 - 08:59 PM

View PostTainterRacing, on 14 August 2011 - 07:47 PM, said:

We are getting older in years past the thread would say how do we remove some of it and get the car lighter........ Now we say heck with the wieght I will just build a more powerfull motor!!! :D
Haa Yea Ill start at low PSI so I can add goodies and just raise it as the stuff goes in :D On a side note I found some plastic stuff in the shop looks like would work well to seal that up :)  Now to find some insulation laying around :D
89 TSI: The Blue Car Best time 12.4 15psi 7:1  Now is a part car for my 88.
88 Starion ESI-R Red Auto 60-1 hifi, Hawk ECU, 720cc inj, Magna Intake, from 8:1-9:1 compression.
More info here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130169
96 850 Turbo Volvo 5cyl, 2.3l, 15g Over 230k

#8 Burton

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 09:18 AM

Well, pretty much spray it in anywhere that you have a rattle or squeak. The "right places"  are wherever the car needs deadening
Mark
88 Starion
87 TSI Custom (wife's)
85.5 Starion
98 Mercedes-Benz S420
11 Kia Surento(wife's)
93 Nissan 300ZX 'Vert

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21 chapter online Body/Paint/Detailing manual

Best SQ virtual GARAGE on the net

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#9 Lizzord30

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 09:26 AM

I mean do you know problem places on the car?
89 TSI: The Blue Car Best time 12.4 15psi 7:1  Now is a part car for my 88.
88 Starion ESI-R Red Auto 60-1 hifi, Hawk ECU, 720cc inj, Magna Intake, from 8:1-9:1 compression.
More info here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130169
96 850 Turbo Volvo 5cyl, 2.3l, 15g Over 230k

#10 Burton

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Posted 15 August 2011 - 10:48 AM

View PostLizzord30, on 15 August 2011 - 09:26 AM, said:

I mean do you know problem places on the car?


Well, most of the squeeks and rattles in the doors are from wore out window tracks and such, but you don't really want to be going and coating the window tracks with undercoating. However, using a heavy grease in the tracks will sometimes quiet the rattles down to an extent.

When I've done sound deadening in SQs, I've pretty much covered everything I could. I use the roll on sheets on all the larger metal areas that are easy to get at, then spray the undercoatiing in the nooks and crannies where I couldn't get the other stuff into. I pretty much lay the roll on mat stuff on the trunk floor, the backs of the 1/4 panels, the back of the door skin, all the inner structural supoport areas of the interior, and then fill in with undercoating in the hard to get places.

If you're looking to just target certain areas, you'll have to drive around and listen for rattles and try to pinpoint the areas that the noise is coming from then concentrate your deadening in that area.
Mark
88 Starion
87 TSI Custom (wife's)
85.5 Starion
98 Mercedes-Benz S420
11 Kia Surento(wife's)
93 Nissan 300ZX 'Vert

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http://www.26liter.us/

21 chapter online Body/Paint/Detailing manual

Best SQ virtual GARAGE on the net

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#11 Lizzord30

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Posted 17 August 2011 - 07:54 AM

Yesterday been working on the center console mine has always creaked and made noises so tried to get that better. Deff improvement. but seams It needs some more haa
89 TSI: The Blue Car Best time 12.4 15psi 7:1  Now is a part car for my 88.
88 Starion ESI-R Red Auto 60-1 hifi, Hawk ECU, 720cc inj, Magna Intake, from 8:1-9:1 compression.
More info here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130169
96 850 Turbo Volvo 5cyl, 2.3l, 15g Over 230k

#12 emann420

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Posted 20 August 2011 - 12:03 AM

The plastic is used as a vapor barrier between the moisture accumulated along the window, that eventually drips into the door and is either evaporated away or is released through the drain holes at the bottom of the door skins, and the inner side of the door panel. "I think".  As far as the sound damping goes, one layer on the outer side of the inner door skin, one layer on the inner side of the outer door skin and two more patch panels of damping on the inside of the outer door skin right behind the speaker worked for me.  I managed to get all the rattles out of mine except for one light bulb inside the passenger side tail light. Up to 135dB

http://s1088.photobu...rDynamated2.jpg

E

Edited by emann420, 20 August 2011 - 12:07 AM.


#13 aka_x

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 12:29 PM

i think i want to do this since my car seems loud in the inside

#14 Indiana

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Posted 06 October 2011 - 12:41 AM

Ya, a door panel that's been on the car for awhile and that plastic is gone will warp.  Its just cardboard and when it rains water drips down off the glass and blows around and runs out the bottom of the door.  They were putting plastic behind the cardboard door panels at least in the 50s maybe the 40s too but I've only worked on one car from the 40s and it didn't even have an interior, that is until I made it all.




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