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My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES


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#81 SFBMX88

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:24 AM

If your pcm has a tach output signal wire, you should be able to wire it to the factory tach.  Keep trying with your imgur account.  It should give you multiple embed option links.  Iíve been using it for years with no issues.





#82 TsTKl

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 07:09 PM

I got the impression based on the circuit diagram for the 1g dsm that the transistor pack creates the tach signal, not the ecu. In any event I was able to create that circuit with a fairly simple circuit which replicates the signal. I still need to figure out the speed signal circuit but I have a feeling my test bench is creating the issues more so than my circuit design. Based on the information I have been able to collect on the VGS rack it appears to be fairly stand alone. I'm thinking that worst case scenario I would make the system manually operated in a "set it and forget it" manner for a given track/driving day. I believe I have all of the components to make it work like the OEM system on the s2000 except for the wiring harness plugs for the high current circuit on the controller for the rack. Unfortunately they are unique to the VGS cars. All of the wiring is done now except for the steering rack though so at least there's that. I am in the process of rebuilding the rack I got as there was some damage to it and I wanted to better understand how it works. Unfortunately there are quite a few specialty tools needed to fully disassemble it so I won't get it all the way apart. Something is better than nothing though.
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#83 TsTKl

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 01:28 AM

I weighed the car today, unfortunately it's a lot heavier than I had hoped. 2676 lbs without fuel, driver, coolant, steering rack, steering rack ecu, timing belt, crank pulley, water pump pulley, water pump belt, alternator belt, and an exhaust heat shield. I estimate it will be 3070 fully laden with driver. The weight distribution should be 49/51 with a full tank of gas though shifting to about 51.5/48.5 as the tank empties. I'll weigh the car again once it's running but I guess I added quite a bit of weight (***cough t-56 cough***)
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#84 TsTKl

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Posted 08 September 2020 - 11:09 PM

Well the car hasn't made as much progress as I would have liked but it has made some progress. I was looking to start the engine last month but couldn't get the ECU to connect to my laptop to set up the injector size. I tore into the wiring harness again and fixed a few small issues. It appears the factory ETACS system provides power to the gauge cluster and the reed switch in the speedo grounds that signal to create the pulse signal that gets sent to the ECU. My T-56 setup is wired backwards from that, which is somewhat irrelevant since that signal goes to a conditioning circuit that converts the signal from GM to mitsu which needs to be powered anyways. I also had wired the wideband and speedo conditioning circuit to "room" which is always powered instead of a switched powered source which seemed to be pulling down power on that circuit quite a bit. Anyways these fixes didn't seem to change the ECU powering on issues so I'll need to dig in again and see what's up. Hopefully it's something stupid like a connector unplugged. I recently upgraded to DSMLINK V3 so the daughterboard is new.

Also on the steering rack front I've now purchased 3 service manuals from japan trying to find the OEM wiring diagram for the S2000 Type V VGS system to no avail. I've moved on to purchasing complete brand new OEM wiring harnesses which will get quite expensive quite quickly but should allow me to at least put this issue to bed. All of the parts for the steering rack itself are in now so I was able to rebuild half of it last weekend and will finish the other half next weekend. I highly recommend no one ever try and service any S2000 steering rack, let alone the VGS version. You literally couldn't pay me enough to do this again. A new OEM VGS rack is $6000 and after all this feels more or less worth it. If it wasn't for the corona virus I probably would have flown to japan to buy some parts myself that's how bad this whole process has been. The car is effectively ready to go other than these two gremlins...
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#85 TsTKl

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Posted 29 December 2020 - 10:17 PM

So today I finally got everything on the engine side together and tried to crank the engine. The fuel system for some reason isn't working. I'm going to look into it tomorrow, I have a feeling the surge tank pump is outflowing the main tank pump and therefore can't develop pressure. I'm going to prime the system and see if that helps.

Other than that, the steering rack is all ready to go and I have the mounts cut and bent but need to weld them up. Once that's done technically the car could be driven, but wouldn't have power steering or 3 point seatbelts. There's a handful of other small things that need to be cleaned up before I'll be happy with it but I could drive it once the steering rack is in. I hope to have the car movable before 2021, so it's crunch time. I plan to break the engine in on the dyno so once it is in a movable state I'll get it towed to the dyno and break the motor in.
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#86 TsTKl

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Posted 01 January 2021 - 12:50 AM

https://youtu.be/XUDBK7OxSHE

Apparently I wired the ignition coil backwards. The steering rack mounts aren't done but a little progress was made. The car won't move before the end of the year but it shouldn't be too long into 2021 before it does. The lifters cleared up after the video.
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#87 tux

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Posted 03 January 2021 - 08:09 PM

Looks good

#88 TsTKl

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Posted 04 January 2021 - 01:15 AM

thanks

Technically, the car is now drivable. There's a long list of small things I want to take care of before I actually go for a drive, and most likely I'll be towing the car to a dyno to have the engine broke it before I actually drive it, however if I needed to drive the car for some reason I could.
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#89 cheesey

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Posted 09 January 2021 - 06:21 AM

Looks great! Hopefully its ripping soon!

#90 TsTKl

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Posted 12 January 2021 - 10:25 PM

So mini update, I'm trying to arrange to break the engine in on the dyno. The steering column support bearing I added seized while setting the front toe so I need to redesign that, and I did a boost leak test and found a few pinhole leaks on some of the welds so I'm replacing the intercooler pipes with aluminum ones now that I'm a much better welder than I was 7 years ago. Lastly, the inner tie rod end on the drivers side was a bit too short so I ordered a longer one. I also was able to clean up a ton of small details around the car so once these issues are fixed I should be able to break the motor in and push it pretty hard without worrying about too much. The coolant system leaking would be my next biggest concern.
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#91 TsTKl

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 01:00 PM

Another update, I was able to finish the new steering support bearing and get it all installed. The steering rack mounts are 100% done and painted and in, and the longer tie rod is in as well. I have a shorter tie rod for the passenger side but I'm going to try and do an alignment first and see how it turns out. I cut about 10mm off the end of the current inner tie rod but the nut may bottom out next. I plan to put the car back on the ground today and fix a few more pinholes I found in the intake pipe, as well as replace some of the rubber vac lines with silicone stuff and the car should be ready for an alignment and first drive this weekend. The boost leak testing is to the point where I think I hear something but the system holds pressure for multiple minutes with a pretty slow leakdown rate so I'm sure there's only small stuff left. It's possible since I'm testing nearly everything that those leaks are "by design" such as the charcol canister. I do know the top flange of the BOV is leaking however it's extremely small and other than putting RTV on it there isn't much I can do.
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#92 obsolete

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Posted 10 February 2021 - 02:56 PM

Awesome, I'd love to see some pictures of the steering setup if you can post them.
Small boost leaks are no big deal IMO, but there shouldn't be a boost leak into the charcoal canister. If there isn't a check valve there already, you can install one between the intake and the purge valve. Air only needs to flow from the canister into the intake when the intake is under vacuum, never the other direction.
Buy the ticket, take the ride.

#93 TsTKl

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 05:49 PM

I'm going to try and make a video as it's probably easier to just upload one thing to youtube than to do a bunch of photos. There's quite a bit of custom work on the steering setup but it's pretty awesome so far.

Regarding the boost leaks I actually just went out and bought a 20 gallon air compressor so I could do more extensive boost leak testing. The charcoal canister is opening over a certain pressure or something, I was able to pinch the line with a clamp and the noise went away. There were also a few vac lines that had the wrong size hose clamps on them so now that's updated. Perhaps the check valve on the charcoal canister is just old and weak.

Another update, last friday I actually drove the car down my driveway and back up it. I found the ISC is "wrong" in that it's from a 90 while the car is wired for 91+. Apparently there are some differences there. I could rewire the 90 ISC but ended up just buying a 91+ ISC that's new so I don't have to worry about it. There are a few other changes that are going on and I hope to have the car on the dyno by the end of the month.
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