My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES
Posted 07 June 2020 - 07:09 PM
Posted 14 June 2020 - 01:28 AM
Posted 08 September 2020 - 11:09 PM
Also on the steering rack front I've now purchased 3 service manuals from japan trying to find the OEM wiring diagram for the S2000 Type V VGS system to no avail. I've moved on to purchasing complete brand new OEM wiring harnesses which will get quite expensive quite quickly but should allow me to at least put this issue to bed. All of the parts for the steering rack itself are in now so I was able to rebuild half of it last weekend and will finish the other half next weekend. I highly recommend no one ever try and service any S2000 steering rack, let alone the VGS version. You literally couldn't pay me enough to do this again. A new OEM VGS rack is $6000 and after all this feels more or less worth it. If it wasn't for the corona virus I probably would have flown to japan to buy some parts myself that's how bad this whole process has been. The car is effectively ready to go other than these two gremlins...
Posted 29 December 2020 - 10:17 PM
Other than that, the steering rack is all ready to go and I have the mounts cut and bent but need to weld them up. Once that's done technically the car could be driven, but wouldn't have power steering or 3 point seatbelts. There's a handful of other small things that need to be cleaned up before I'll be happy with it but I could drive it once the steering rack is in. I hope to have the car movable before 2021, so it's crunch time. I plan to break the engine in on the dyno so once it is in a movable state I'll get it towed to the dyno and break the motor in.
Posted 01 January 2021 - 12:50 AM
Apparently I wired the ignition coil backwards. The steering rack mounts aren't done but a little progress was made. The car won't move before the end of the year but it shouldn't be too long into 2021 before it does. The lifters cleared up after the video.
Posted 04 January 2021 - 01:15 AM
Technically, the car is now drivable. There's a long list of small things I want to take care of before I actually go for a drive, and most likely I'll be towing the car to a dyno to have the engine broke it before I actually drive it, however if I needed to drive the car for some reason I could.
Posted 12 January 2021 - 10:25 PM
Posted 10 February 2021 - 01:00 PM
Posted 10 February 2021 - 02:56 PM
Small boost leaks are no big deal IMO, but there shouldn't be a boost leak into the charcoal canister. If there isn't a check valve there already, you can install one between the intake and the purge valve. Air only needs to flow from the canister into the intake when the intake is under vacuum, never the other direction.
Posted 19 February 2021 - 05:49 PM
Regarding the boost leaks I actually just went out and bought a 20 gallon air compressor so I could do more extensive boost leak testing. The charcoal canister is opening over a certain pressure or something, I was able to pinch the line with a clamp and the noise went away. There were also a few vac lines that had the wrong size hose clamps on them so now that's updated. Perhaps the check valve on the charcoal canister is just old and weak.
Another update, last friday I actually drove the car down my driveway and back up it. I found the ISC is "wrong" in that it's from a 90 while the car is wired for 91+. Apparently there are some differences there. I could rewire the 90 ISC but ended up just buying a 91+ ISC that's new so I don't have to worry about it. There are a few other changes that are going on and I hope to have the car on the dyno by the end of the month.
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