Fuze Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) EDIT::: All images are still up, copy and paste into a new browser window. How-To: Cutting the floor/ Building an easy fuel pump access panel Most of us will have a fuel pump fail and will have to change it out. Mitsubishi in their infinite wisdom, put an access panel in the trunk that's too small to remove the pump, but big enough to see part of it. You can get at the pickup but not the pump or the bolts holding it on. You have two options at this point, drain/drop the tank and disconnect the three hard lines which are easily stripped or kinked, or make a bigger access panel in the trunk and leave the tank where it is. For this procedure, you're going to need : 1) An angle grinder and a steady hand 2) Marker 3) Cardboard for template 4) About 18" x 12" of sheet metal 5) Silicone sealant 6) Damp/wet rag 7) Some cohones and some common sense. If this freaks you out, just stop now. This is pretty easy to do but you can possibly cut the hoses if you don't control the depth of the cut well. Maybe even start a fire. But not if you follow the directions here. http://waste-nj.com/d2/pump/pumpcut1.jpg First pull the black trunk false-floor piece off the driver side to get to the pump inspection cover. Remove the inspection cover and you'll see it's glued on with silicone and held with one screw. What we are going to do is extend the existing hole forward up to around the place where the plastic plug is, to the side of the strut tower. (see above image) Start by drawing a line for your cut with a marker. Leave enough room/flat surface on the outside of the line to glue down the new panel cover . Now reach into the access hole and locate the lines/wires that run under the part of the floor you will be cutting. Take the wet rag/towel and stuff it into the access hole between the lines and the floor and push it all down as much as you can. The wet rag will keep the sparks in check and keep the lines/wires out of the way. http://waste-nj.com/d2/pump/pumpcut2.jpg Now fire up the grinder and go slow, cut shallow and follow your guide line. I suppose it's possible to use a pair of sharp snips for this, possibly.. but why waste a perfectly good power tool? Once you take the piece out, you should be able to get to all parts of the pump, the pressure line fitting, etc. All that room! (see above image) I'm not going to go into changing the pump, that's pretty self-explanatory. http://waste-nj.com/d2/pump/pumpcut3.jpg Grab the cardboard and mock up a cover for the new hole in your floor. Trace it onto the sheet metal and cut the cover out. I used a regular old stainless kick panel for a door, you can use almost anything. http://waste-nj.com/d2/pump/pumpcut5.jpg Test fit, trim the cover if needed. The rear edge of the cover fits under the existing hold-down (see above image), and at the front-left of the plate you probably want to mark out a spot for one screw, avoiding any lines or wires under the floor. There's not really anything on the left side. http://waste-nj.com/d2/pump/pumpcut4.jpg Put a bead of sealant/silicone around the edge of the hole, and push the plate down onto it. http://waste-nj.com/d2/pump/pumpcut6.jpg Put something heavy on it until it dries, and put a screw through the upper left corner to secure it. Now you have easy access to all the pump parts, filters, etc. That wasn't too scary now, was it? Edited September 11, 2023 by Fuze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 I could drop the tank and fix it the right way, faster. I firmly believe the access hole is for the Cone filter only.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) Looks decent. Who wants to drop the tank for a fuel pump when you can make an access panel with ease? This should be a kit that comes with a template and an aluminum cover panel. You could even use some quarter turn fasteners and foam weatherstrip. I would like to add that you can use a chisel and a 2 pound hammer to make your cut if the angle grinder is too scary. Edited July 23, 2014 by JohnnyWadd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 I could drop the tank and fix it the right way, faster. I firmly believe the access hole is for the Cone filter only.... Really? Because this took about a half hour. If you can drop the tank AND put it back in a half hour, my hat's off to you. Looks decent. Who wants to drop the tank for a fuel pump when you can make an access panel with ease? This should be a kit that comes with a template and an aluminum cover panel. You could even use some quarter turn fasteners and foam weatherstrip. I would like to add that you can use a chisel and a 2 pound hammer to make your cut if the angle grinder is too scary. A kit.... not a bad idea there JW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I did this a few years back but used a non-drying black goo/sealant of some sort. Came in handy when I needed to get in there a few more times later. 3 tiny sheet metal screws to mount. Since sealed up batt. wiring. Great write up. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10168/IM000726.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 I did this a few years back but used a non-drying black goo/sealant of some sort. Came in handy when I needed to get in there a few more times later. 3 tiny sheet metal screws to mount. Since sealed up batt. wiring. Great write up. Didn't think about using non-drying sealant but that's a good idea. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Nice write up. I did mine years ago when I had a lot of trouble with the old rusted hardware not wanting to come off to drop the tank. I used .063 aluminum for the cover panel and thin foam adhesive backed weather stripping around the hole. It turned out pretty nice. http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/fiji/20140728_164858_zps3845fec8.jpg http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/fiji/20140728_164910_zpsbc9eeedd.jpg BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Nice write up. I did mine years ago when I had a lot of trouble with the old rusted hardware not wanting to come off to drop the tank. I used .063 aluminum for the cover panel and thin foam adhesive backed weather stripping around the hole. It turned out pretty nice. http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/fiji/20140728_164858_zps3845fec8.jpg BC_99 This guy with the bead roller.. Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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