polarisman14

Description: I have a stock set of anti-sway bars off of my SHP '89 Starion. I'm told there is no difference between SHP and non SHP anti sways for the 88-89s but they are 21mm front and 19mm rear versus 19/16 for 87 and under. Asking/Offering Price: $100 shipped in the U.S. Pics: Available upon request. Location: Gilmanton, NH E-Mail: Paypal to indylite_2000@yahoo.com or local pickup with cash. Thanks for your interest! Matt

That IC is massive! I kept the battery in the stock location but ended up utilizing a smaller battery (Braille) as my charge pipe layout didn't allow the full size battery. Now that I got rid of my charcoal canister and a bunch of other stuff on the right side, I relocated the battery to the right front corner. Fits quite nicely there.

I'm running the ACT 6 puck, I bought mine through Granite State Dyno in NH and it was actually cheaper than the cheapest one on eBay by ten or fifteen bucks. Alex (the owner) and his team are awesome. I believe his site is http://www.dynonh.com/.

Mike, What wires do you tap into for the knock sensor coming off the ECU? I'd like to do this to mine sometime soon as we're getting into higher HP and boost territory.

Drove and datalogged a few miles and put 5 more gallons of 93 in there. Almost done tuning for the season just in time for it to hibernate for 5 months lol.

Happy Birthday and thank you!

Yeah I have a TurboSmart Eboost2 electronic boost controller that can do all sorts of things--I haven't wired any of the real capabilities of it in yet but I am sure that is one of them. More than anything I just wanted a low level light on the dash or something to give me a visual cue of when I should be taking it easy. I like your idea of having the boost controller cut the boost for you but it won't retard the timing, either I would have to put that into the MS programming somewhere or just leave the timing alone. Thank you for your input--now I just gotta come up with a few hundred bucks to actually buy it. Really, really kicking myself for selling it in the first place!

The factory knock sensor on the Focus is notoriously unreliable and pulls timing on the stock map due to false detonation, never mind one that is modified--that feature was turned off. I did, however, plumb a stereo output out from the knock sensor wiring and plug it into the factory stereo so I could "hear" what the knock sensor was hearing and listen for what would typically be inaudible detonation. I will likely be having the car tuned on a dyno by a professional in the future anyway--just looking for some guidelines to get the ball rolling a bit in the meantime without putting the car at any real risk. It sounds like the best way to do that for someone who hasn't tuned much is just to install the meth and leave it as is or at the most set the AFR conservatively, so that if the meth system were to fail or run out of fluid it'd still be in the safe range.

For sale through Dad at engine machine service for $8 or something. Worth every penny.

Did some more driving...Between the tune tweaks and colder air it rips, and I'm not even taking it near redline or near my future peak boost yet. SQ, how I've missed you . Oh, and got a new slave cylinder and alt/water pump belt on order.

That's what I am planning on doing. Just trying to get the info out there so other people in my situation will have an easier time finding the info. My take on it based on what I've read and heard is what you said--don't use it as a constant, only as a failsafe. If my AFR at WOT on gas is set to 11.0 and meth drops it down to 10.5 I may tune it back up to 11.0, that'd mean if the meth wasn't spraying anymore it'd be 11.5 and IMO that's still a safe WOT AFR on 93oct. My Focus was at 11.8 AFR target and that was with a 9.6:1 CR vs the 8.0:1 I have now. Same thing with timing, put another degree in it and call it done--unless you were really close to the edge beforehand, then leave it where it is. Awesome numbers BTW! So in order to get those numbers, did you run meth with no tuning and just up the boost, or did you make adjustments to the tune at all?

So, what benefits do you see when compared to not using it? Sell me on it. What's an honest guy's sales pitch?

Yeah I was just throwing numbers out. I know there is no "one size fits all" answer that will optimize all setups, just looking for a few guiding principles from people who have tuned successfully using meth as to how their VE table and timing table changed. I've got a better idea of what to do after reading through this thread: http://www.romraider...php?f=33&t=8051 Essentially, the explanation given there is that you use your wideband to datalog the differences in AFR after you install the methanol injection and dial the fuel back so that your new AFR including meth injection matches your targets. You don't really want to lean things out as you are already decreasing the amount of fuel injected to compensate for the meth/water mix contributing to the AFR the wideband sees. You can, however, run 1-2 degrees more timing and a couple psi more boost (generally speaking) which will likely produce ~10% more horsepower and torque. Pump gas with 50/50 meth/water mix is roughly equivalent to C16 in its properties and allows you to tune as such. They consider these to be "horsepower gains" even though they are at higher boost levels, because you wouldn't have been able to run those levels beforehand without detonating.

Hey all, Just wondering if there is a basic tuning theory to tuning for methanol injection. This assumes that the injection nozzle is sized appropriately for your horsepower goals, and that you are utilizing a 50/50 mixture of pure methanol and distilled water for injection (rather than washer fluid as there are inconsistencies in what % methanol it is, etc). For example, the Snow Performance Stage 2 MAP system is what I will be utilizing. I had the same system in my Focus and was very happy with its performance so I'll be going with it again. Kicking myself for selling it as I had the 7qt reservoir and everything. They suggest tuning the controller to start spraying at 1/3 of your peak boost pressure and obviously max out at peak boost. The controller has 2 sets of adjustment screws to dial in when it kicks in and when it maxes out. Assuming all of this is set up properly, what would you use as a new target AFR on meth + 93oct pump gas, and how would you adjust timing? Given that the water in the mixture cools the IATs down and the methanol raises the effective octane rating of the fuel, I would imagine you could run a couple degrees more timing advance without concern for detonation, correct? It seems like timing has a bigger impact on power levels than AFR (within reason, you don't want to be running 10:1 or 14:1 at 20psi) so I would almost leave the target AFRs/VE values alone and just mess with timing instead? Thoughts? Essentially my aim is to make a reliable car that can be used as a daily driver or track day car so I am not looking to run on the ragged edge. Curious if say leaning out the AFRs in boost a few tenths and adding a couple degrees of timing would be safer, or leaving AFR as it and adding 3 or 4 degrees? It's gonna be a while before I get meth installed anyway, but I am curious. I'll either wire the meth in to access table switching when it kicks on or have a low level light installed so I don't beat on it if I run out of methanol...Doing both is probably the smartest for a safeguard. Thanks! Matt

Drove and datalogged more, increasing the boost a bit more. Avg was around 8psi, stopping around 4500rpm. More tweaks and more driving soon!