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Starion megasquirt wiring diagram


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#1 19cturbo

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Posted 22 November 2010 - 12:43 AM

For the starion main relay you can get your info here thanks to indiana.  
YOU MUST READ THIS BECAUSE SOME WIRES MUST BE SWAPPED!
http://www.b2600turb...ring%20MSII.htm

A GREAT LINK FOR INJECTOR WIRING!
courtesy of indiana!!
http://www.b2600turb...k_injectors.htm

I did not swap the wires in the connector on my build, have not had any issues yet..


i believe i have it all labeled right, if you see a flaw please tell me and i will fix it..

hope this helps others...

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This is a pic of the way the diodes for the tach signal need to be wired..

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Edited by 19cturbo, 23 March 2012 - 08:57 AM.

Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.





#2 19cturbo

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Posted 22 December 2010 - 04:02 PM

more pics.. this is the under dash harness (B-38) and the main relay harness..

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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#3 19cturbo

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 09:50 PM

ok guys, here is how i plan to wire my Megasquirt. it differs from the original posted diagram but will work the same.. this way just seems easier to me so here it goes...

ill be keeping the factory main relay, and B38 plug under the dash. I will also be keeping the factory wires for the fuel pump, oil pressure gauge, and water temp gauge...

here is what im starting with, as you can see there are three wires that run from the B38 plug to the main relay.. this supplies power to the relay from the battery, and activates the relay when you turn the switch to cranking, and one that keeps the power running through it once the switch is released to ON.

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here you can see the three wires running to the B38 plug and also that there are 4 wires that have been cut..
1 wire is the input from Megasquirt to keep the fuel pump on
1 wire is the output to power the injectors
1 wire is the output to power the Megasquirt unit, and the EDIS control module
1 wire is a ground for the relay, grounded to the body.

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here you can see the input wire from the Megasquirt, to keep the fuel pump running once the ignition switch is turned to ON

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here you can see the output wire that will power the injectors, this wire will be split, then those wires will run through their own 5 amp fuse, and from the fuse block, the wires will split again, and power the 4 injectors.

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here you can see the output wire that will power the Megasquirt unit, and the EDIS control module... this will will also be split and run to a fuse block one branch will run through a 2amp fues and back to the power wire for the Megasquirt, the other branch will run through a 15 amp fuse and to the power wire on the EDIS control module..

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here you can see the ground wire, that gets grounded to the body of the car.

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here you can see the factory wire that will power the fuel pump, im even going to keep the factory "test" wire.

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here you can see the B38 plug, this is the plug under the dash. in this plug you will be actually using 5 wires, 3 wires run to the Main factory relay. The other two are for your oil pressure, and water temp gauge.

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here you can see that i have pulled out the oil pressure and water temp gauge wires, i will rerun these later to rerun them later to the proper sending unit. if you use these wires you and your factory gauge sending units, your factory gauges will still work properly.

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here is a closer view of the wires that will run to the oil pressure sending unit, and the water temp sending unit

Edited by 19cturbo, 09 November 2011 - 09:27 PM.

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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#4 Komeuppance

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 09:58 PM

LOL... after ALL the questions...

-Robert

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#5 19cturbo

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:02 PM

View PostKomeuppance, on 14 February 2011 - 09:58 PM, said:

LOL... after ALL the questions...

-Robert


ALL the questions got me to this point, and this is also not my harness, this is a spare i pulled out of doobs car that committed suicide. lol..
Being not real since I learned what was good for me

View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#6 Guest_Phillip_411_*

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Posted 25 September 2011 - 09:05 PM

Where is the B38 plug located?  I have found the main harness and relay but I have tore the car apart hunting this b38 plug.  I am getting ready to wire in the megasquirt 2 v3.0 system.  Thanks for all of the help.

#7 19cturbo

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:28 PM

View Post19cturbo, on 19 December 2010 - 07:28 PM, said:

here is the harness

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here is the fuel pump wires, the white clip is the harness going to the main relay, the clip you rewire, the black and white wire is the wire for the fuel pump... the one with the black clip is the test wire under the hood.. the one with the black and white clip is the one that plugs under the dash and goes to the fuel pump...You can also see the black wire with the yellow stripe here, it is the input from the ignition switch "start" position to activate the fuel pump relay to turn it on.. you can leave that wire in as well, and your fuel pump should remain working like it did from the factory.

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here is the starter wire, the smaller clip is the part of the wire that plugs into the starter soldnoid.. the bigger square clip is the side the plugs into the relay box beside the battery, behind the metal cover.. its probably about 2-3 feet long.. its is tied to nothing else... you can pull this wire out of your factory harness and reuse it if you would like..

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this is another shot of the plug that plugs up under the dash, this is the plug with the wires for the oil pressure and water temp gauge.. if you wanted to you could cut this connector off the factory harness and splice new wires in and run them to your sending units on your engine.. that way you could just plug this back in and your gauges would work.. oncea again you can see the black wire with the yellow stripe, this is the wire going to your ignition switch "start position"

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you can see in this pic the two wires with the oil pressure and water temp gauge, i have labeled the wires...

Posted Image

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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#8 macrophage

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:05 AM

those wires are mad complicated just start all over with fresh wires.

#9 19cturbo

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 07:50 AM

it was very simple.. made things much easier.
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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#10 tux

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 01:50 PM

does the b38 wire #10 for rpm run to the tach ?

#11 19cturbo

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:07 AM

Im not sure on that, its been a while since i had done it. I believe it was RPM signal to the ECU. because i ran my signal for the tach back to the factory location. I used the wire that was attached to the stock coil.
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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#12 tux

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 01:32 PM

ah ok thanks,

I'll just run a wire straight to the tach.




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