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My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES


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#61 TsTKl

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 01:04 AM

So, sorry this is a day late, but the powder coaters took an extra day with the parts I was getting done (no no chi, thorough is good). Anyways, I’ve done a lot of small steps since I last posted on here, I’m sure I’ll forget a lot.
The biggest thing for me was getting the cams degreed. I bought a 9 inch degree wheel because effectively I was trying to find a basket filler from a specific website and 9 inches was the largest they had. It actually turned out to be really good as it would have hit more things if I had bought a larger wheel. I was able to use some plumbers tape as an indicator, and mount it easily to the bolt holes in the water pump. The biggest challenge was not having solid lifters. I would highly recommend anyone who is degreeing their cams use solid lifters. I ended up making a spreadsheet and measuring the displacement of the valve and the lifter to find the cam’s position relative to the crank. Exhaust was 8 degrees off, intake was 4.
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The most noticeable thing was the intercooler piping and intercooler. The radiator still isn’t bolted down up top, but the intercooler is fairly secure. I was able to weld together the intercooler support bracket, intercooler piping, and intake pipe. The blow off valve will recirculate for now, and the car is fully capable of being run in speed density or standard maf style. This is all “finished” except the intake pipe will eventually be replaced for a larger diameter.
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You’ll notice a lot of other stuff from this picture. I was able to paint the valve cover how I wanted it pretty successfully. It is a black base coat with a green metallic “over spray” and a clear coat over that, all spray painted. I’m expecting the paint to melt off when I get the car running unfortunately, but it looks pretty good for now. Also, you’ll notice the catch can in the back corner. I welded that together myself. It has a special feature that I want to test out. There are three ports on it for the engine. Two on the valve cover and one off the dip stick. The idea is any pressure that builds up in the crank case will go out the dip stick first hopefully. I was also able to get some smaller stuff done.
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Here you can see the “upper” intercooler pipe and bov recirculation tube. The inline thermostat is a work in progress, but you get the idea. The coolant system is very very close to being done, which is great because it has been a fairly large pain up to now. The coil pack mount is also temporary, in the sense that I will convert to coil on plug eventually, although I do very much like the idea of keeping this arrangement, as I have 7 (yes 7) spare oem coil packs somehow.
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The “lower” intercooler pipe can be seen here, as well as some other finer details. The green from the valve cover can really be seen here. The idea is, in low lighting the valve cover looks 100% black, but with light the green can be seen. I got the idea from the 2004 STI oem paint, “java black pearl” which uses gold instead of green.
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Here you can see the o2 sensor heat sink. Wideband o2 sensors generally don’t like the heat of a turbo, so I made this as a modified version of this idea:
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/innovatelc1orlm1install
I had the aluminum sheet lying around, as well as the aluminum heat sinks. One look at my company’s welder and it was done.
You can also see the clutch system bleeder on the firewall. The original plan was to have it on top of the backside of the transmission so I could perform bleeds from inside the car and thus only need one person, but the shape of the transmission and trans tunnel made that difficult, and honestly, this was too easy to do this way. I know a lot of people have trouble properly bleeding this style slave cylinder, so having a nearly vertical line seemed logical.
It should be noted that I am still not happy with the wiring. I am going to re-loom the engine wiring harness, and possibly the chassis wiring harness as well. I plan to get a decent amount done this week as well, as I don’t start my new job until next Monday. I do not have a welder anymore however. I think I will be filling the car up with oil tomorrow and running the oil pump, although that will more so be to check the volume of the oil system with the large oil cooler and such installed. I have a list of just under 40 things I still want to do before firing the car up, so it will still be a while, but it is nice to see so much progress again. Also, those 40 things does not include “put a steering rack in the car”, so even once it is done the car would only be able to theoretically drive forwards and backwards, and wouldn’t be able to turn. I’m pretty concerned about properly braking in the motor, so I’m not too keen on starting it up until everything is perfect. Also that is the largest driving force behind the maf/speed density redundancies.

P.S. I'll try and fix the pictures tomorrow.

Edited by TsTKl, 01 April 2015 - 11:18 PM.

proof it did run at one point...
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#62 speedyquest

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 11:46 AM

It looks like you made some good progress man. Your doing a great job on his project, its inspiring. One thing you may want to think about is moving your wideband sensor down the exhaust a bit. I believe the general rule of thumb for distance from the turbo is 16 to 20 inches. It does not lessen the effectiveness or accuracy of the sensor and it will significantly increase its lifespan.

Keep up the good work man

Allen

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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#63 importwarrior

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 12:06 PM

i second the wideband location. mine lasted 7000 miles when it was in the stock location on my quest.
apples to oranges as far as motors but i feel it should be a little farther away from the turbo.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

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#64 TsTKl

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Posted 01 April 2015 - 11:26 PM

This website is almost unusable, can we get these issues fixed? I can't even get the quote feature to work, let alone the multiquote feature. Typing is also horrible. Anyways, in response to your suggestion, please remember, this is ME you are talking about. Redundancy is my middle name.

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It is hard to see, but there is already a second o2 sensor bug in the exhaust. There are plenty of people who have ran these sensors how I am, but if needed, I can make changes. That is also currently a narrowband o2 sensor because innovate sucks and refuses to fix my lc-1.

Edited by TsTKl, 01 April 2015 - 11:30 PM.

proof it did run at one point...
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#65 importwarrior

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Posted 02 April 2015 - 05:07 AM

thanks for the update.
i had lots of problems with early version of win 7.

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#66 screemin eagle

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Posted 02 April 2015 - 10:07 AM

Felipe saez from innovate sucks big time. They won't fix anything. I even offered to pay.
88 TSI 4g63
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Posted 05 April 2015 - 10:01 PM

I've had great luck with innovate products, and have had warranties done. How old is the part, and is this the first time it failed?
I like your intercooler setup.
-Jay

#68 TsTKl

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Posted 06 April 2015 - 08:05 PM

The product is pretty old, LC-1, probably in 2006 or 2007 when they first came out, maybe earlier, but I asked them how much it would cost to fix it and they stopped responding. I approached them at SEMA and they said, "the lc-1 is a piece of crap, just buy a lc-2".

Oh yeah, sure thing....

Also this is the second time it broke. They already "fixed it" once. Also I am aware of their software F-up.

https://www.ecmtunin...lc1orlm1install

"Version Check: Please take note of the version of LM Programmer shown in the screenshots. There are newer versions (v3.19 and 3.27) that are shipping with the units that Innovate knows does not function as it should. For some reason, they do not mention this anywhere."

Thanks, the intercooler is a dead brand, I'll replace it one day but the pipes are super low volume. "Johnny Racecar" for those who remember.

Edited by TsTKl, 14 August 2017 - 01:42 AM.

proof it did run at one point...
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#69 natedog_37

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 11:18 AM

Nice keep it up.
Nathan
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#70 TsTKl

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Posted 05 December 2015 - 07:52 PM

Hey Guys,

I've been working on this slowly over the past year. Made a lot of progress on little things. I'm buying a home now with a garage that is closer to my work so I expect to make a lot more progress. Sorry for keeping you guys hanging for so long, 2016 will be the year though, I can feel it.
proof it did run at one point...
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#71 importwarrior

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Posted 07 December 2015 - 06:52 AM

Glad your still at it.

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#72 autotr8er2

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Posted 07 December 2015 - 11:56 PM

Don't give up
Does anybody offer Lay-away anymore?

#73 TsTKl

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 01:41 AM

Wow, I really can't believe it's been this long. I'll update this post and the photos this week with the current status.

edit:

So, one of the larger projects I've been able to complete recently is the fuel system. It appears photobucket now charges $400 per month, and that's not happening, so you'll just have to pretend on the photos until I decide on a solution.

I had a bunch of fuel components left over from my first car back when I was 16. I ended up deciding to do the following, and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I kept the factory tank and factory location walbro fuel pump. This allowed me to keep the factory fuel level gauge without modifications which is nice. That's where the stock bit's ended.

photo of sump tank

As you can totally obviously see above by the awesome photo, I fabricated up an all aluminum 1.5 gallon sump tank. This would be fed by the walbro, and has a return line going back to the tank that has an inline fuel pressure regulator for a carburetor. It is set to 6psi. It incorporates the mount for my aeromotive A1000 pump, and bolts to the floor just in front of the spare tire/main tank. There is a 100 micron pre pump filter for the aeromotive from summit, and then a 10 micron post pump filter.

photos of filters and mounting shenanigans

From the sump tank straight through to the main fuel pressure regulator, the line is all -10 AN. The fuel rail is from fuel injector clinic and is -10 or larger at all placed. The injectors are "1000cc" injectors from FIC as well. I believe they re-branded these to 950cc now, but whatever.

photo of fuel rail and stuff

The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the firewall, and has a -6 AN fuel line going back to the main tank via a bulkhead fitting. This was done to ensure that there is good thermal distribution. The A1000 advises not running with less than 10 gallons in the tank, as it can overheat the gas and cause it to boil from pumping so quickly. The other fix to this I'll be implementing will be a voltage regulator that keeps this pump at 10 volts below 3 psi of boost, and full battery voltage above that. Also, the A1000 is legitimately louder than the straight pipes I had on my 1g DSM, so reducing the voltage is a win-win as far as my ears are concerned.

The car is pretty close to being done. I still haven't decided on the steering, which is significant, but my expectation is that everything besides the steering and seatbelts will be done by the end of the year. Hopefully I'll have some more updates towards the end of the year. The only other "major" mechanical thing to do would be the radiator ducting, which is decently on it's way. There's some additional wiring that still needs to be done, but it shouldn't be too bad now that I've nearly memorized the wiring harness of this car.

Edited by TsTKl, 14 August 2017 - 10:30 PM.

proof it did run at one point...
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#74 TsTKl

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Posted 09 December 2019 - 01:22 AM

Well, clearly the end of 2017 has come and gone, as did all of 2018. A lot of work has happened on the car since my last post, but overall the progress has been slow. I decided to just go ahead and do the rear differential gear swap, I can't remember why. I'm glad I did though because the rear diff was incredibly dirty and now should be good to go. It was a nightmare finding all the right shims and everything to put everything back together. I also built new mounts for the rear diff since the sump tank is mounted right above the rear diff. The new mounts use a traditional "type A" bushing which encapsulates the bushing in metal. This means in the event the bushing fails there will be metal to metal contact preventing the diff from going too far into the sump tank. I was able to get a voltage regulator for the fuel pump I'm happy with. It's called a "buck converter" which works on a PWM signal rather than using resistance to reduce voltage. what this means is that a lot of the heat that would be generated with a typical voltage regulator doesn't get generated. I also built a capacitor circuit so when the fuel pump gets switched to high voltage it has a 3 second delay before it switches back down to low voltage. This will let shifting and other transient conditions not interrupt fuel delivery. I also installed evo 8 OEM "coil on plug" ignition. I couldn't find a good mount for the OEM 1g coil pack and transistor pack so I decided to switch to this OEM Evo 8 system. This drastically cut down on wiring and I built a clean mounting plate which really makes the engine bay look cleaner. As of right now I can't decide on how I will make the OEM tachometer work as this is the only functionality that I will lose. This also allows me to run any aftermarket Evo coil setup in the future if I so choose to. The OEM tach signal comes from a "nor gate" in the transistor pack so I may just replicate this circuit in the same PCB I used to add the delay circuit for the fuel pump voltage regulator and the speedometer signal converter.

A lot of other small details have been done over the past two years such as the radiator ducting, mounts for all of the wiring plugs, a complete rebuild of the pedal assembly mount (it flexed too much and I didn't like how the lines went through the firewall), an updated ECU/MPI relay mount, and more I can't think of right now. As of right now the dash isn't in the car which is due to some wiring that is giving me a few problems and needs to be diagnosed (the brake lights stopped working....). Once the dash is back in there will be little left to finish on the car. The most significant thing left will be the steering which most likely will end up being a heavily modified S2000 steering rack. 2020 really needs to be the year that I get this car running though, so expect some form of update here around the middle of the year.
proof it did run at one point...
Posted Image

#75 TexasQuest

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Posted 09 December 2019 - 12:30 PM

Thanks for the update. Would be nice to see some updated pictures too.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller


View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
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#76 TsTKl

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Posted 11 December 2019 - 12:02 AM

Any recommendation on hosting sites? I'm pretty sure I have more than 250 pictures in my photobucket so that's not an option. Also I forgot to mention I made an overly engineered battery tie down too. All aluminum, super lightweight all the bells and whistles I shouldn't be worried about anyways.
proof it did run at one point...
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#77 obsolete

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Posted 11 December 2019 - 12:11 PM

Imgur seems to be the best choice for photo hosting nowadays. Get that stuff off of Photobucket...
Buy the ticket, take the ride.

#78 TsTKl

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Posted 21 December 2019 - 03:32 AM

Hmm, it looks like none of my photobucket photos work anymore, so perhaps I'll have to go through and redo this whole thread at some point. I created an imgur account and added one photo in the meantime. Here's the evo 8 coil packs. I get an error when I try and use embedded images though of "you are not allowed to use that image extension on this community" however so perhaps my account settings have changed?

https://flic.kr/p/2i3gdSd

Edited by TsTKl, 21 December 2019 - 03:35 AM.

proof it did run at one point...
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