My 4g63 and t-56 swap (TONS OF PICTURES
Posted 12 August 2011 - 11:08 AM
Posted 14 August 2011 - 08:09 PM
Posted 14 August 2011 - 09:55 PM
DHM, I picked a 2g head, mainly for three reasons: I'm using an evo intake manifold and the ports line up. The whole 1g head thing is over rated, look at how much power evos on stock cylinder heads are putting down. 2g heads have better coolant passages or so I'm told.
It should spool up quicker etc but I don't think a human could really notice it. Maybe and hopefully I'm wrong.
Posted 14 August 2011 - 11:09 PM
While we had the car up in the air we made an exhaust and had the driveshaft made. The exhaust is a 2.75 inch first bend and flex section with everything else 3 inches. Pictures explain it better:
I don't have pictures of the back half of it, but thats the important part. The rest looks like a conquest exhaust. See:
Heres the driveshaft. I painted it with some gray spray paint I had. I didn't have any black paint and I'll never see the driveshaft, so it won't bother me. Again, no rust is the objective here.
I also completely disassembled and reassembled my oem throttle body. I was able to get ahold of some stainless steel button head screws so I could do the half shaft mod.
The majority of the stuff left is the small stuff. Its those little details that really make this build take longer than just bolting a motor into a car.
Edited by TsTKl, 26 August 2011 - 01:11 AM.
Posted 19 August 2011 - 02:52 AM
and then I needed a bracket to mount it. I found this when I was making my front crash beam lighter. Ironically the bolt spacing of my oil cooler is the same as the bolt spacing of the middle two bolts on the crash beam. The offset was exactly what I needed, and so I modified it to work. Heres the bracket with the painted oem radiator bracket:
Here it is mounted:
It has -8 an lines to the evo 8 oil filter housing.
Staying on the topic of cooling, I decided to re-wire my radiator. I discovered a dsm thermo-resistor thingy will thread into a stock starion radiator no problem. I like this idea much more than the oem because the dsm thermo thingy doesn't ground through the radiator itself, it has two pins. I think this will cause less electrolisys in the long run. Hopefully I'll get an aftermarket radiator before this thing is running but its not looking like that so this thing will have to do. Both fans turn on at the same time, and stay on until the temp has dropped 7 degrees F or so. Its a more advanced unit which is also slightly smaller so it will allow for more flow through the end tanks. I'm looking for a plug for the other side so I can remove the stocker one thats doing nothing.
Picture of it wired up:
Along with the radiator mod I needed to modify the stock water pump. I called up jay racing and asked them about a product they make. Specifically, this:
they make a ton of cooling solutions for 4g63s. If your doing a swap I suggest checking them out. I asked for one of these with no fitting welded on the end. This was so I could put a normal barb end on it for the radiator, as well as having my turbo coolant drain, throttle body coolant drain, heater core coolant drain flow directly into this. This allows your water pump to still flow coolant while the thermostat itself is closed during warm up. Prevents the water pump from killing itself. Here is mine modified. I'm going to chop off the turbo side and have a -6 an welded on, since I found some an fittings and SS line for my turbo. The other side is for both the throttle body and heater core. I'll get pictures of that later.
in the background you can see my inline oil filter for the turbo. Its from forced performance. It only comes in red for journal bearings and black for ball bearing turbos. I can't wait to get a ball bearing turbo so I can not have red in my engine bay. Cops LOVE red.
I'll come back and add the thermostat housing here soon
Edited by TsTKl, 26 August 2011 - 12:47 AM.
Posted 26 August 2011 - 12:59 AM
First thing that needed to happen was take all the oem crap out. I found this brake pedal bracket in the oem set up which is what gave me my idea for my mount:
As you can see here we are using the original braket to find the angle of the firewall to the steering wheel mount. I didn't use the holes on this bracket because I also made a spacer so the bracket isn't butted up against the oem firewall which isn't very flat. I used the stock brake booster spacer as my pedal assembly spacer. We milled it down to about 7/8". We then drilled slotted holes into the back so we could mount the assembly to the fire wall, and then find where the braket wanted to sit so I could drill the four holes in front for the steering wheel mount. The design is very simple.
This was before I painted it, but its just as good:
I had to modify the gas pedal. I have since modified it more, but you'll get the basic idea from looking at this photo. The throttle cable would have frayed if I had left it like this so I bent it back some.
Edited by TsTKl, 26 August 2011 - 01:01 AM.
Posted 26 August 2011 - 03:57 PM
Posted 27 August 2011 - 03:50 AM
three master cylinders: 90 each
fittings from summit: about 100-150
bias adjuster knob: 180 but you can get a plastic one for like 100 or so
bracket: homey hook up.
I still have to get the car together so I can make a pedal stop that prevents me from over extending my clutch slave cylinder, which is internal, built by tilton, and was exensive a f&#k.
Edited by TsTKl, 27 August 2011 - 03:51 AM.
Posted 27 August 2011 - 01:36 PM
Posted 28 August 2011 - 05:52 PM
Posted 30 October 2011 - 04:27 PM
Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:20 PM
It sounds like a lot, but compared to the distance I've come, there isn't too much left. I'm excited...
Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:39 PM
1jz/r154 stock twins for now.
Posted 24 July 2013 - 11:24 PM
As you can see, I fly cut the flange so it would be less likely to leak. A leak back there would be a huge pain to deal with.
I also welded up a -6 an fitting on a stock oil dip stick tube for positive crankcase pressure releif. The catch can I started building will self drain into this.
Lastly I mounted my LC-1 Wideband. I can switch between narrow band or wideband whenever I want. I'll start off with the narrowband as its less things to get working when I first start the car.
Not pictured but I also got an oddessy pc625 battery, and made some decent progress on the wiring.
Edited by TsTKl, 24 July 2013 - 11:25 PM.
Posted 06 August 2013 - 04:44 PM
1987 Conquest TSI, 5 spd, B71- 3" *DM Exhaust, Hooker ACM, Hood Struts, Taylor wires, silicone vac lines, fidanza, ACT Extreme, MK1 hard pipes, mbc (13psi), MK1 Shifter, MK1 steering wheel, silicone rad hoses, shp wheels - RIP
1991 BMW 318i - RIP
Posted 21 September 2013 - 03:06 PM
Edited by TsTKl, 21 September 2013 - 03:07 PM.
Posted 21 September 2013 - 08:51 PM
Posted 22 September 2013 - 03:08 PM
B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP
Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!
Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!
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