Going to be clearing out all my starquest stuff.. Keeping my Blue Mistress for me and the kid to work on when he gets older but have a motor swap planned.   So for the moment I'm trying to get a feel if there's any intrest in Stock parts and what not still   I have an engine < I need to check it over before i put it up as it has been sitting in the garage wrapped up for the past six years. which had just been dipped and touch honed, had a balanced assmbly with clutch and flywheel but the pi

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/ALONGWAY1_zpsd231780b.jpg   http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/ALONGWAY2_zps3c649db4.jpg   http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/ALONGWAY5_zps07476e4c.jpg   http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/ALONGWAY6_zps0a1a5759.jpg   http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/ALONGWAY3_zps989764f7.jpg   http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/ALONGWAY4_zps2b77db1a.jpg

Didnt want to take over the other post so made a new one here. I want to try to make an gustimation map of the stock timing curve.   For discussion sake lets say 15psi   Modifiers:   Vacume advance -7 degree per 1psi How much total advance with vac?   Distributor Weights with 2 springs strenths   Ignitor/Knock Upto -12 when detects knock? With knock sensor dissconnected -8   Colant temp/alt

I have my first R154 drive shaft that I had made. It was meant for a 4g63 swap moved 2" forward so it would most likely have to be shortened. It has a spicer slip yoke for 1310 u joints and stock Mitsu in the back. It's a little beat up from the rear u joints braking on me twice. I paid around $400 to have this made. $100 plus shipping and Paypal fee's