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Showing results for tags 'Engine'.
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Hey I am looking for a complete long block that I can drop in a shell. Let me know what you have, thanks.
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Hey all, trying to clean up all the junk from my parents garage that I dont want to move to mine. I have a lot of stuff. I dont mind shipping the small stuff, but bigger stuff would be for pick up only. All prices are plus shipping/ paypal fees. 88-89 240mm flywheels. 1 is the stock weight, the other has been lightened to 21.5 pounds. $60 for the stocker. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f79/philipbmckinney/IMG_20150628_201025194_zps0e7q7jeb.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f79/philipbmckinney/IMG_20150628_201049689_zpsvp2huyiv.jpg 2 known good starters. $ 20 each http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f79/philipbmckinney/IMG_20150628_180620446_HDR_zpsq0plwagq.jpg 88-89 6 bolt axles (3 definitely need rebuilt, 3 have cracks in the boots but havent ripped yet. Could be used as is, but I'd recommend new boots since they are off the car anyways $40 per for the good ones, the bad ones free to pick up, or 10 plus ship. (pending sale) UPDATE- I still have the good ones. I got a quote to oregon and it was about 51 shipped. If anyone is interested in them, I can ship out asap. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f79/philipbmckinney/IMG_20150628_152514149_HDR_zpsn5nq7fkb.jpg 3 Starter plates (I dont really know the right term?) $20 a piece http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f79/philipbmckinney/IMG_20150628_180354550_HDR_zpse46d144d.jpg 2 flywheel inspection plates $15 each http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f79/philipbmckinney/IMG_20150628_180458834_HDR_zpsqyl6bwrt.jpg I also have 2 engines. One came from a car with 80k miles. The guy did a bsek and didnt do something right, and it didnt have oil pressure. I did hear the motor run before i pulled it, it didnt knock, but had noisy lifters. It does have a non jet head and ARP head studs. $300 The other engine was a fresh rebuild, and didnt have oil pressure either. I heard it run before I pulled it, and again, no knock, but was noisy. Being a fresh rebuild that never ran correctly, i'd think you should plan to go through this motor pretty well. $175 Any questions feel free to pm or call/text me (804) 314-5938. Paypal is philipbmckinney@gmail.com I have more stuff ill be posting in coming days (turbos, turbine housings, an 88-89 rear end i believe, all kinds of other stuff) Any questions just let me know!
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I drove the car yesterday, and it started making horrible metal on metal clunking type sounds. I pulled over and looked around the engine bay, didnt see anything out of place, or oil or anything. I started the engine, and it still made horrible noises, but I couldnt identify where it was coming from, other than the engine, so I shut it off and had the car towed home. I pulled the valve cover, and found no problems. I tried to crank the motor over by hand, and its hanging up on the number 1 exhaust valve the valve gets about 1/2 way open when the motor doesnt want to turn over any further. What should I check, I dont have an engine hoist or lots of money, so pulling the motor isnt really a viable solution. I have no idea why this even happened, I wasnt at the drag strip or running the motor hard or anything, I just took a short trip, about 1 mile.
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I have a 1986 Dodge Conquest 2.6L Turbo Engine for sale. This engine has been rebuilt and never ran. The head is ported and the engine has been blueprinted and balanced. It also has the following: Forged pistons and rods Knife edged crank ARP head studs Stainless steel valves Heavy-duty valve springs asking $1500 for the engine I also have the body, good condition, immaculate interior, completely restored...body is sand color, interior is red...asking $3000 I really want these to be bought by someone who will love them. Please contact Casey with any questions and for photos. mrs.casey.graves@gmail.com or (904)405-3473 ****I have a bunch of detailed photos, but I can't even load one, says every file is too big...please feel free to contact me, and I will email or text photos right away, thank you****** -
I have a brand new engine from a non intercooled starion or conquest and I have no idea how to value it but don't really need it. Any advise on where to begin in placing a value on it? It is complete brand new turbo and all accessories.
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No affiliation. Craigslist ad in Winter Haven FL. http://lakeland.crai...4913431889.html Can't see the intake, but it does look like it has a pretty big turbo. Regardless, seems a bit expensive. But what do I know? Chris E.
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Looking for a "new" engine for my '87. Would prefer a built engine but would consider a low mileage stock engine as well. Also if I don't come across something I may consider a rebuildable core. I do not need the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, or turbo. Somewhere near North Carolina (NC), or within reasonable driving distance would be preferred.
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edit- body is gone. i have a lot of parts left. most engine stuff. soo, I had this car for resto, but gave up due to rust, and lack of funnds. I have everythiing to build a whole car, and then some. the only things I don't have are turbo, manifold, exhaust, and fuel pump. 89 manual trans, shifts perfect - 150 87 g54b long block, rebuilt by me, wiith new stock rings, bearings, valve seals, all gaskets.new stock head bolts, assembled with moly lube, and plastigauged all bearings. stock head was machined flat, and has jet valve eliminators. missing cam bolt .-450 car has full interior, dash is good, has one blemish in the center. all glass is perfect stock flywheel, like new stock clutch, and three more clutches that i was given. starter, alt, stock tbi, new stock engine mounts. the only things I'm not selling are the rims. a lot more than that...... all obo,+ shipping. unless you want the engine or trans shipped... txt at 586 209 8830, or email i2tall4abike@gmail.com don't bother pm'iing me. I forget to check. eveything is for sale, if you need it, just ask, it won't bother me, I promise..... picssss http://s1285.photobu...4abike/library/
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hey guy i am having a hard time understanding how loose the throttle cable has to be, i read it has to be 1mm loose is this correct? also how should it be loose like when i pull the cable like the slack or if you touch the cable side ways. when i press down on the cable with my finger it has more than 1mm of slack but if i pull the cabe with my fingers it has 1mm of slack. Could someone help me understand this better. Thanks
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Please forgive me if this is a duplicate. I thought I had already posted this but cannot find the original post. I am doing a Gen III 4.8 LS base LR4 swap in my 88 conquest. That being said the motor and tranny are up for sale. I really dont want to break it up so if you offer to buy something separate from the two combined please bee sure it's worth my wild . The engine and tranny will come with whatever you need. Wiring, ECU, shifter, etc, etc, etc... The only thing that will remain stock is the rear end, wheel shafts and interior. I am actually thinking of changing the instrument cluster so I may sell it to the right buyer. I may also be willing to sell the digital climate control cluster as it will probably no longer have A/C anymore. Wheels and tires are for sale as well. If you want just the wheels which were just sent off to Cali and refinished about 5 years ago I'll take $500. They are the factory staggered set. If you want the tires to remain they literally have less than 500 miles on them. Kumho Excsta's. Wheel tire combo will be $900. Anything engine and transmission related I want to keep together as it is a good running motor and tranny. Anyways, forgive me again if this is a duplicate. You can email me directly @ tofosmotors@gmail.com I hope it is ok to mention this as well if not we can always tie me to the whipping post . I also have a few toys to sell. 1. 1991 Camaro RS V8 65,000 original miles. Cruise, tilt, A/C, Auto, T-Top $5K 2. 1994 Indianapolis 500 Edition Pace Car Ford Mustang Cobra Convertible (Interesting fact. In 1994 to build customer interest the 1000 Indy 500 pace cars were the first 1000 mustangs to come off the assembly line) Loaded, leather, Mach 460 Stereo (Still awesome by today's standards) It's a 5.0, GT40 heads cobra. The only thing not stock is a $1200 Bassani exhaust and MSD Dist. cap and rotor button. (Still have both originals that will come with the car) $15K 3. 1991 Honda Civic CRX Si. No rust, couple pings, and interior needs some TLC. $2.5K 4. 1983 GMC S15 High Sierra 4X4. 57K original miles. It is a 2.8 V6 with 700R4 Tranny. I Replaced EVERYTHING that goes bad sitting as it has been sitting for the last 12 years. New Brake lines, fuel lines, gas tank removed and beaded clean, new belts, hoses, transfer case switch, 4wd actuator, vacuum lines, interstate battery, transmission filter and fluid, rear end and transfer case oil, New tires (Kumho Ventures), repainted entire interior. There is a spec of surface rust just beneath the gas filler cap, and the hood has some tree residue on it (I think it can be buffed out). If interested I have video of the car running, forward and reverse to check tranny and the drive down the street to the garage I am doing the motor swap at. Also pictures to the other vehicles I have listed. again that is tofosmotors@gmail.com Thanks guys for looking.
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Up for sale is the engine from my 1988 Conquest. I have finally decided to bite the bullet and make the swap to a Gen III 4.8 GM V8. The eingine has 180K on it. Still runs perfect with no issues. I am selling it and the transmission. I have photos and a video of it running prior to it's removal. If your serious about wanting it shoot me a message or email and I will send you the photos and video. I will take $1500 for both. If shipping is involved it will be ENTIRELY at the buyers discretion. The following is a list of new parts prior to me removing it. All parts are less than one year old. Alternator Bosch O2 Sensor MAF. Will come with an extra one. NGK Platinum Spark Plugs (2 Months Old) Performance Plug Wires Chrome MSD HO Coil Rotor Button Distributor Cap Distributor (Will include spare) Points Injector Clips (Bought off SQC) Temp Sensor Valve Cover Gasket Injector Rebuild Camshaft Seal All New Belts Turbo Gasket Set If need I can include motor mounts, trans mount, shifter with boot, etc... anything I wont be using after the swap. It will also come with the computer as well. If anyone is interested in the instrument guages I will also be selling those as well. I'm sure there's more I'm not thinking of atm. I am going to change my profile but if it doesn't take for the post I now live in Morganton, NC I'f you have any questions please feel free to ask. storageguy71@gmail.com Thanks for looking.
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I'm selling a complete engine and transmission out of an 88 Starion with 88K miles to make way for a 2JZ swap. Turbo needs to be rebuilt and the starter is not included in the sale. It's located in West Palm Beach area and I am willing to ship at buyer's expense (typically $200 for engine and tranny). I'm asking $650 and the engine and transmission will be pulled when I have a buyer. Willing to separate. Thanks
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Hey everyone, I am looking into getting a starion and was wondering if an engine swap would be worth the trouble if I got one. I was originally thinking just doing a 4g63 swap, but then I heard about the de-stroked 4g64, which gives 2.1l displacement and around an 11000 rpm redline. Would either of these motors be worth the trouble or should I stick with a g54b starion? The other option would be dohc g54b. Also if anyone is selling a starion, let me know please. Thanks.
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1987 Starion parts car with salvage title. This car was hit in the back while at an intersection at a dead stop. 68k miles on engine and transmission. Car does roll and was running when pulled into my garage 2 years ago but I have taken off the fuel injector and fuel pump so it does not run. The doors do not close so that gives you and idea of the damage on the back. There is no air dam on the front, I have used it on the one I have rebuilt but all the rest of the front end body parts are there. $600 is the price. I am not interested in parting out, I really do not have the time to mess with it. I also do have my finished car up for sale, it looks great and has 78k miles and everything works on it, even the antenna. It's been fun to work on in the past 2 years and have had a good time driving it, but on to the next project. Price on that is $6500. Send me and email if you are interested in parts car and I will forward pics. Interior is black leather, manual transmission. Pics of both cars are on Craigslist Chicago Illinois. Rosepeeper@aol.com
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I'm parting out the engine and transmission of a 88 Conquest. Odometer shows 69,xxx miles. The engine was still full of nice green antifreeze. I bought the car not running, so condition is unknown. I was told it needed a starter. When I pulled the engine, it was missing a starter bolt allowing the starter to move away from the block and flexplate. Oil was old but was not milky. Turbo a little dry but manually turned smooth. Now for some prices. Long block $250, Intake with injectors $75, Turbo $75, Distributer $50, Intercooler $40, Transmission $100, Auto Shifter with linkage $50, Alternator $15 Radiator $50. Shipping is not included in the prices listed. If I did not list something you need, just ask. I have all parts right now since I'm doing a V8 swap. Thank for looking! Scott
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/230973494251?item=230973494251&viewitem=&vxp=mtr I'm starting my 2jz swap and have a great motor and transmission combo up for sale! It is listed on eBay and Craigslist for the same price, and the links for both ads are here! http://pensacola.craigslist.org/pts/3762537976.html -
Well this time is for real. Kicking myself for not already having the v8 swap done now!! The motor i purchased turned out to be a turd and has at-least some burnt valves and i got it as is. Not even interested into tearing into it honestly. So Its either v8 or im selling the whole car. Parts all for sale below! Make me a kick tail offer so i can move these parts!!! Shipping not included with these prices!! Paypal is Detriuch@gmail.com PM me if interested!!!! 1. 20g Tdo5h turbo. Has silver powder coated exhaust housing (inlet housing has a hairline crack about 2 inches but doesn't leak and still boost fine. Could swap out a housing if you really wanted to for around 100ish bucks) bolts right up to our manifold and down pipe. only about 4k miles!! $400 OBO 2. LC1 Wide-band 02 Sensor with Gauge and wiring. Just needs a new bung to weld in your pipe $ 110 OBO 3. Boost gauge (reads vacuum and up to 30lbs i think) $20.00 OBO 4.Safc 2 Controller with extended Harness $200.00 OBO 5. 2 Distributors. One with new rotor cap and new vacuum advance $ 60.00 OBO each 6. 2 factory style Fuel Pressure Regulator. One is pretty new! $30.00 obo for the newer.$ 15.00 for older one. 7. 88-89 ecu in 1987 case $60.00 OBO 8. Starter $35.00 OBO 9.Alternator $60.00 OBO Only a few months old 10. powder coated stressed relieved Factory Turbo Manifold $100.00 OBO 11.2gen dsm turbo air flow meter with filter adapter and Factory plug $70.00 OBO 12.Factory Front Mount Inter cooler $50.00 OBO 13. (1) 1987 Starquest Knock control Box $40.00 OBO 14. Accel Ignition Coil $20.00 OBO 15. 1987 5 spd transmission. Shifts decent $150.00 OBO 16. 1987 Starquest flywheel (needs resurfacing) $20.00 OBO 17. NGK Spark Plug wires $12.00 OBO 18.Hard-pipes for factory inter-cooler (Upper/lower with couplers Type S style bov and clamps) $200.00 OBO 19. Trilogy injectors with spacers 850/950. (only used for about 2 months)Need new o rings at the top though from pulling them out!! (fuel filter and pump/strainer was changed before install!!!$80.00 OBO 20. 2.5 inch down pipe with 2 bungs and with turbo gasket $ 55.00 OBO 21. Intake Manifold without sensors $ 25.00 OBO 22. Intake Manifold (Silver powder-coated without sensor) $40.00 OBO 23.Tps Sensor $45.00 OBO 24.ISC $55.00 OBO 25. Conquest Taillights in ok shape $40.00 OBO 26.I have 2 G54B engines. one has bad compression.( I think due to a burnt valve or 2) comes with arp studs. and more than likely other goodies inside. the other Has the rocker towers removed and needs either rings or valve stem seals. It smoked on Deceleration. Had great compression when pulled though!! No accessory's on either!!!. $250.00 OBO Takes them both!! (WILL NOT SHIP THESE!!)
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So, I stopped procrastinating and did the head gasket this weekend, probably about my 10th in 16 years. I guess I've got a few little things I always do that might be of help to somebody else. If so, cool. A lot of us have done these, but not everybody. >Get the head resurfaced if you have the time/money. That said, I've done it probably twice..not a requirement usually if the head is in good shape... but a best practice. >Use painter tape to label the sensor connections or whatever connections you can't remember or are confusing. (Pri inj, sec inj, top temp sensr, TPS,etc) Once you do that, pulling it apart will be less mentally stressful, although it's not really too big of a deal, only about 7 connections. After a few times you may not need the tape, LOL. >Leave the mainfolds on. Don't bust up your knuckles trying to get under the manifolds. Once the sensors, coolant lines, vac lines and throttle cable are loose, unbolt the downpipe and unbolt the ring clamp around the turbo cartridge. Tap the conpressor with a rubber mallet and it will pop off, leaving all the lines connected. There, saved you a big mess. Now the manifolds are your handles to pull the head. >Pull the valve cover and mark the distributor position with a marker across the gear and shaft. No need to get TDC, just make sure the lines line up when you put the dist back in. >When you pop the head off, have some cardboard ready to place it on. With the manifolds on it, the head surface won't touch the ground though. >Look at everything and make sure there aren't any cracks or damage you can see. Do a little detective work and see if you can find out where the gasket failed... and why. >Look for two round pegs, one at the front, one at the rear corner. These locate the head and prevent you from blowing a gasket in 5 minutes. If you don't see one, check if it got pushed into the head. >Get your sctoch brite and clean up the block surface and head. Go easy on the head, don't use something that will gouge or cut the metal at all. Keep crap out of the cylinders. >Avoid AJUSA metal gaskets. I know I know, but they are easy to blow if you ever get hot. Not from the cylinders, but around the oil/coolant passages. Go for the high quality FelPro composite gasket, it's less likely to fail that way. Hey, this is just my observation!
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Well I got the Starion sold to a good home and now it's time to clear out the remaining SQ parts. All parts fit/are from an 89 model. All prices are plus shipping. 2. GM MAF & Translator with Plug. Also includes a $50 K&N Air filter that could use a cleaning but is not damaged at all. All units work fine. $180 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/10b76405.jpg 4. Brand New Monroe Dynamics Front brakes, Set of 4 -- $25 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/bdf5feda.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/307bf664.jpg 5. A/C Compnents & Emission Components -- Price Negotiable. Don't need much here, just make it worth my time to pack and ship http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/992ef0ba.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/54b8d437.jpg Longblock motor with timing cover, water pump, and pulleys. --Paid $1500 to have it built. Still have all receipts --Rebuilt less than 30k miles ago --Was not beaten on and never saw over 14lbs of boost. Mostly saw about 10 --Balance Shaft elimination kit --Head was disassembled, decked, cleaned, and reassembled --New oil pump and bearings --Small oil leak from rear main. Simple to replace when out of the car --Includes oil pan and everything pictured Asking $600, will take offers http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/Untitled-2.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/Untitled-1.jpg 89 Manual Transmission --New Lucas gear oil, throw out bearing, and trans mount attached --Always shifted smooth Price: $220 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/6E6905D4-060C-4AB5-88C8-EA7379FAC775-38527-00002071FF6B3A4A.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/4DCF0B06-AA1A-4397-8DCD-2B7FFE1E02FE-38527-00002072093D4E57.jpg Radiator with fans and shrouds --Very recently recored --Fan motors work fine, thermosensors recently replaced --Never had overheating issues with it Price: $100 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/BCA889D2-D0E1-4C8D-AFD9-560BF314616A-38527-00002071D833CACF.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/A7403CD3-0AF9-4A34-8130-04FAF9500897-38527-00002071CDB792B6.jpg Rear wheels with almost brand new Yokohama AVID tires. --Less than 100 miles. Tires cost me $300. Asking $300 for tires and wheels. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/763EB2EA-F5D6-496C-AD27-76F6A72C2731-38527-00002072C381F931.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/AE099CA8-D829-4D73-9660-B7D55E0599CF-38527-00002072C049E581.jpg Stock Intercooler Price: $40 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/71439928-AC51-454F-A50C-0C8158FBE812-38527-00002071F58FCA7C.jpg Driveshaft with low mileage U-Joints. Price: $70 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/72966FE0-AB0F-480D-A654-9FDD323CE584-38527-00002071EA7F02DC.jpg -
im looking for a 88 - 89 ecu to upgrade my 87 with let me know what you have thanks
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Hey Starquest! I am finally beginning the start of my Ls1 swap for next drift season! But I am low on funds and need to part with the old power plant to pay for the fab work. I want to sell it as a package but could split tranny and engine if some one is interested... Specs: Rebuilt roughly 35k ago ( Removed oil pan before putting into my car, looked very good) 14g turbo balance shaft elimination Forged internals Will include 1986 intake manifold if wanted as well as I don't need it. Basically anything g54 related you may want from the bay can go with as a package deal. Motor runs like a champ, and very reliable, got me to high school and back everyday with zero problems. Tansmission: The transmission is also in good condition, shifts fine Has a competition clutch, stage four puck clutch and pressure plate. Also lightened flywheel ( helps these truck motors spool and actually rev up ) I really don't know what these are worth so shoot me an offer Also have a full black leather interior minus the seats for sale. I would really like to deal local but I am aware that will probably not happen. PM on here or text 425 773 0769. My name is Jackson -
I need to get rid of an 87 conquest I have sitting in my neighbor's yard. It is white with red leather interior. It is missing the top end on engine. block, wheels, sensors, complete body and full interior still there. I would like $700 but shoot me offers. I say parts only because the car has not been registered for 7 years and the guy I got it from lost the tittle when he moved. I did not want to go through the DMV hassle here so I was going to use it for parts. I am getting rid of my cars so I no longer need this. I will take some pictures as soon as I can.
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Ok as title says i have been reading up on project zero g about a 4g63 swap into a quest i might be getting in a month or less. Now what has me confused is the wiring. It doesnt state what ecu to use i may just be having a brain fart when i read it or just over looking it. Do I use the DSM ecu with DSMlink (i have a couple laying around) or use an AEM or what? I know how to do the wiring merger on the B-38 and all but just confused on the ECU. Someone elighten me on this thing so i know if its worth it or not lol. Any advise on the swap is needed to like how to do motor mounts and the stuff to mount engine in i know how to do the tranny stuff and all also.
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I would really really appreciate it if someone could tell me where i can buy just the cylinder head? if possible through ebay cuz im in canada and i dont have time to deal with contacting back and fourth but its fine too, i need to know a brand that i can trust i wont get screw over, i am a total newbie, i love this car, i got it for 3500$ and put in 1700$ to fix it already but now my mechanic said he cant repair my cylinder head cuz its cracked, im in university and basicly broke so i need to kno where i can just get the cylnder head that is good and cheap and i can get it quick if possible? my car is a 1986 PLymouth Conquest, Technica i have no idea what my engine is, other then that its a 4g54b or sumtin, i would really appriciate it if someone would take the time to tell me all about my car and trim too! i absolutely love this car and dont want to give up on it but the parts for it, especially where i live is nearly impossible to find!
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Hi i need a running engine for my '87 widebody. The one i was gonna buy isnt available anymore and i need one badly. I'm in Washington near Seattle so just p.m. me if you have anything for me.
