lonestarion

ding ding ding ding: we have a winner..... http://www.tein.com/ss1damp.html this is what the custom kit will be based off of. salesperson told me, expect to pay a similar price as a 240sx kit. which is around $1700

tried to post a pic, nothing happend.from what im reading on their web site, it looks like this program is just days away or is already underway. ill give them a hollar 2mro and see what kicking on this. if the program has started, i will post the info asap.

toyota,nissan, mitsubishi and other foreign car makers didnt just open shop over night to their product out the doors here in the U.S.A. lots of legal red tape before they started, look how long it took them to get factories/assembly plants over here (not over night) this program started about mid year of 06 in japan. i dont know every little detail they had to translate from japanese to english for this program to start over here. i do know US lawyers & japan lawyers dont speak the same language, nor (like us on this site) agree to contracts or company liability stipulations (whatever they may be) 100% of the time. in car world talk. if i were to install their product and this company doesnt have their liabilty stipulations in order, and i total my car due to a "fault in design" for instance (hopefully not) they can be sued and would stand to loose a huge amount of money. yes it would, i would be elated to post pics of the kit. but if i did that know everyone would be calling this company for a relase date on this program. which i havent even been told yet. and everyone would know just by the struts alone and ther color who this company is. if this program get unplugged then i will let everyone know which company it is

you must have only read the first post in the topic.

you can look their site up & down you wont find on there. I have not stated the company's name just for the reason that others wont step on my toes on this project. and the 2 engineers will be using my 88 to test/tune the kit to suit the car AND NO, ITS NOT bullstinky, as I know what i have in the works. do you know what i have in the works. none of you in that *DM click dont stay in contact so none you would know. 1 im not making the strut kit, a world wide known company is. their usa branch has the starion strut specs from a previous program. all they are waiting on is the green light for the custom strut program to start over here, it was started last year in japan. converting all the legal issues from japanese to english for this program to start over here takes time. its not something that can just start overnight. 2 only 3 or 4 people were interrested in a cast aluminum a/c braket. so i put that aside as most are removing a/c and using a gm 1 wire. so whats the use in wasting time & money on somthing that most dont need 3 im not making a carbon fiber hood nor have i said i was making 1. and about posting on *DMperformance.com, my last dozen or so post/replys havent showed up on that site so i just quit posting & going to it. I can do my own with the use of that site, which I am. I'm getting quotes now for cast & fabricated aluminum rear control arms making my own programs this week for cnc aluminum pullys also.

ever get a weight on these frams,crossmembers?

cool grill mod guess you dont have to worry bout overheating anytime

stop wasting time & read this link, this is soon to happen http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=6815

put a sticky on a step by step cam degree process... with pics. start off with a pics & a list of parts needed to do this....

i have always heard that numericaly square block are better for high HP. look @ V8 specs not all are suare (bore to stroke wise) but most are very very close just like the g54. i never had any doubts these blocks couldnt produce BIG HP #'s, most people dont build the block the way it should for these #'s(O ring,balencing, & so-on). if we could get a complete head onto a flow bench, start out with porting. hundreds of hours could be spent just fine tuning the intake ports just to gain 5-15hp, the same with the exhaust side. when you max the flow out then start working on the cam. turbo'd engines love duration, lift doesnt really affect HP "to much" in most cases some lift is needed, but rarely .500" is ever needed. maybe we do need to mod the intake port floor? maybe a 4v head is needed? it wouldnt be very hard to design us a new 4v sohc or dohc head. a few CAD programs can even flow test on the computer. check out www.cadalyst.com all kinds of cad programs from price ranges of $500-$8000 maybe we need to start bringing ideas from the dash engine, 3valve head from japan? could we modify the jet valve to actualy be a 3rd valve? the quest for more HP just doesnt happen over night. it might take sevral weeks,months or even a few years.

its nice when you have sevral hundred thousand $$$$$$ to dump into and say "look @ us, we can drift also....." http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=6815 hope this gives you guys a little bit of hope

have it tig welded, minimum tensil strength of a tig weld is around 80,000psi. no way any suspension on any car street driven will develop that amount even in torsional strength. so if you are going to use coil overs i wouldnt worry about having a weak spot. just make sure a reputable welder does the welding, and you have nothing to worry about.

a single link comback

a good machinist can fix the offset. dont know how much they would charge for that. but IT can be done. 8) 8)

HERE YA GO, some people just dont look hard enough.... http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=6815

guess both would work great. but 1 thing i notice that was left out of "MOST" engine builds and/or newbie owners section. was to have these surfaces checked for streightness. but, 1)how good is a gasket with a specific amount of crush capability? even with machined or "restreightend" surfaces. 2) graphite doesnt tranfer heat. stainless and other metals do. im thinking, if I have to pay somewhere in that area of 50-100$ for this product, just to keep heeat off or away from my aluminum head. i think its worth it, though i dont know the exact cost i think this company has alot of growth with just this 1 type of product alone. what are you're views/opinons on these 2 statements?

as a few may know, i read up on diesel performance know & then. only to see what technology will apply to our gas burners. this is 1 of a the sites i ran across. heres what they make and what they use to make it. exhaust gaskets only, custom make "ANY" gasket, only material they use is graphite. its a small website so it wont take long for you guys/gals to read thru it www.remflex.com

aluminum hard pipes would be something im after. I love the anodizing on aluminum

true, it is costly to machine gears. but the hobbing method is very time consuming. i have done edm machining, the newer machines a quiet fast, though the thickness of and the type of material do play a roll in how fast the machine can cut. waterjet, now that would be the way to cut gears up to a certain thickness of course. any1 have +/- opinions on this process?

this was ment as a reply, can 1 of the mods move or attach this to the right topic.. why not just have all new gears cut out of better material to replace the stock cast gears. this way we can have a different ratio in all 5 gears. it would cost quiet a bit more but the durability will be 50x greater along with better mileage. i would be interedted in a new gear set. the right machinist can cut these on an EDM and would only have to bevel the edges like stock gears, maybe harding the gears after that. the machining isn't the costly part. its making the program to cut whatever needs to be cut take most of the time. i could make the program but i dont have a spare tranny or the gears.

nice work, great idea, but i see ALOT..... of aluminum in sombodys oil pan in the very near future... the stock 1's are cast steel/iron make the gear ring from a good hard grade of steel a400 to chrome-moly

heat treating isnt the same as stress relieving. 321 stainless doesnt require heat treat but the closer you get to 300 the more it needs to be heat treated. when a material is welded you change the structure around the heat affected zone, heat treating brings the the material to the same structure, thus eliminating the chance for stress fracture. stress comes from a material(header for example) that is locked into a set positon and is cycled through a heating/cooling process. when any metal is heated(welded) its gona bend,twist and move. this process inturns locks a set amount of stress into a header. then without stress relieving and heat treating, the weld area will prematurely crack. stress relieving unlocks this set amount of stress. so you see heat treating "IN A WAY" is the similar as stress relieving. but they have 2 different definitions and shouldnt be consisderd 1 in the same process. i have been fabricating,welding metal (mild steel,aluminum,stainless)in fabshops,machine shops,shipyards,aircraft for 18 years. yes i do know the difference between the 2, and whoever told you that both where the same thing is wrong. not try'n to degrade you or the work your doing, just letting you know the difference and that both are not the same nore have the same process. so everythings kosher with me, keep on keep'n on....

pic still doesnt work for me...... :x

I'VE GOT 1 QUESTION? WHERE ANY OF CHADS OR ANYBODY ELSES HEADERS HEAT TREATED? MORE THAN LIKELY NONE OF THEM WHERE. thats why they crack. i have worked in machine shops, fab shops, and even with boeing aircraft. stainless that will be exposed to heat was always heat treated, even titanium. no heat treat will 99% of the time produce a crack somewhere on the product, no matter how much you stress relive the product. heat treating is simple and doesnt cost very much to do if you have a bulk order to treat.

im looking to do this on my 85, problem is i have a 4 wire maf sensor. also why not use the maf trans. wide band 02,and an SAFC ? or couldnt the SAFC be used as a translator? how does the SAFC hook up, anybody know?