Chad

replied

The bars are inch by quarter inch chromoloy steel, they flex a little but won't bend easily. Just two flat bars with holes drilled in them to space the cross member forward. Worked so well, when I pulled the motor the trans hung from the bars and didn't bend them like it would if they were standard mild steel. You can buy this material at lots of places, I used mcmaster.com, part number 6554K113 . that had enough leftover material to make the upper braket to attach the clutch pedal frame to the unibody. Your angle iron solution is probably fine if you used material that is adequately thick.

Need to downsize parts stash. Will consider offers on all items if you don’t like my price, but no low-ballers please. $60 1@ 88 ECU in 88 box $60 1@ 88 ECU in 87 box $30ea 2@ 86 TSI ECU $10 ea 2@ 86 ES ECU $10 ea 3@ 86 MAP sensor on fire wall $10 ea 1@ 86 MAP sensor switch next to MAP $40 1@ 88 Ignitor, tested good with harness cut $20 1@ 86 Ignitor, tested good with harness cut $20=all 3@ 86 Ignitors, untested but all presumed good $40 1@ 1gen DSM MAS with good boot, tested good $25 1@ 86 MAS with good boot, tested good $10 1@ K&N Air filter for stock air box, 15,000 miles with recent clean/recharge with genuine K&N recharge oil. $35 1@ 88 ETACS, known good with harness cut $5 ea 2@ Stereo harness for repairing butchered stock harness $60 1@ 88 Stereo console and stereo bezel with pocket, great condition $60 1@ 86 Stereo console and stereo bezel with pocket, great condition $20 1@ 86 Stereo bezel, couple scratches but no cracks $30 1@ 125 K speedo/cluster $30 ea 2@ Black Gage hood with side switches in great shape, untested but presumed good 1 sold $15 1@ Black Gage hood with side switches, couple small scratches, untested but presumed good $10 1@ Black Gage hood switches only, untested but presumed good $45 1@ Black 88 Center arm rest console, very good shape, good latch pending pictures/buyers approval $30 1@ Black 86 Center arm rest console, broken lid latch and swollen lid, still not bad looking. $25 1@ Black 86 Style center console coin pocket and mirror switch $50 1@ Black 86 Seat belt kit to eliminate broken track belts, no trim $65 1@ Black 86 Seat belt kit to eliminate broken track belts, no trim With upper mount trim $80 1@ Steering box, no leaks or slop $45 1@ torque tube shaft and splined coupler (no tube/flange). Very slight play, didn't hear/feel in car, but it's there. better than most, but not perfect $300 1@ 88 Manual transmission conversion kit, contains: Clutch pedal assembly and custom made hanger bracket Narrow manual brake pedal, needs rubber cover Clutch hard and soft lines and slave and master cylinder Driveshaft with recent U-joints, very nice condition but some surface rust 240 MM stock flywheel, recently surfaced, couple hundred miles since surface 240 mm E-bay 3 stage clutch pressure plate, only couple hundred miles Damaged disc, get a new disc and you have a nice clutch. Lots of life left 88 Transmission, road tested, shifts nice, tight, no noise. Input shaft seal could use replacement Rear cross member with torn trans mount, you want a new one anyway. Stock shifter and rubber Shifter boot Chromoly Cross member relocation bars Ships on a small pallet, buyer to pay actual cost, will help find least cost option. $110 1@ Manual drive shaft with solid GMB u-joints, only 8 miles since rebuild. Painted blue $300 1@ HKS 225 mm flywheel, very rare. Only 9.6 pounds, made of ductile iron $50 1@ 88 Intercooler, usual bent fins but no bent tubes or trashed, easily made very nice. $20 1@ Ignition key assembly with trunk too [no doors], 2 OEM keys $400 1@ 88 Cloth Black tan interior, nice but not perfect. includes: pending pictures/buyer approval Driver/pass seats Rear seat bottoms and backs Rear shoulder and side panels Vanity style visors Door skins Center mirror Overhead dome light trim Side stereo trim panels Door sills Ships on a small pallet, buyer to pay actual cost, will help find least cost option. $50 1@ Non-intercooled black side moulding rub strips, rare dealer option $30 1@ Windshield wiper Deck garnish no cracks $20 1@ Windshield piper deck garnish, slight sun rot but no cracks $60 1@ Monroe GT2 struts front/rear, low mileage, no springs/tops (available if you want them) $50 1@ 88 Gas tank, no rust $50 1@ 86 Gas tank, no rust Prices do not include shipping, I'll work with you on best options. Prefer UPS, USPS, and USPS priority flat rate. Accepting money orders or pay-pal. Pay-pal requires an additional 4 % added to the final cost to cover their fees. Will make deals on multiple-item package deals. Pictures only provided for serious buyers ready to pay and need confirmation of condition. Don’t have time or access to host pics, or send endless emails for all this stuff. Please PM to keep the topic clutter free. No dibs with out deposit. Will update daily as parts are sold.

that's retail, it motivated me to choose another line of work. Now what I know = dollas. Makes work more rewarding, even though there are still politics and BS, and stupid co-workers [those issues are universal]. Keeping a job because it's safe may feel like the right thing to do, but ask yourself if that safety is really worth what it's costing you. For some it is, like those with a family to support, or in a particularly bad job market, but for a young single man, I'd argue now is the time to make changes that benifit your future self. You are only young and 'free' once. I think if you really ask most of us that have desirable jobs or careers, you will find we've all been thoguh where you are at, it's just that we moved though/past that point. Gotta pay your dues, but you also have to know when to cash in on those dues. Sometimes those dues are gettign an education, sometimes it's doign the dirty job no one else wants, some times its kissing butt, just realize there is a time and way were that can be cashed in. Imagine yourself doing this when you are 36, if you cant' see it, you need to make plans to get out of your situation. Doesn't have to be right away, but don't wait for the solution to come to you, life doesnt' work like that. Chin up, see this as a learning experiance. Those are dues you are paying, think of a way to cash in on them.

got nothin to do with flex, the hardening improved the hardness of the wear surfaces, less likely to gaul under load or scuff with any oil impurities. A propperly oiled hardened crank should outlast the car. non hardened ones will slowly wear.

I used 2 fuel pump gaskets (cause they are thin) and some RTV on mine. Also done the "cut it yourself" and RTV method. Both worked well.

they are deleted when you advertize a banned members serivces.

The whole unibody was acid dipped, unibody panels in the rear have been removed or "swiss-cheesed". It's a unibody with a chromoly cage, motor and trans, not much else. even the front and rear sub frames were acid dipped and zinc'd for weight reduction. If you've ever parted a car out to unibody level, you'll know this is a realistic figure. I don't like the way it's steering feels, but it also has a 12" quick release steering wheel, and a very different seating posisition (further forward and higher). feels nothing like a stock car.

it was modified in the race shop, not a factory setting. It's also 500 pounds lighter than stock. Not sure what value there is in comparing that car.

How does excess oil presure make it's way past the timing cover seal? the pump gasket and timing cover gasket are not connected. The only way for that timing cover gasket to "blow" is if it were torn, defective, or under torqued, with excess crankcase pressure. A blown oil pump gasket woudl dump oil into the pan, not outside the motor.

There have been several members over the years that have had their filters blow up, most with engine damage resulting. Most will lose their rear turbo oil seal rather quickly if the pressure is consistatntly high, and almost instnatly if they use an aftermarket domestic turbo. These motors were not starved for oil by design, so adding more is a wasted of time and causes mroe problems if you actually throw more pressure or volume at it. We already have a special high flow pump from the factory, no need to do more than that. Those that have had bearing damage didn't need more pressure, they needed cleaner oil, more of it in the motor [underfilled], better driving practices, or better baffles in the pan. I have a crank on my bench that has 200K on it that is still in spec, the motor doesn't have a bad oiling design.

unless you have a thin wall sheet metal intake, put it in the IC pipes. Those thick cast intakes like the magna and mose OEM intakes have a lot more thermal mass, they will heat soak the sensor as stated.

yah, you can still get it to spin out OK, even with massive lightening. The problem iwth removing too much is the counter to each weight is off to the side, on the adjacent bore. this will tend to distort the crank between the opposign forces. They are placed there so the counters are not offset like that. the difference is very small, but spin it up to redline and it becomes a lot worse. the balance is still neutral along the whole axis of the crank, but there are distorting forces between bores. The main purpose of those weights is to counter the movement of the piaton an drod shocking the crank upon combustion. If the combustion process were not so violent, the wouldn't be needed. They act a lot like a heavy flywheel vs. a light one. Goign light allows distortions to set in, but if you are going all out on the motor, that won't cause problems since you are probably tearing the motor down preventivly anyway. Heavy cranks = smooth long lasting motors.they also ruin throttle response and eat up some HP [not a lot].

http://www.hensonracingengines.com/Crankshaft_Balancing.html I gusss you can put bob weights on an inline motor, but it won't help anything, the balance will come out the same. If they do help, you did it wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/kiiGJq4IFvo Want to buy some death sticks?

I get what you are saying, but that misses most of the point here. How is a crank spin balanced? Not with rods/pitons on it. When a machinist balances your crank, he doesnt' ask how much your pistons/rods weight, cause it doesn't matter. all four journals have the same weight and are exactly out of phase, so they cancel each other out. front/back cancels middle and vice/versa. The crank is spin balanced wtih no rods/pistons, and the pistons/rods are balanced without the crank. You can lighten the crank without upsetting the balance of the rods/pistons, just as you can get lighter aftermarket rods/pistons and not have to reblance/lighten the crank.

the crank doesn't balance the rods, the rods balance themselves. 1 & 4 balance 2 & 3. the crank weights balance the rod journals. By removing a lot of mass from the weights without removing weight from the rod journal ends, you are upsetting the balance of the crank down it's axis. It will still be weighted equal overall, but will want to twist the crannk out of shape, 1 & 4 will still balance 2 & 3, but there will be a tug-of-war between them. The crank will want to take an excentric orbit down the line of the crankshaft at each main opposite of the rod journal, which is hard on bearings. Puts alot of stress on the crank since the crank too has uneven forces on it. Its fine for a motor that has a quality forged crank (like ours are) and is race driven where this can be spotted and addressed durign annual tear downs, but not well suited for a daily driver, or even most weekend racers. It's also directly related to how often you rev it out, the imbalance is minimal at cruise RPM's, but the distortion forces greatly increase as you increase RPM's. It's a good mod when you are doing "everything", but not a good mod if you are just lookign for a decent performance rebuild, better things to spent that $$ on.

a large t3 is smaller inside than a small t4. the r in a/r is ratio, the numbers don't cross over between different type housings. the t3 .63 a/r is smaller inside than the t4 .58 a/r turbine housing, by a lot really.

thanks for the heads up.

Covering your butt will cost you far less time and $$ than if you don't. I've known many friends that had gotten the shaft in court cuase they were ill prepared. Do your best to get a signed agreement now while she is still in a happy place. Once things get closer to final, she may change her mind. Gettign that stuff established now will set a precident for later Documet your own actions, not just hers. Taking kids out for activities, to friends houses, visiting realitives, taking them to the Dr, school conferances, etc. Shows you are doing the moms job. Mom doesn't need to be female, but kids need a mom. If you are mom, document it. keep a journal if it helps keep the events organized, just don't not do it. Even if it ends up100% smooth and you get what you want out of it, still be prepared. Also be prepared to let thigns go in favor of a peaceful split. I've seen people fight over stuff that can easily be replaced, or spend thousands in court costs over hundereds of dollars. Know the cost and value of your freedom from her.

what did the turbine wheel look like? That looks like it burnt/melted. Very hot with a lot of oxygen and fuel present. Cast iron will melt at a much lower temp (2100* F) than the inconel wheel, but inconel can stil be damaged by excess heat too.

You don't really need them, they only work to hold the injector in the rail when you remove the rail from the manifold. Unless you ferquently remove the fuel rail, they are not needed. They do not help with the seal unless the rail mounts are bent, and if you are leaking, the rail tabs probalby need to be bent back into alignment rather than using the clips to hold them in.

take the large nut off the 88 hub sindle, remove the comapnion flange and knock the spindle out. Do the same for your damaged 86 hub. put your 86 spindle/flange in the empty 88 hub and reassemble. Sell the 88 parts to recoup some of your cost.

The spindle on the 2 is different as well. the only part that never changed was the hub housing, everything else needs to match up by year. Yes, you can swap parts to use that 88 hub. I have an 86 wide body with one 84 narrow body hub, one 87 narrow body hub , with an 88 6 bolt setup in it. I know what fits and what doestn' fit. Only part you can recycle from the 4 bolt setup is the hub housing. If you want to get real technical, you can swap the splines inside the diff too, that part is interchangable too, but you gotta pull a lot of stuff apart to get to it.

yes. the BOV leaks cause there is enough pressure differential between the intake and IC pipes. The BOV thinks it needs to vent a little. Addign spring tension changes this trip point so it will stay shut till there is actauly the right pressure differential. the other desing that HKS uses is leak proof.