Chad

they won't soften, thats the whole reason to go poly. you might have some luck with one stock and one poly.

the trans is 75-77 pounds minus oil.

You do have to change the ISC, I updated my instructions in the first posing. After discussing this with Steve F, we figures it out. I never noticed the problem on mine since it idles just fine without the ISC ???

you just need 2 wires of 14-16 gage and run them from the ECU "B" connector to the MAS, you'l have to poke through the fire wall for that, but there are several places to go though. If you look on the 86 wiring chart, you can find the nessesary +12 v and ground to use for this DSM MAS.

86 TSI:  “A” connector 1: IGN – 2: AFS 3: n/c 4: GND (AFS) 5: Intake temp 6: Coolant temp 7: Idle SW 8: Motor Position SW 9: Pressure to gage 10: +5 volt power 11: O2 sensor 12: Ignitor signal 13: n/c 14: n/c 15: TPS 16: n/c 17: Intake temp (OVCP) 18: n/c 19: speed (coil) 20: n/c 21: Diag. Output 22: control relay (fuel pump) 23: secondary air (for catalyst) 24: pressure solenoid 86 TSI “B” connector: 1: +12V 2: GND 3: GND 4: EGR 5: IGN (cranking) 6: AC relay 7: +12V 8: Inhibitor 9: ISC + (out) 10: Injector # 1 11: ISC – (in) 12: Injector # 2 13: +12V backup 88 TSI “A” connector: -       1: IGN – -       2: AFS from A 8    3: Motor position SW -       4: GND -       5: Intake temp -       6: Coolant temp -       7: Idle SW n/c       8: n/c    n/c       9: n/c -       10: +5 volt power -       11: O2 sensor from B 11    12: ISC – (in) n/c       13: Ignitor advance n/c       14: Sensor +5 backup -       15: TPS new to AFS >    16: Barometric sensor n/c       17: n/c n/c       18: n/c -       19: Speed (coil) n/c       20: secondary air (catalyst) -       21: Diag. Output -       22: control relay (fuel pump) from B 9    23: ISC + (out) n/c       24: AC relay 88 TSI “B” connector: -       1: +12 V -       2: GND -       3: GND -       4: EGR -       5: IGN (cranking) -       6: AC switch -       7: +12 V -       8: inhibitor n/c       9: Boost gage -       10: Injector 1 (primary) from A 12    11: Ignitor signal -       12: injector 2 (secondary) -       13: +12 V backup since a different MAS is needed to convert, you may as well step up to a 1-G DSM MAS, they are cheaper and work quite a lot better. 86 AFS:       DSM  AFS: green/red       green/orange red          green/red black          green/black white/black       green/blue new > A 16       green/yellow new > +12 Switched    red n/c          green/white    Notes: >”n/c”  means “no connection” >”-“  means “stays the same” >”From A 8”  means “remove from stock 86 connector and relocate to the 88 pin number” >On two pins, you will have to cut the wires and solder on the pin from the “A” or “B” connector, these connectors use different pins, you will have the pins you need when you start to move them.  Some move from “A” to “B”, and some from “B” to “A”.  Some leads may be left over, these are pins not used (if you eliminate the secondary air and the stock boost gage) This conversion also requires an 87/89 ISC assembly. The new ISC requires a +5 V supply and a ground for the new functions, because the MPS converted from a simple switch to a potentiometer, you need 2 additional wires. However, the mitsu engineers decided to add 3 wires instead, and the 3rd is un-used at the ISC end, it is the blue/yellow and literlay has no physical connection at the ISC end, either in the ISC nor in the connector itself so don't bother with it. looking at the diagrams, it shared the common ECU ground in 87/89's, so ground it anywhere. same for the +5 V, it connects to a common supply, so just find 5V at the ECU or at some other component like the TPS which is just inches away. So here's what you need to do: looking at the 87 ISC, you have a connector that has black/red, black/green and black/blue, this is the motor and idle SW. It connects as follows to the 86 harness: 87 ISC motor : 87 ISC black/red to 87 harness yellow/black (splice here) to 86 harness green/white 87 ISC black/green to 87 harness yellow/lbue (splice here) to 86 harness black/yellow 87 ISC black/blue to 87 harness yellow/red (splice here) to 86 harness yellow/red now you have the 4 pin connector with green/red, blue/red, black, and blue/yellow, this is the new MPS circuit and connects as follows: 87 MPS: 87 ISC red to 87 harness green/red (splice here) to new +5 volts 87 ISC green to 87 harness blue/red (splice here) to 86 harness green/black 87 ISC black to 87 harness black (splice here) to new ground 87 ISC red jumper to 87 harness blue/yellow to N/C leave the pins at the ECU where they are, they are correct, you simply need to add the 87 ISC, splice the 87 harness to the 86 harness where is says "splice here", and wire in the +5 and the ground

you apply a thin coat of gasket glue on a new block-off gasket and stick it to the head over the hole so it stays in place. then you just slide on the intake gasket and slide on the intake. the intake flange sits high enough to completely cover that hole (by design).

it's not a great view, but you can seel it some what. It's a functional ram air setup that feeds the stock air box http://www.geocities.com/my86tsi/quest-5.jpg

Intercooled 2.6L StarQuest Conversion  AC Delco CS-130 Alternator 1.  110 Amps; ALL PARTS NEW, new brushes, HD bearings, HD hi-temp rectifier (best one on the market), upgrade 1 wire regulator, or standard regulator, upgrade “Iceberg” rear case.  Stator, rotor, fan, pulley, & large bearing front case ARE NEW.  2.  Custom bottom bracket for the most available parts version of GM alternator model.  Pulley is spaced for proper belt alignment.  The case however is a particular one to fit into the stock upper bracket w/no modifications.  There is no “off the shelf” version of this alternator at any parts store. 3.  All mounting hardware & wiring connector pigtail.  4.  Instructions PRICE:     $225 Shipped in the lower 48.   (No Core charge) Options : 1.  Chrome Case:  We don't recommend the chrome case due to heat restrictions. 2. Your Color Powder Coated Stator Stripe, Fan, & Pulley as in the pictures available by E-mail. $40.00 3.  Your Color Painted Stator Stripe, Fan, & Pulley          $10.00 These colors may or may not be a perfect match.  Send us a pic of your color, & we’ll do our best to match it, or call to further communicate a specific match.  No returns for paint dissatisfaction. Method of Payment: VISA, MasterCard, Money Orders, & Cashier’s Checks NO PERSONAL CHECKS!  NO COD’S!  One-Year Warranty.  Shipping on repairs is charged if we decide to do you a favor & fix an unwarranted repair for free, such as broken cases due to accidental mishaps, etc…  If we receive your alternator back for an agreed upon warranty repair, & the problem is not what you said it was, & or not covered under warranty, then we reserve the right to either fix it or not fix it as we deem fits the situation.  We do not warrant an obvious continuous amp overdraw/fried due to being taxed beyond its capabilities alternator, or if it has not been hooked up properly, etc… etc… FYI:     We can do the one wire thing to any CS Series alternator, & some others.  We also do many other upgraded starters & alternators to fit most any vehicle.  Please call us to find out if we can meet your need.  (970) 240-9273  > ask for Loren or Pat and tell them Tim_C. sent you : ) P.S. - May require a 1 - 2" longer belt. Mine and some others did not, but at least 2 people said they needed a longer one. Whether that is due to a shorter than OEM belt being used, don't know?

www.geocities.com/my86tsi/intakeprojects.html there's a lot of info at the bottom of the site about cost and options etc.

http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/compmaps/fig1.html the .60 wheel on a TO4E flows about 1030 CFM at 15 PSI, not too sure what it flows like mated to a 20-G turbine, but the wheel is definatly larger than any 20-G compressor wheel. I have a TO4B .60 HI-FI it's dimansions are almost identical to the TO4E .60 series. Mine flows about 1064 CFM at 15 PSI,and a total limit of 1152 at 20 PSI. I feel it's quite streetable, a slight lag till you pass about 3200 RPM, then it's all thrust to redline, even between shifts (I'm good at speed shifting).

A larger plenum would add lag and not improve flow > the plenum is 4" as is, that's larger than any OEM plenum on stock MPI cars. Did you know the injector placement on these aussie intakes and other OEM intakes were designed for emmisions, not performance? putting the injector that close improves low RPM combustion, but hurts high RPM fuel atomization. And yes, I can angle the injector, and will on future intakes, 40-45 degrees. flow data? does any one have flow data on a stock intake? EIP's intake? TEP's intake? CNM's intake? Glens intake? NO. Why do people keep asking why I have no flow data when no one else does either ??? They look at EIP's intake and see that it's a vast improvement, then look at mine and say" how do you know it works?" I still don't understand... Glens price $350 (?) my price $900 with new TB and fully stock compatable with velocity stacks and stock T-stat TEP's price ~$1000 and it's just a modified stock intake EIP's price ~$1100 > no compatability with the distributor / AC and no t-stat CNM's I recall being about ~$1200, and we all know about CNM... Sorry Rob, this is not pointed at you, rather I had an "episode" on Trances board where I got flamed for not having all these expensive tests done to my intake, I'm still a little touchy : )

And to think I have 5 intakes ready for immediate shipment : ) Sorry, I just had to rub that in... www.geocities.com/my86tsi/intakeprojects.html

Bring the motor to TDC, the cam pin should be at the very top or very bottom, rotate the crank till you get it to the top (12:00 o'clock position). If you are not getting the cam to 12:00 o'clock and the crank to TDC, your cam is off and you'll need to drop the cam gear and advance/retard the cam to get them ligned up. Be sure when you check the cam alignement that the chain is -tight- turning clockwise, there can be as much as 1 full tooth in slack so if you are not tight, you can get the cam off one tooth real easy. Never rotate the motor counter-clockwise. Now once you have the cam and crank ligned up, where is the distributor pointing? It should be at ~ 10:30. With the cap still on the distirbutor, mark on the distributor body exactly the center of the #1 plug lead, use a flat balde screwdriver/hammer and tap a mark that you'll be able to see with the cap off indicating the #1 position (some distributors have this mark from the factory). Now with the cam/crank still ligned up at TDC/12:00, rotate the distributor to the center of it's travel and make sure the rotor is pointing to the -center- of your mark. If it's off to one side or the other, your distributor is off one tooth, pull it out and re-incert till you get it right.

Cool, i'll draft a few more that I have in mind, but we'll incert them into the template when it become available.

How close are you guys to needing some FAQ's drafted?  Do you have a list of FAQ's that you'ld like to see?  maybe you can make a poll of some sort and ask for requests.  I have made a few in the past, like : www.geocities.com/chad86tsi/Injector-clip.html  I have a set of almost every year manual so I can get some specific procedures listed according to manual spec, as well as known shorcuts.