tux

Wish I could help, but I have no clue

I've got something like these : http://www.sears.com...:0#crumbWrapper And the ones I have work great... Sears is probably about the same quality as what I got **same as above

one of these has proven to be invaluable http://bit.ly/11zJNpp

I'll be picking up an oscilloscope . the distributor may be bad

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/mackaymanx/Magna%20Distributor/P1040246.jpg

with while running this test one sensor outputs up to 5v the other outputs 12v perhaps the cas is bad

So... When test just the harness i get: 12v to pin 1 (power) 5v to pin 2 5v to pin 3 earth - pin 4 with CAS connected I get 12v to pin 1 12v to pin 2 5v to pin 3 earth to pin 4 rotating the engine yields no variation in voltage.

^ that's hot

Isn't the 1g CAS a vr type ?

I tried with it off, but AEM support told me I should have both crank rising and falling on, but only one edge for cam.

It's possible that my friend was stepping on the pedal at the time of my screenshot None fire, there is provision for Coils 1, 1b, 2, 2b, etc. I have Coils 1 - 4 on, the others are set to off. Coils #1B – #4B are paired outputs for Coils #1 - #4. In other words, they are the same output but each firing event can be phased and trimmed independently of the other. The knock control is ticked off for the coils and unfortunately cannot be disabled for the injectors, but I don't have the knock sensor configured yet. I haven't set the base timing yet. That's actually the "step" I'm on. I'm not trying to start her, but get the base timing synced and initial pickup to work. I think i phrased it wrong. My coils and injectors aren't plugged in... but I should see (if I'm right, that the coil1 will flash when it's supposed to fire and cam/crank should have some sort of count. Page 142 - http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2030-6905.pdf

unfortunately, i'm not going to have my car running by then . even if it was, no way i'd trust it to go that far.

I can't seem to get Cyl 1 to fire. I've got a 4-1 CAS/CAM Wheel (Magna Distributor) http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6931/crankcas.png http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/8259/coilinject.png

I've been working on a start up map for my aem ems-4 . wondering if anyone with more experience tuning would mind to give it a once over .

Yea... thinking about it now, it wouldn't be feasible to do what I want.

Is there a pressure test I can run on a dry system prior to filling with oil ? I'm only asking because google brings me nothing but tests I can run against a car filled w/ oil and engine running. Thanks

Honestly, i think the inserts w/ the separation in the lines of the hood looks better than having it molded together. Also, I've had enough CF hoods on my WRX to really not like carbon fiber (at least bare carbon).

they need to have reproduction inserts in them

if you have the door push pin hardware i would LOVE to buy some . My door panels are missing a few !

I use sealant . manual says to .

what color is interior ?

Shelby is right I probably didn't bench bleed the master . I couldn't remember if I did or not before installing it. I'm going with not.

nevermind, it just took a good hour of the vacuum sucking on it.

Maybe someone can help. I've never had a problem bleeding brakes before, but replacing fluid when there is none is new to me. I've gone to the furthest location (pass rear) and started to try and pull the fluid through using a one man bleeder with a hand pump, but no fluid is coming though. I've also tried removing the hand pump and have a helper step on the brakes while i crack open the bleeder screw, but after forever, still nothing comes out. For fun, I hooked my shop vac up instead of the hand pump and let it pull for a while, but still no fluids. Is there anything I'm missing ?

Progress isn't as far as I'd like, but... http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p77/opticledilusi0n/IMG_20130413_003654.jpg