riceboyler

Thanks for coming to pick it up yesterday and dealing with the chaos of the morning! I found the bag of head studs and downpipe (spring loaded) bolts in my garage. I packed them, so I can ship them to you. PM me with your address, and once we get all unpacked (once we get to Tallahassee), I'll ship them up to you. I figure the head studs are pretty darn valuable. I hope your wife loves the car as much as I did. I already miss it!

Turbo price dropped considerably. All other items shipped.

Oil lines sold to CarlosFley. Now I just need somebody to make an offer on this turbo!

SOLD!

Replied to your PM. I can ship anywhere in the US.

Hood Struts and Manual Boost Controller SOLD to Olive8

A few separate things on this one: A Mookeh MK1 Oil drain return and feed line, still new in the unopened bag. You can see exactly what I'm talking about here: http://www.ebay.com/...t-/140547018159 I've included a picture to show that the bag is still unopened. It's going for $45 + shipping on eBay, I'll take $40 shipped anywhere in the US. Second, I have a Lower Shores Performance Boost Controller, also still new in the unopened bag (though this one is a ziplock bag from Brian, so it's not quite as impressive, I guess). From what I understand, it's a great Manual Boost controller, and it has all the necessary hardware for mounting. I've never removed it from the bag, so I can't say how it works from personal experience, but I think everybody on here knows Brian's reputation. You can see a link to them here: http://www.starquest...es +performance They were $40 shipped from Brian, so I'll say $35 shipped anywhere in the US. Third, I have a Motocam 360 Hood Strut Kit that I have never pulled out of the package. You can see more information here -> http://www.themotoca...&category_id=28 It's still new in the bags that they were shipped in, never mounted and complete kit. It's listed for $91 on the site right now, so let's say $75 shipped anywhere in the US. Finally (at least for now), I have a 12A stock turbo with a 16G compressor wheel with a divorced wastegate hotside. The coldside WILL need to be cleaned up, the compressor wheel that is currently mounted is chewed up pretty well, and the turbo assembly will need a rebuild. I bought this from a fellow SQCer a year ago or so, and never did anything with it, other than buy the replacement 16G wheel. I'd highly recommend you look at TurboLab out of Virginia for a rebuild, as they have great rates. Note that this IS a divorced wastegate, so you'll need a custom downpipe, but you'll see much better performance out of this setup. I have more pictures in this album (it includes other stuff for sale) -> http://1drv.ms/1nZcxg6 It's stupid heavy, so I'm going to say $100 shipped anywhere in the US. *Price Drop 7/3* Honestly, I just want to get this out of my way while I'm moving, so I think this would be fair. If not, make me an offer. I'm located in White House, TN (37188)

SOLD!!

Pictures can be seen at: http://1drv.ms/1nZcxg6 I'm dropping the price to $1000/OBO for SQC members ONLY. I want this car to go to somebody who can appreciate what it is. I know it looks rough in the pictures, as I didn't have time to clean it up before I shot some pictures. I need it gone by July 12th, as I'm moving to Florida that day, and will have to abandon it otherwise. For the $1000, I'm NOT including the MAF-T or the MAF sensor or hood struts, as I'll sell those separately. Let's see if I can get some pics to actually show up here...

Well, I hate to do this, but due to the fact that I'm looking at moving for work this summer, I'm going to have to sell my Starion. I've owned this car for a little over 2 years after purchasing it from minagera. It's a true 89 Starion (title says so, everything matches VIN wise) but it's not running at the moment. <tl;dr> 1989 Starion, Black and Black, 5-speed Not running due to engine out of the car Tranny is fine, suspension is sagging in the rear Interior is baked, but all there NOT SHP About a year and a half ago, while driving it home from work, the radiator sprung a serious leak, it ran hot, and cooked the head gasket. In the process of tearing it down, I decided to go ahead and pull the whole engine and was glad I did after I saw the condition of the bearings. No huge damage, but there was definite wear on 2 of the 5 mains, and 2 of the 4 pistons as well. Pistons and rods appear to be in great shape, crank will need to be polished, but otherwise appears fine. The block is mostly disassembled, the flywheel appears to be fine, and the clutch is okay, but could probably use a replacement. There's still friction material there, but it could be better. Pistons are all out, but the crank pulley is still on. If things with this move go slower, I'm hoping to get this block to the machine shop to be magnafluxed and decked, and have the crank polished. I'm not sure what size bearings it had, so it will have to get indexed as well. The head is an M28 NJV head casting, that other than a 3 angle valve job appears to be stock otherwise. The stock 12A turbo spooled fine and I haven't touched it. I purchased upgraded injectors from from Lower Shores (850/1050) which are already installed in the Intake Manifold. The head is completely reassembled sitting on my bench, and I have the remnants of a full Fel-pro head set including the head gasket ready to go. The exterior of the car needs some attention paint wise, but the body is straight. The airdam (1-piece) does have the typical cracks, but they're not bad, and are held together for the most part with zip ties. The hood is awful, as I attempted to cover some missing paint and only made it worse. I'll admit, I don't belong anywhere near paint or bondo. That said, I haven't applied any bondo to the rest of the car. The fog/driving lights do have a yellow tint film from Burton, and the sidemarkers have been tinted black with the same film. The headlights have been replaced with the suggested H4 housings that DO have the proper cutoffs, so an HID upgrade would be quite easy. Right now, it has the typical Superwhite H4 bulbs, which made a HUGE difference in visibility. The rear lights are a custom job I did myself that have two rows each of LEDs, both orange and red. The housings were blacked out, and I removed the mirrors as they were badly rusted. Additionally, the red reflectors have mostly been removed, but the one built in below the reverse light is still there, meaning they are legal in all 50 states. The wiring is not complete, but the replacement flashers are in the car. It was one of those projects I was working towards finishing when the car went down. Wheels are all stock 7s/8s (it's not an SHP), though one of the rears does have the center painted black, as opposed to the grey paint on the rest. They're in good shape, minor curb rash here and there, but nothing major and certainly not bent. The interior is complete but has certainly seen better times. It sat for years in the Texas sun baking it, so everything is a little brittle. I've replaced the gauge surround (due to the previous one being totally cracked), I also replaced the sunroof controls, removed the trim (as it was horribly faded), etc. It does have an Autometer boost gauge in the stock boost gauge location. The seats are there, but not in outstanding shape. The drivers side is very worn on the bolster, and the leather on both is quite hard. It does have the 89 auto-down window control, though the window motors are slow. They work, but they're slow, and could probably use with some attention. The door panels do have holes cut for tweeters at the top, but otherwise are in good shape. There is a leak somewhere that causes the floorboards to get wet with rain, and I'm not sure where it is, but in the interest of full disclosure, there could be some rust in the floorboards at this point. Carpet is all there, speakers have been upgraded, though the rear speaker covers aren't there. E-brake cable needs to be replaced, and it comes with the car (thanks to Minagera for providing it ). The exhaust has NO catalytic converters, it's a straight 2.5" pipe back from the downpipe (also cat-less) to the stock muffler. There are two rust spots I'm aware of on the rear right fender flare (right above where the mud flaps would be). The rest of the car, last I looked, is rust-free. Again, due to the leak, that may have changed. The tires are almost new Yokohamas all around in 225/45 (IIRC, I'm at work right now, not by the car. I'll update when I post pictures). The brakes are fine, though I do have a couple of replacement calipers that will go with the car. Suspension is a little saggy in the rear end, and it's apparent from looking at the underside of the car that it has had an off-road excursion at some point. The bushings could all use some attention, but the car still drove like a dream before the overheating. Speaking of the overheating, I have a replacement aluminum radiator (CX Racing) with two fans that I've already mocked up, but have not installed in the car. Other parts that will be going with the car include: 16G cold-side mated to a 12A hot-side with divorced wastegate in need of a rebuild. I actually have the replacement 16G wheel, but the cold side will probably need to be machined as well. AEM UEGO Wideband O2, sensor is already installed in the downpipe (straight, not catted), but I haven't done the wiring for the gauge in the car. Hood struts from Motocam360, not installed. GenII MAF-T electronic unit. I have the unit and the instructions and began the process of mapping out the wiring, but have not wired it into the car yet. I did hook it up to a 12V battery to confirm it powered on as expected. Also have a 4" GM MAF and associated hoses from a 1G DSM, so it should be relatively easy to rig it up to get rid of the MAS. Polished SS 3" OVCP with a Forge BOV I know that a for sale thread is worthless without pictures. I will take some pictures either tonight or tomorrow and post on this thread, but I wanted to at least get it out there while I had time this morning. It will hurt to see this car go, but being that it's an '89 Starion, I want it to go to an enthusiast. The car is located in White House, TN (about 25 miles North of Nashville), and it WILL have to be trailered. As I said, I'll get pics up when I get the chance. Thanks for looking, and feel free to ask questions.

Is that a standard 16G wheel or a big 16G?

Got a set of injectors, boost controller and throttle shaft seals from Brian. If every online transaction went this well, brick and mortar stores wouldn't have a prayer of surviving. Brian is exemplary of how a vendor should act and work. Ridiculously fast shipping, and it's obvious that he cares. We'll all miss you, and I greatly appreciate the PMs we've shared over the past week. I know you're on the right path.

@MotoCam360, still waiting on shipping quotes from you for gauge hood and sunroof bits. Thx!

PM Sent - Gauge Hood & Sunroof Parts (if there is a sunroof, which it doesn't appear there is, but I can hope, right?)

Well, the good news is that (unbeknownst to me) I have a non-JV head, so hopefully, that will help. I'm still in the midst of pulling everything apart. Radiator is out (and man is it shot), water pump is out, valve cover, throttle body, etc. I also didn't realize it but somebody replaced the head bolts with studs, so I guess I can return those head bolts I got. I'm putting a couple of pictures in here to show progress thus far. MMMM. Milkshake...

Crap, you're right, that's exactly what I did. I didn't even think about that increasing the warpage. Something tells me I might have to find a head...

No, actually I didn't. I'll check that when I get home tonight.

Just to get clarification, I'm looking at this radiator: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Aluminum-Radiator-240SX-S13-SR20DET-12-Fan-/180682067258?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a117d8d3a&vxp=mtr It has the inlet/outlet in the correct place, as best I can tell. Thanks again!

It's at 136K, so that's a good suggestion spadey. Honestly, I'm kind of looking forward to tearing into it to see what I find. Not sure if it's still got Jet Valves or not, etc. Good call as well on the Compression check. I can do that tonight.

Congrats, John! When we came down to PG in July, we went to Wonderworks and it's a great place, but boy do they ever need a good technician!

For the past couple of weeks, my 89 has been going through coolant like crazy. It has an aftermarket aluminum radiator (supposedly for a Chevy 350) that from what the PO told me had the end tanks epoxied on. Well, it's leaking badly. Yesterday, on the way home, I got stuck in traffic, and with very little water/coolant left in the radiator, it overheated badly. I got it home and immediately shut it off, opened the cap (with gloves and thick towel) and poured water in the radiator, which immediately began to boil. I topped off the radiator after a few minutes and left the car. This morning, I came out to start it and it would not start forever. I cranked and cranked and it FINALLY caught and ran like garbage for the first 2-3 minutes. Then, idle smoothed out, and it ran fine: oil pressure came up to where it should have been, etc. I didn't drive the car to work for fear of further damage until I get a replacement radiator (getting one of the 240SX (S13) CX Racing ones) but I think it may have blown the HG. The oil cap did have "milkshake" on it, so that's typically a pretty good sign in my experience. With my limited knowledge of these cars specifically, I'm wondering what the possibility is that I warped the head? I'm assuming these engines have steel blocks and aluminum heads, meaning the warp possibilities would be greater, but again, I'm not sure. The plan is to pull the head over the next few nights and at the least replace the radiator and HG. Any random advice for this procedure would be welcomed. I've done HGs on other cars before, but you guys know there are always little intricacies to each car that you only learn by doing. And yes, I do have the Service Manual downloaded and will be using it extensively. Thanks!

Nick, let me tell you, these look amazing. i'm really impressed with the quality and how good these look. If you do another run, I'll definitely be in.

Well, left early, and it's a good thing I did. Luckily, I only had to use the clutch 3 times, and each time there was plenty of time in between for the little bit of pressure to build back up. I hadn't tried to rev match in the Starion before, but it's amazingly easy, especially the 4-5 upshift. Amazingly, Advance Auto has ONE (and only one) slave cylinder in the Nashville area (neither O'Reilly or Auto Zone had one local) that will be here tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice guys!

I've done it before, multiple times, but never in the Starion. I had a Saab SPG previously that lost its slave cylinder (and they're MUCH more difficult to change, given that they're on the front of the motor) and I had to get it home from downtown Nashville. It wasn't easy, but I did it. I think I might be leaving work REALLY early today so I don't even have a chance of hitting traffic. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Well, it was about time that my car left me a little stranded. At least I was able to get it to work this morning. My clutch slave cylinder is leaking badly and I know I'll need to replace it, but I'm at work 40 miles from my house (where all of my tools are). It started acting up last night with the pedal going to floor and not coming back, but it drove fine this morning right until I got to downtown Nashville in traffic, and then it lost all pressure. I had to coast off of the interstate into a shopping center close to my work. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, so I walked across the parking lot and bought some brake fluid (nippy morning in Nashville!) and put it in the reservoir. That was enough to get me the last mile to my office, but I would really like to get it home so I can work on it there (for obvious reasons). So, anybody have any quick fix suggestions that might get me 40 miles home to White House? I still have over a 1/2 bottle of fluid and I'll be leaving here around 3:30 hopefully to avoid the traffic so once I get on the interstate, I'll have a straight shot home (minimal shifting, etc.). Thanks for any suggestions!