dizzydug

Not to sound grim but had you been seriously burned or died in the fire there would be no more TEP and Steve and the mechanic that did the work would be in jail. They kwon that and that scared the holy hell out of them.Thier reaction was to freak out and deny everything. Had that happened to me and I even burned a finger trying to put out the fire or get out of the car I would be the owner of TEP and it would be a good place to go for custom work.

Sony "xplode" subs work well in small boxes.The xplode 15's could be put in a starion facing up in the hatch if so desired.Would have no trunk space but i don't use it anyway.Take lots of power I think.I have yet to test thier limits.Have to get a new head for my car first. Have a huge fosgate amp so I am gonna try the xplode's till I get the money for hx2's if ever.

Go an get a stiffening capacitor(1 fared) and an Interstate "Megatron"battery and that will solve a lot of problems.If you still have trouble than your electrical system has a problem elsewhere.Bad grounds,corroded wiring ect. Back when I my 75 camaro I had 2 punch 150's and a power 300 and just had the stock chevy alternator.Around 60-65 amps like our cars I think.That interstate megatron has 120 minutes of reserve power and a lot of juice to boot.Never had a problem with anything electrical and that was in an old car.Those 3 amps drew 100 amps. Later I added a second battery as I then ran the power 300 and a power 650.Also had a dual battery isolator so the alternator would only charge the battery that needed it.Worked well in that car. The newest of our cars being 14 years old;almost 15 I think maybe the stock alternator will need to be replaced or rebuilt.Don't expect a 15 + year old electrical system to run your car plus 1000 watts of stereo equipment. If you can get a high amp alternator to bolt up and hook up to our car then all the better.I have seen a Pheonix gold alternator in a starion once.They make a universal bolt on of some kind.Brackets has to be made to work ofcourse.There is no cheap route.

I recently purchased a used fosgate punch 800.i haven't been into car audio since I got this car 9 years ago.focused on speed.used to do a lot of install around here.Made good money to pay for my own stereo fix. I like hdam's install that still left him some storage space.Gonna make a new custom cover for subs.Don't know exactly what yet.Can't wait to here that bad boy.

Oh yeah;if it's a structural part of the car then forget anything but welding in a new panel.A rusted out unibody car is not safe to drive.You are probally just refering to surface rust but just a reminder of how far rust gets before you realize it.

Forget about that electronic rust prevention crap;especially now since it's started.Threat the rust now and inspect all the car you can get to for more rust.I just fixed my lower quarter panel in front of rear wheel on pass. side.lot of fiberglassing but very solid.Couldn't get a repair panel or a donor from a junk yard car.Gotta finish up paint to make look all pretty still.

i really like the 4g63 setup in the yelloww car.I would personally run some sort of compitition trans(lenco)or an auto.seen drag racers blow up anything no matter how bullet proof.Just make a tranny fit and don't abuse it and it will be fine on the street.Spend the big bucks on the motor or something.The engine bay is dynamite and simple yet very effective.No a/c;too bad.Not quite a streetable car but could be.Best looking 4g63 install and set up I have ever seen.very clean. The time and speed is unbelievable.must be in the 600hp range or better and a stripped interior w/full cage.probally no more IRS.I'd leave the rear alone for a street car.I am not a drag racer though.nice.Will add that picture to my starquest gallery...

Thank you.

I want to remove the black plastci panel under the wipers to paint it.how do i remove this after I pull off the wipers?Don't want to break it of course.

nice.i'd go with a big tb and multiport injection though.without a plenum of any kind i don't see much top end.Maybe it's just not there yet. Just one question.How are ya gonna join the aluminum intake and the aluminized steel pipe?epoxy?JB weld. not knocking it just wondering.

I want to know how to get a hold of this guy Glen that mods the magnas for our cars.I can get my own TB but want the intake and fuel injector rail.I know to get holley injectors from summit or jeggs.They fit with no mods. how much? how long wait? I was thinking around $350-$550 shipped-I can handle that vs. the $1300+ from eip.nice intake though

i am gonna pull off the pass. side rocker panel piece and see what's back there. The area that's rusted was full of dirt that got in there thru a little hole rusted out at a seam in the wheel well.the bottom part of the quarter panel was paper thin and i stuck my finger thru it.i was quite disgusted about the whole thing. i only know of 1 in a junk yard locally but it's pretty messed up.That part of the rear may be ok if the car is still there.around here the response to "I have a mitsubishi starion I need a part for" is what the heck is that? wil look into this more over the weekend.

is there any availble sections(new) for our cars.the lower corner in front of the pass. side wheel is rotted.i am no metal worker so making a new piece would be a real pita and would rather cut out the cancer and weld in a whole new piece. i may just use the rust converter and fiberglass repair but wanted to know whats availble first. fiberglass is my medium of choice.i may sell the car so I want to do it rite but don't want to spend a fortune.

that is some serious porting.was thinking about doing that but with the stock tb/mixer.I would't mess with the stock mixer thing if i had gone that far.just weld on some injector ports.

That's pretty much what I am looking for.That plan may change before i get going but i go from "I don't wat big" to "big rules" car stereo wise.