barbercb

This may not go here but I have a question. Just ignore it if it's a stupid one. Lets say you take a caravan intake. Put 8 low impedance injectors in it. The volume of those injectors could be equal to or greater than the volume of 2 secondaries. Or took a stock intake and put the injectors in the individual runners Then lets say you split the signal 4 ways from the primary and secondary leads. And run them to the 8 injectors. And plug the injecor holes as well as the fuel coming in from the top of the stock fuel mixer. And instead use a fuel rail for the the injectors. I guess you could put NOS nozzels in the old injector holes if you wanted. (joke) Now I know alot of you guys would say that doesn't solve the problem of flowing more air. But lets say you were going for "MPI junior" and were really more worried about evening out the fuel to the cylenders so you were not leaning one or more out under high boost. Would this work? Would that be some sort of improvement over stock? Would it be a big waste of money?

OK fine. Put me down for a set of 8.5's I want them RED. And tell this post to quit looking at me. It has devil eyes.

My bottom end is stock as well. I ran the 9.044 at the tsc meet.

I think that prelude offwhite pearl with dark windows would look sweet

Might I add something here, along the lines of dual over head cams, direct bolt on no mod MPI systems etc. This is something everyone would really like to see/have every few months someone comes along and says I'll make carbon fiber this or that or fiberglass this or that. I for a while would get my hopes up and nothing ever materialized. If this is the real deal, get some definate prices and definate numbers and types of hoods fenders etc. Make them commit to prices for certain numbers and post that. Other wise you are going to get everyone who hasn't learned their leason saying they'd buy it with no idea of the cost, and everyone who has learned their leason just ignoring this post. If you have a commitment from them and some real pricing it makes it more real. Thanks.

Just wanted to add this. http://img30.photobucket.com/albums/v89/barbercb/0407048th.jpg

Which Greddy do you have? Mine has a red, black, Green and blue then a little connector with a purple and gray wire. The timer has GTT236286 on it. Will your instructions work?

To Kelly, Yes sir .... "You buy now!" I go to the dyno after weeks sometimes months of tuning. I've wanted to dyno since I got my new turbo, and Kellys 3" exhaust, but I knew it wasn't time yet. After I spent the time tuning the MAFT the car ran good enough to dyno. I have to agree though an hour of dyno time and some logging tools would be so sweet. Unfortunatly there is no such thing for us, I'm so jealous of the palm software the DSM guys have...I hate just looking at my morse code blinking light when they have a palm pilot that can do and read just about all the vitals of the car. The other issue is there is no one left that you can take it to to tune it. Everyone I have talked to has said, "well I'll give it a shot but it's going to be best guess" For me I'll spend the time on the road and if it's going to get blown up by a "best guess" It's going to be my best guess. That being said I'd sure be open to suggestion on where to look for the hidden horse power. Question number one for me is where should the air/fuel ratio be for top safe performance? Right now I'm trying to keep it 11.8 to 12.2 area. It can seem stronger leaner but, I don't know where the limits are.

My general setup is this. INTAKE Kelly's hard AHP and a 3" to 2"ID coupler TEP's hard OVCP with HKS BOV Stock Intake and intake manifold FUEL Master 2315 fuel pump stock lines up to stock fuel filter Spark ACCELL street coil (yellow tube shape) NGK spark pulg wires NGK 8 range plugs (had to work with the gap I'd suggest doing the same) Exhaust Stock manifold stock housting *DM 3" back ENGINE BOTTOM END Stock stock stock SPEC stage 3 clutch Tranny and rearend stock With all of this I have a PLX wideband to hopefully help me keep from blowing it all up.

17lbs of boost on 93octane pump. I think it would have been better but here is the story. You notice the last pull was better.... Well the car sat for about 20 min before we got started and about 10 more before they got it tied down once I pulled it in. Anyway, the guy starts it goes through 1st 2nd,3d, then just jumps right into the first pull. Slows it down and starts the second. The frist two pulls I can guarentee the O2 sensor wasnt warm and neither was the engine. After the second pull (keep in mind reving up to 6 grand he brakes, then shuts it right off. So at this point I'm a little pissed 1st because I was thinking i'd be at 250 and secondly b/c this buy obviously knows nothing and this shop is one of the better in the area and I had a great experice last time. So I pull the guy aside and say, please let it idle a little after the run and, on this last run let it run at 2000 rpm in 4th for atleast 2 minutes before we go so the sensor are warm and that's how I got the last good pull. Monsta'a banchee coming soon, and I'm hopeing hardpipe kit.

I just got back from the dyno and am pleased but 8hp off what I was shooting for. Mods are listed in the sig. http://jupiter.walagata.com/w/barbercb/dyno.jpg http://jupiter.walagata.com/w/barbercb/dyno3.jpg

wrong. You run it behind the stockone. Think about it. The goal is to raise pressure. so the stock one (just for the sake of argument) starts releasing pressure at 30psi. You have the one behind it to start at 40 psi. So the first one opens up and starts letting fuel out, the second one behind it stops the fuel raises the pressure to 40 then lets it out. The first one in that situation just remains open.

Good question. Some pics of how you set it up or writen description would be great.

You know another good note to add would be the break point for fuel mods. 17C is about as big as you can go to 15 lbs with no additional fuel mods on a 100% working order stock fuel system. 14G is a very very nice upgrade to the stock turbo for someone wanting more power without the worry of other mods. My car did 194hp with 256lbs of torque with a 14G and a 1G MAS the rest stock.

This may be old news to people but I just want to confirm it's not possible for us. Evidently there is no way to get digital data out of our ECU. It will only output analog. There for a system like the dsm pocket logger would very expensive b/c of the converters needed. Is this true that we are stuck with the 7 code blinking light? Do any of the oldtimers remember what the computer diagnostics reader would read? Does anyone know of a place to pick up signals that this company could utilize to make us a product. Or is there a product like this for us on the market at this time? www.pocketlogger.com http://mmcd.meditprofi.ru/

I got the PLX very simple to install and seems to be working great. It sure calmed my idle down, but now my car idles 200rpm higher.... Anyway, the 300 model has 2 power wires, and a gray and white. The gray is analog (narrow band) and the white is wideband output. I don't think you will need to buy anything to run your hal meter. I ran the wire that went to my o2 sensor back into the car connected the Gray wire to it and did nothing to the wiring of my halmeter. So now the CPU gets its O2 reading from the 300 and the halmeter gets it's info from where it always had. Any questions about it I'll be happy to answer.

I'll go out on a limb here at the risk of being laughed at by cap'n omnipotent and ask do you guys see a performance/accuracy difference between the 3 products linked in this conversation? If so what order would you rank the products as far as accuracy? Not that I really care b/c all I am worried about is keeping one bung......<<< this does ooze of sarcasm.

OK so you are talking about the analog output that will also need to feed our CPU. That is what I find most usefull you dont need to weld in another bung and have 2 sensors. That is really great. Like I said keep me posted.

I'm down. Keep me posted via PM. Any more deatails on what the AF driver does? Does that mean it will feed info to say a halmeter? I'd want the one with the display for sure.

No thanks, I'll just keep it as is.

I have 2 fronts off the car right now. I've looked all around for someone to try and do a rebuild on them, no luck. I'd be interested in letting you have your way with them if you will let me buy them back if you fix em, or even tear them up. I've already switched out the fronts, I need to know what to do with the backs. I'll PM you with my number so we can talk if you want or just write back.

I made one using PVC and couplers from Homedepot. It uses one of the gutterdowns for the "scoop" which fits nicely into the air dam then uses 45 and 90 degree elbows to weave up then I used a 2"to2" to cuple it to the stock air can or blow air onto a opend up 1G. Then all you have to do is disconnect the cupler if you are in rain and it's just like stock. I'll see if I can get pics if anyone is interested. there is a noticable temp difference under the hood with it blowing open. and I'm sure it fills the can when closed with cold air.

can I just replace the SHP 8way cartridges with standard tokico cartridges? TEP has all the welding and stuff, but can I just take the 8ways out and put new ones in with out having to cut?

My car has the SHP, so I have 8s&9s. Can I get another set of 9s and run them on the front? Reason I ask is it'd sure be nice to be able to do a normal tire rotation.

Please do give more info. Where to get it, what partnumbers, please be specific.