TheAxeGod

PM/paypal sent for seatbelts. Thanks. -Axe

I need front shoulder seatbelts and battery holder shipped to 09494 (APO).

Can I get the automatic seatbelts? I really just need the driver, but would like both. Mine are frayed really bad. Thanks! -Whit

BUMP. Nobody has one of these bulb sockets laying around? I'm just going to drop it off tomorrow to get light conversion and inspection and pray I can get it working I guess if they write me up. -Axe

I forgot to clarify, shoulder belt. And yes, I just need teh light sockets, should be a pretty common part to get I would think! I did pull off the lenses to take out teh outer red lense, so I could have an amber bulb for blinkers, and that was a pain, but got it done. Then I remembered about the grounding issue for the lights

My taillight assemblies on my 88 (where the bulbs go lol) are really rusted, and i'm having some grounding issues. I attempted to fix them, but the right one is really bad off. I need the right (passenger) primarily, but wouldn't mind having both. I also need a rear defroster switch, top part of the fuel mixer, fuel supply hose, turn signal switch (in steering column), driver's side seat belt...I guess that's it. Make me some realistic offers and I'll scoop up some parts. I'm over in England now, and they 'actually' do inspections so I'm fixing everything that I can, especially the lights; thanks in advance guys. To clarify, I have an APO address, so it's like shipping to NJ, so shipping won't be a concern, besides a customs form. APO, AE 09494-0013 -Axe

Here's what I'd like to get before I get this car ready to ship to England, it's currently getting repainted -MAF with hard pipe to turbo -Piping for stock IC (or perhaps include the IC) -Main fuel hose going to throttle body from filter -Downpipe for stock turbo -Turn signal handle from steering wheel (I guess that's easy to replace) -Already cleared out taillights, or some with the far red part removed (I need the edges to be amber) I think this is all I need for now, the rest is cosmetic and I can put a post to buy a lot of that stuff later. The sooner the better, as I only have a few weeks left before I leave--I decided pretty late on to keep her! Just shoot me a reasonable price and I'll grab it if you have it to sell. Thanks so much guys; it's nice to be part of the club, even though I haven't been too active. I blame the wife and kids -Whit

My car is getting painted right now, when I get all my parts back, I would have a very rough looking nose piece (between headlights) that was red, with a black bumper cover and black or red plastic piece above that, all in one piece but not perfect of course. What's it worth to you? I can ship as early as monday from Florida. And I can get pics tomorrow after work.

Still available? PM me the paypal address and I'll take it.

Same. I'm going to England and I have to have amber rear blinkers, so some clear taillights would be perfect! Thanks if you have any left or advice. -Axe

I sent the pic to your email. If you didn't get it, then how much for just the light switch cluster and fusible link box. And do you accept paypal? Axe

I need the A/C pressure switch (that allows the condenser fan to operate), the light cluster switches and the fusible link box shipped to 32539. Let me know. Thanks. Axe

Want the cluster cover, had a few buttons break on me. Whats the price and shipping to 32539, FL I can pay paypal. -Axe

Well, I have the JVE kit installed in the last three cylinders, and so far, I drove to work (50 miles) and everything was kosher. BUT, to feel safer about that weld breaking, I do wnat to remove the first jet valve without disassembling the head...i tried everything and can't get anything on it, anyone have ideas? Only thing I thought might work is a 14mm 1/4" drive socket, my 3/8 do not fit, nor can you get a wrench on the head of the jet valve. The top of the valve is missing, its welded at the nut portion...seems to run fine, but I just don't feel safe since the other two broke. Thanks for all the help guys! -Axe

Hmm...I was having lots of trouble with ignition with my new engine. Just some simple checks to perform: (You'll need two people for this) and it won't hurt to download the 88 Factory Service Manual (FSM), there's a link somewhere in the FAQ 1) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and hold it about one inch from one of your shock bolts or other ground, you should have some sparkies going on while cranking. (Also, disconnect fuel injectors to prevent saturating the cylinders) 2) If no spark is present, ohm out the coil. First tag and remove the wires from the coil. From Pos to Neg, you should have 1.12-1.38ohm, mine was like 1.45ohm and still works so somewhere in the ballpark. 3) Then 9.4-12.7(K)ohm should be present from the Pos to the Coil Wire plug. 4) Check main engine ground below Intake (follow the big black/yellow wire from neg. terminal). If it looks shady, won't hurt to replace that for about 10$. A bad ground can cause lots of issues....especially if you forget to hook that up If there WAS spark when you grounded out the coil wire, definitely check the cap and rotor, another 10-15$ to replace. You can also remove a spark plug, connect it to a wire and get it close to a ground while cranking and it should produce spark. If it does, check/replace plug wires..also can't hurt to replace plugs..only 1.75$ a piece. And if all that passes and no start, probably out of time which can be addressed on this site or in that 88 FSM. Let us know what works and doesn't work. -Axe

Sadly, we were in a hurry and I didn't check dads site, even though I bought all engine parts from him lol....oh well, would have been better to get it from Dad too...but I was in a hurry, but I know now! Thanks. -Axe

Found these via Google...interestingly enough, these are the only JV elimination kits they offered....lol can't beat it for 26$ Hopefully the car is good to go after this! Might want to move this link to FAQ, I can't be the only one doing this without a D50 head. -Axe Goodson Jet Valve Elimination Kit for 2.6

Damn guys that did my head did a crappy a** job with my jet valves by welding them closed.... UPDATE I did get the engine running it was out of time by one tooth i guess, but i went to test drive it, got to 3k RPMs and two of my jet valves broke and broke off the piece of the rocker arm but they should still function fine, my question is, i'm goign to ace to just get some solid bolts to fill in the holes this should be fine I assume but wanted to ask what any of you guys have done before, Let me know if that'll work, but I don't see why not seeing how they rigged up my jet valves... -Axe

Continued from installing my rebuilt 88 motor.. First thing, I used my 86 intake manifold and exhaust manifold...didn't see any difference except for that extra vacuum port don't know if that could matter... Well, I have "walked" the chain back to a little before 12 o clock on the cam, even ensured it was on the power stroke, crank on 0....I mean triple checked timing. Distributor put in at the right marks, fuel is a definite, and she won't even fire one cylinder. I don't understand it. I have checked each plug wire with another spark plug to ground, and they fired that way. Here are the only questions that I have: Okay, if it's possible that there's too much gas and it's flooded...how would I go about doing a few checks that I perhaps overlooked. Not totally sure I reconnected the throttle right but its sitting slightly open and touching ISC, pedal seems normal. I double-checked the injector clips...i have trilogy turbo ones...the black one as primary. Air is a no brainer, it's getting that tried with OVC pipe on and off. even tried disconnecting MAF and using starting aid. Next question, weak spark? Perhaps I didn't hook up the wires right on the coil, although it's producing spark for sure. On the negative I have the stock neg with a Blue wire that goes to some little box on the coil. The pos side has the stock wire and a black wire coming from some other device on the side of the coil. I checked voltage of coil, I omhed it, wasn't too bad. FSM mentions some detonation sensor which I thought was the knock box, but I didn't see where that wire goes, just know it's in the circuit. I'm running out of ideas seriously. My thing is, it's not even trying now, at least it was firing randomly when I had the timing off, so perhaps I screwed that up again? I mean I could be one tooth behind now, but I mean it's right before 12 o clock, and moving the distributor doesn't do anything. Spark plugs DO seem like they aren't firing correctly, but like i said, checked timing a million times. Any help and all help thus far has been awesome. Thanks for the support, gotta get my quest back running!

OK, well I retimed the distributor, installed that ground, and now it will start, BUT this white smoke is coming out of the intake and crankcase. The smoke smells like..i dunno something burned, almost like burned oil. It will start but idles very strange and throttle is very confused! What's wierd though, is even with OVC pipe disconnected, even on cranking, the smoke comes out of the intake as well as the intercooler hose...like it's going thru the turbo, or perhaps through the crankcase breather? bet that's that one...but anyway, very odd problem, I remember one guy mentioning something about being 180 off, so i guess i'd be igniting the gas on the intake stroke? might make sense, let me know if you guys have had this issue or know what could be wrong. Thanks for all your help thus far, need to get her running soon! -Axe

WOW, I totally forgot to install the ground! That would explain the starter problem lol...wow, probably all of my problems, but I can't test it all out till tomorrow cause i need my wifes car for the battery...awesome, oh BTW, the only thing (besides that ground!) that I wasn't sure about is the throttle linkage, i messed with that for a while, I have the spring on, then the cable holder, a spacer, the return spring holder, then the nut, and the return spring assembly is at a 45 toward the intake, and the throttle seems to look open. which didn't seem right, so anyway, I'll go out there tomorrow, hook up the ground, recheck distributor (I know the wires are correct), and that dowel was slightly after 12, so if i had to back that up one tooth, how would i go about doing that? the stock manual is a little confusing...for example once i pull off the sprocket how do i get the cam to turn without bottoming the bolt out? Would that ground cause the car not to start? if so...WOW on my part. I'll have to do a thorough wire check as well now. -Axe

I just got my rebuilt engine in (88), and after putting everything back together and fixing a few coolant leaks, we tried starting her up. First thing to notice is that the starter seems to be skipping, which it didn't do before. It cranks for a bit and then misses, then back. Anyway, it backfired really bad at first, so I rechecked the timing. Reading the forums and such, I removed the VC, rotated the crank to 10 BTDC, then had the distributor at #1. Now it doesn't backfire, but won't start. Haven't check spark, I'll check tomorrow, but with the backfire, I'm pretty sure it's good. Tried reversing the injector clips as well in case i hooked them up backwards. Does anyone have like a general checklist I can run through? The way I have the timing, if the crank is on TDC, the Cam dowel is slightly past 12 and the timing mark is at around 3 oclock. Running out of things to think of, timing seemed the most likely but maybe I still haven't done the distributor right? Please let me know if you guys have a list or something I can do tomorrow to check everything out. TPS has not been set yet, waiting for it to start obviously... Any help would be great! Sucks having a new motor and it won't start.... -TheAxeGod 88 Quest TSi

I just got my rebuilt engine in (88), and after putting everything back together and fixing a few coolant leaks, we tried starting her up. First thing to notice is that the starter seems to be skipping, which it didn't do before. It cranks for a bit and then misses, then back. Anyway, it backfired really bad at first, so I rechecked the timing. Reading the forums and such, I removed the VC, rotated the crank to 10 BTDC, then had the distributor at #1. Now it doesn't backfire, but won't start. Haven't check spark, I'll check tomorrow, but with the backfire, I'm pretty sure it's good. Tried reversing the injector clips as well in case i hooked them up backwards. Does anyone have like a general checklist I can run through? The way I have the timing, if the crank is on TDC, the Cam dowel is slightly past 12 and the timing mark is at around 3 oclock. Running out of things to think of, timing seemed the most likely but maybe I still haven't done the distributor right? Please let me know if you guys have a list or something I can do tomorrow to check everything out. TPS has not been set yet, waiting for it to start obviously... Any help would be great! Sucks having a new motor and it won't start.... -TheAxeGod 88 Quest TSi

I could use the injectors, thanks shipping to FL 32539

My 87 injectors are leaking, and I need a new set of injectors. If anyone has an extra set, please email me and let me know please with a price. Thanks! I do believe 87-89 are all the same right? Thanks. TheAxeGod