Damnit man

Bought an oil cooler, it was shipped out very quickly and was in great shape. Great seller!

I have an 85 maf since I went to a 1G I don't need it anymore. Let me know if it will work for you.

Knock Box and Oil Cooler Needed

Just figured out how to leave feedback on here! Bought a silicone intake boot, it arrived fast and works great! Thanks!

Wow that is a bad car! Clean!

A new pic of the engine bay. Intercooled, 1g maf, k&n, GFB electronic boost controller, and a little bit of powder coat. AEM wideband should be here monday. http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac149/donovanp33/20131102_010844_2_zpse9cea938.jpg http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac149/donovanp33/20131102_011000_zpsf3fb4f69.jpg

I'll take the turbo timer.

Pm sent on intake tube.

I have the 85 very cool. Kyosho makes great models.

That problem solved as a bad MAF, I got a new one. Reconnected my FCD and found I had the wrong one! I have a K3 FCD but we need the standard one for our cars! Found this thread:http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56791 and I am thinking this can be done from outside the ECU any thoughts? I want 12 PSI factory fuel cut is 10.

Very nice! Also an 84 owner!

Turns out the MAF that I replaced was also bad. Ran it without the maf and it boosted fine. So now on the hunt for a 1G MAF.

True, will check everything out more extensively this weekend. The guy I got the dizzy from said it works, and took his word for it. I have one more from the old engine from my car too, I can try. The fuel filter is new, and behind the Walbro 255 pump. Need to get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, maybe fuel pressure regulator isn't working correctly with the Walbro pump on boost? The thing that gets me thinking it is ECU related is the car runs great, until I hit 6.5psi exactly no matter how I get on it or what RPM I'm at. It's like a computer controlled limiter, but I thought FCD would fix that.

Changed distributor and still the same. Better description of the problem is it feels and sounds like a rev limiter but at different rpms and at 6.5 psi. This has to be ecu related...

Yeah, I kinda thought ignition related. A friend of mine is going to let me try another distributor tomorrow to see if that solves it. Tried with and without vac advance no difference. NGK wires 10% advance at idle. I did some research and this thread is the best I got, and it isn't too promissing. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115275&st=0 may have to go stand alone fuel management sooner than I thought.

So I ran into a problem with my 84. I added an Autometer boost gauge and decided to adjust the wastegate actuator 3 turns in towards the actuator to try to build a bit more boost. I am just trying to get to 10lbs for now, and yeah this was probably a dumb way to do it. Anyway after I made this adjustment I hit 6.5-7psi boost and hit what I think is fuel cut off. I have an HKS FCD installed on setting 2. Followed the install directions and confirmed the wiring with my FSM. So I thought maybe my FCD was defective, so I returned that to stock and grounded the fuel pump to the chassis, no change still cuts at 6.5-7psi. Thought MAF was bad, so changed it for another 1 I had, no change still cuts at same pressure. Changed boost sensor for another one I had, still no difference. I had NGK bpr8es plugs in for about 2 weeks and it was running too rich, plugs black, so I switched back to new stock BPR6ES plugs, and have a Walbro fuel pump with filter behind the pump both at the tank. Car idles and runs great but when i get on it into boost it goes pop pop at 6.5-7psi. Could it be ignition cutting out instead of fuel? Also could a leak around the accordion tube from the maf to the turbo cause this?

You gave him a great response that told him exactly what is needed. A quick google image search shows him pictures of what he needs, and the FSM has a page that shows where it goes with pictures, on my manual it is in 23-35. So yeah, lazy jerk.

Can't seem to find one. I have a universal one that was measured up to a correct one, but would like to have the correct one for the 2.6.

My plan is to keep the paint scheme but kind of improve it. I plan on switching out the rims with either gold 5 stars or some gold meshies with aluminum finish rim, but definitely holding on to the stock gold wheels. It has some body cancer that I have to deal with especially on the drivers side door. May have to replace the door. If I have to replace the door, are the fatty doors compatible with the flatty? I know they still have the seat belt piece on them, just not sure if the shape stayed the exact same throughout the different years..

Thanks!

Thanks, that's what I thought.

Vacuum advance, needed or not? Advantages/disadvantages to using it, cause I've heard that you don't need it and I've read that you do need it.