obsolete
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Posts posted by obsolete
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Thanks a lot for all the great info, @kev. I hope your leg is healing well.
I'm going to have access to a manual belt parts car next week and I'm hoping to be able to pull everything I need to convert my '88. One thing I've never done before is remove a headliner. Do you have any tips? Hopefully it's fairly straightforward.
If you'd like to collaborate on a how-to, I'd be happy to contribute any pictures and info needed.
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Congrats on a leak-free A/C system. Did you do reduced barrier hose or regular? I tried doing reduced for the first time on my Corvette last year and one of the crimps leaks. I think I'll just redo that hose with regular, I don't need the extra space or flexibility that badly.
Maybe these guys for the adapter: https://autosportsengineering.com/product/autosports-engineering-driveshaft-adapter-dodge-conquest-mitsubishi-starion-to-1310-1350-u-joint-flange/
Doesn't come the hardware and flange yoke like Mikie's does, but it's cheaper.
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I have a transmission out of a car and a 6" digital caliper. How accurate do the measurements need to be?
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Yeah, dealing with headers around a steering shaft sucks. Hopefully you can find a good solution that isn't a bunch of time or money.
What did you end up doing with the steering column at the firewall?
That quote seems pretty high to me. PST will make you a custom length 2" steel driveshaft that they rate for 500HP, with 1330 u-joints and slip yoke for under $400 shipped. Slap an adapter from MKS on the differential flange and you saved $150.
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Hey @techboy, thanks to you and this thread, I am now a member of the successful Starquest hatch spoiler removal club, and I've got the special-edition, members-only allen wrench to prove it:
This is a hatch I bought from a part-out years ago, its spoiler will now live on to replace the wavy one on my car. Thanks for the great thread!
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If you are going to get something cut out of plate, these guys are great: https://sendcutsend.com/. You can upload your design and get a quote instantly. Their prices are super reasonable.
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I'm really sorry to hear that. Bill had a lot of knowledge about starquests and helped a lot of fellow owners over the years, but unfortunately never learned to politely disagree with anyone. I hope his family is doing okay and that they are able to find a good home for his car.
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I like your thinking. I bet the mounting will be easy. You can skip buying the Hyundai high pressure line and just use a banjo-to-AN adapter. I know Summit, etc. have steel ones that are intended for power steering.
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That's pretty light for an iron block V8! The T5 looks like it was made to be in that tunnel, too.
Rack swap also looks really nice. Are you happy with how the geometry turned out?
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Where's the 5-cylinder love? 😄
Starquest has to stay inline in my opinion, so turbo 4, 5, or 6 is the way. I wish there was a small, light, cheap all-aluminum DOHC 5 or 6 that would be an easy RWD swap, so I voted turbo 6, even though in reality I'm doing a turbo 4 swap.
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Been there. Just keep making revisions, you'll get it right. And optimize the design to reduce plastic so you don't go through so much filament on prototypes 😉
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4 hours ago, bflann said:
Looks like 1 person bought the four 2.6L's, does anyone here know that person
I don't.
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Thank you for posting this! Mine is feeling a little loose, it's on the to-do list before it blows off like yours did.
Do you know whether the clips are still available?
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There are four 2.6L engines being sold here. One of them lists 160psi compression, which I think is too high for 7:1, so these may all be NA blocks, but could still be a good buy depending on how cheap they go.
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Agreed, well-sorted car for a very reasonable price. Great buy.
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That's a pretty cool idea. If it works as well as they say, I may be a future customer.
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Try gapping those plugs down to .032" and see if that helps. .044" is too much for these cars in my experience.
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Welcome to the forum!
What kind of plugs are you using, and how do you have them gapped?
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Is this BOV something you'd be interested in? I've had it for years, was planning to run it for the period correct coolness but my car came with a perfectly good Greddy on it so I'd be okay with letting it go. I have tested it and it works. Would look amazing polished up with some new stainless hardware. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
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Yeah, since D2 and KSport have gone up 50% in price, $2,200 isn't too bad in comparison.
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38 minutes ago, tux said:
Nice find.
The wipers themselves are getting hard to come by too.
I found an adapter on Amazon for using newer style blades.
Is that the screw-on adapter? I've seen those but am hesitant to cut the ends off my stock arms.
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I thought the K&Ns were still available recently, but I can't find any now, so we might be stuck just trying to find new old stock.
I have a used K&N that I could part with if you're interested. It's in good shape but needs to be cleaned.
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These are discontinued and have gotten stupid hard to find. Get 'em while they last: https://www.ebay.com/itm/204220051048
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Looks like more great progress. Nice solution on the heater core, I think you'll be good to go with that NPT nipple, but I understand the fear with it being buried under the dash.
Here's what I think my steering shaft is going to end up looking like. 3 u-joints with a rod end for support. This is the first configuration I've tried that seems to work without binding. Next I need to build a mounting bracket for the rod end. I'm going to make a plate to bolt on where the steering box used to, then try welding some square tubing to it at an angle for the rod end to bolt through with jam nuts. Apologies for the condition of my engine bay, I haven't painted it nicely like yours yet, but I only have one car to work with!
Here's my steering column mount. I went through several revisions but I think this will be the final design. The tilt feature still works well, the column goes through its whole adjustment range smoothly. I ended up making the adapter 3/4" thick to nudge the steering column a little farther into the car. It's actually 2 pieces, a 3/8" thick adapter and a 3/8" thick spacer between that and the Borgeson universal mount. 3D printed TPU bushing between the 1.5" mount and the 35mm column. I will get the adapter made from aluminum, but the spacer will probably stay plastic, maybe I'll try some TPU there too for vibration damping.
It took me several tries to get the dimensions on the adapter right. The firewall bolt pattern is really odd, but I eventually figured it out. I have the CAD files if it would be helpful.
Interior "Upgrades"
in Newbie Question and Answers
Posted
Thanks! Is it glued to the roof at all?