Oscar_the_Grouch

Luis ! Bud how've you been man ! Sorry for the lack of communication but its been a rough couple of months... Anyhow thanks for the feedback man, hope all is well with the little one. Did you enjoy the CUBANS ? PS... Peeps I have added pics of the lines and I am still working on the COLOR sleeve that Techna-Fit offers on their lines to see if we can get a deal on those as well. Will keep you posted. Oscar

Hello all and welcome to Spark plugs 101 Here will be some info I have gathered over the years on some Spark plugs I have used and personally tested. Have provided some part numbers and pics so you can relate. ANY imput you may have to ADD to this post please by all means POST ! Lets Start... See chart bellow: - If you are running a STOCK car then the OEm plugs will be FINE. - If you have some MINOR mods done to the car (+30-40HP) then go 1 range colder on OEM plugs - If you have mods done to the car (+40-70HP) then go 2 range colder on OEM plugs OEM OPTIONS....(See chart bellow) - Use the Eclipse plugs with DUAL Ground Electrodes to increase the spark, to multiple due to multiple electrodes and at the same time get a BETTER spark as the center electrode is EXPOSED to the Air/Fuel Mix thus a better combustion. And also this will serve as an Anti-Fowling system over the OEM single ground electrode. RACE App. - You can use the RX7's Spark plugs for wildly modified cars to better attomize the air/fuel mix as they have 4 ground electrodes with an exposed center electrode. These plugs were designed for the rotary engine because a rotary motor are VERY turbulent in the combustion chanbers thus they needed a spark plug with GOOD firing capabilities. The multi pronged sparkplugs help make sure you get a SPARK or a multiple spark under the worst possible conditions. - You will need to experiment with your ride to see which one will benefit you the most. From PERSONAL experiences....I have used them all and I like the BR8EQ-14's. These will give you a little bit of hessitation when cold but for about 3-7 minutes then its HOLD ON BABY! If you like more of the INSTANT power then go for the BR7EQ-14's these will be great on EXTREME cold days BUT these are NOT recomended for road race as they get REALLY hot and can fail on you. And finally the 2nd Gen RX7 Plugs are the latest and are good but I still preffer the 1st gens for teir "MUSHROOM" spark kernel effect. the 2nd Gen's are more of a sideways and upward kernel. Again these are personal tests and testimonials so its up to you to test these on your car as we all have different upgrades and modifications and very seldon two cars are the same. I hope some of this information helps some of you as I was pretty ignorant to the specifics of HEAT RANGE and KERNEL size and its effect on combustion gases. Enjoy ! Oscar Plug Comparison http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/plugcompsheet_copy1.jpg heat Range explained http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/ngkheatragecode_copy1.gif NGK Letter number guide http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/plugnumberkey.jpg

I think close to $650.00 ! And NOTE thats NOT the complete engine. He does not have in that picture the MPI lines the Brake booster lines or the misc other lines under the hood plus the ones you dont see Oil cooler lines ect. It adds up after a few long and custom lines. He's gotten EVERY single line I make and then some ! Its it was rubber he replaced it with Steel braid !. If you are interested I can work something out just e-mail me ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) but I dont have a package set up as this may be out of range for most of us on the site as a one time investment. But rest assure these lines will most likelly outlast your car if well maintained. Thanks for your interest. Oscar

NO... these are OEM replacement sets. These lines repalce the ONLY the OEM rubber lines and they attach at the SAME points as the OEM lines. NO hardlines are replaced. The FRONTS have the attaching points at the wheel well were the hardline comes from the engine bay and goes to the strut and the second line goes from the strut to the caliper. The REARS have the attaching points at the wheel well to the strut then a hardline from one side of the strut to the other then the second line from the other end of small hardline to the caliper. This small harline in the rears ARE RETAINED. you DONT replace NOTHING but the OEM hoses. Now the reason why most steel braided lines fail at the joint or hose end is because of their inability to bend as easily as a rubber hose that close to a FIXED joint. Thats why Steelbraided lines HAVE to have the CORRECT length. Too long a line for the application and the line will extend into possibly damaging areas. If the line's too short you will run the risk of premature breakage due to insuficient room to bend propperly. Now MOST of the brake lines you see WILL have that little rubber boot on the ends to prevent the line from bending too close to the end. The rubber end before to the metal end bends just enough to be flexible but not hard enough to cause damage to the line. This is ONE of the things that differs a DOT approoved line froma NON-DOT line. Hope this answers your question... Oscar

OK... Welcome to Brakelines 101 =) The OEM system uses 2 lines per corner for a reason. The TWO line system keeps lines from getting kinked, pinched or snaged by rotors, suspenssion moving parts or any road debri. Note on the OEM set-up the line thats attached from the STRUT to the caliper.... that line has NO movement as its the line closest to ANY moving parts. the other line from the wheelwell down to the strut is the one that flexes and streches as you turn or go over bumps. With the ONE line per corner that line is just LONGER as it has to do both jobs and it has more chances of getting snaged or caught with any of the suspenssion parts. The ONLY way I will recomend or endorse the ONE line per corner over the TWO line system is if the one line system has a fitting in the middle were it attaches to the strut at the OEM location AND its stationary from the strut to the caliper. If you use a SINGLE line from the wheelwell to the caliper with no other attaching point you also run the risk of the line streaching too far during cornering and this will SNAP the line. Reember the Teflon Steel Braided lines dont strech as easily as the rubber lines. This is WHY I recomend the TWO line per corner systems. Hope this helps explain the issue of the 1 vs 2 lines per corner. Oscar

Hello ALL Well I have a NEW addition to the www.SteelBraidLines.Com line of products. I will NOW start offering the "Techna-Fit" brand of DOT Legal Brake line KITS. These are the 8 Line KITS ( 2 Lines PER corner ) Our KIT's part number is MIT-1400 and they sell it on their site for $180.00+sh. Other sites sell the kits between $160+sh and $180+sh. I will be offering them for $145.00 SHIPPED anywere. http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/8_line_kit.jpg http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/brakeline_close.jpg I am working with them to see if I can get a deal on the COLOR covers they offer but no promises yet. Guys these are comparable to the Goodridge lines at almost $50 more over Tecna-fits retail price of $180 so you are getting a deal as far as I am concerned. PLEASE do not confuse these with the 4 line kits that show up on Evil-Bay every so often these are the 8 line KITs I will have some kits ready to ship withing a week and then I will have them in stock as with most of the other lines I offer. e-mail or post your comments, concerns or questions. ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) Thank you for your continued support and for considering me for your needs. Oscar

Boosted77 I CANT take all the credit for these Rear Camber Plates as "artinist" (Art) was the man who designed them and made them first for us, then he asked me to take over production and the next GP so here they are but with a "GROUCH" touch to them (Steel, Powder coated and Stainless Hardware). So far these plates have been sold all over INCLUDING UK, AU, NZ, Ukraine (Yes ther's a Starion in the Ukraine!) and the latest sale to a member in New Guinie! Now thats worldwide coverage :mrgreen: Thanks again for all of you for considering me for your needs Oscar

chromepuff... I did NOT take any offence in what you said. I DID take offence that you did NOT contacted me when you sprung a leak. I thought it was public knoledge that ALL my lines are GUARRANTEED unless they are misstreated or installed mpropperly. I DONT expect you to buy another used set to send me yours I gladdly send you a replacement set ASAP if you needed but I WILL need to know if if its the LINE itself or the seals of the copper washers. If the line leaks from the FITTING were it is cripped then ITS COVERED. If it leaks from the copper selas or a KINK on the line that was not there prior to install then ITS NOT covered as this is NOT manufacturing error but install error. So let us know if your leak stops and we'll go from there. Dont trash talk my products unless it REALLY needs to be trashed talked about. Lets get to the problem and fix it. If its the line's fault I WILL FIX IT. But if its install error then I cant do a thing abou it. Thanks Oscar

I am on the same boat.... Wanted to wait till someone else asked first or ask him personally when he replied to me but nothing yet. "Homo price" LMAO This is like that thing with NISMO (Nissan Motorsports) they say if NISMO stands for that then HOMO should stands for Honda Motorsports. LOL

Hello Andrew... Bud if the Steel Braided lines you bought from me are leaking on you I will repalce them for FREE. Its part of my WARRANTY. If you did NOT bend them past their limit, kinked them in any way or snaged them while installing them and they leak from the crimp on fittings NOT from the banjo copper seals then I WILL WARRANT them 100%. e-mail me directly to get this matter resolved ASAP. ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) Guys... if any of you buys ANY of my lines and they LEAK, PLEASE let me know and I will make things right ! These lines are supposed to be tested PRIOR to shipment by my shop so if there's a problem i want to know about it so I can go bust a cap in some ones A$$. Thanks Oscar

Best investment BEFORE you go adjusting all the Camber, caster, Toe, ect BLIND is to buy yourself a Pyrometer or an infrared temp meter. Pepboys, Kraggens and Harbor Freight tool have them for aprox $59-$79 and they WORK ! They are a NON-Contact Lazer temp meter that can be your BEST tunning tool for your suspenssion on track days. The thing is that your tires are the BEST set of sensors you can use to monitor the cars suspenssion while on the track (Mainly Road Corse) The idea is to get the tire temp as EVEN as possible ac ross the entire contact patch of the tire. You take readings in 3 to 5 different places across the face of the Contact patch as illustrated bellow: Looking at the tire from above 1 beeing OUTSIDE 5 beeing INSIDE of the tire - If Zone 1 has a higher temp reading than 5 then you have too much POSSITIVE camber as the outside of the wheel is in more contact witht eh road than the inside. - If 5 is hotter than 1 then you have too much NEGATIVE camber due to the tire's INSIDE are having too much road contact. - If 3 is hotter than 1 and 5 then you need to drop tire pressure. you have overinflated tires. - If 3 is cooler than 1 and 5 then you need to add air as you are running underinflated tires. - Now if temps are pretty much even across the face then you have OPTIMUM Conatct Patch contact with the road and this translates to better handling. NOTE: these Temp readings MUST be done QUICKLY after a run (Auto Cross event) or while to pull into the pits on a Road corse event. The faster you take the temps after the run the more accurate the readings will be. Any questions about this tunning procedure please post here or e-mail me for more info. Thansk and I hope this jhelps some of you out there. Oscar

Guys if any of you are interested in these KITS I am having a June SALE $300 00 shipped for all CUSTOM parts (Powder coated) MINUS the Rotors, Calipers, pads and Brake lines. (Thats a 65.00 Discount over original price) See the For sale or GP section or just e-mail me for info at: ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) Thanks Oscar Useless facts.... I have sold a total of 30 KITS INCLUDING the original 10 from the ORIGINAL GP. Including 1 in Puerto Rico, 1 in the Virgin Islands, 3 in Hawaii, 3 in the UK , 3 in Australia and 1 in New Zealand. So these are Nationally known and tested. Thanks Oscar

This is what you get for the NOW $300.00 CLICK BELLOW: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oscardortega...c4a&.src=ph This other link shows the completed KIT and insall procedures of the KIT REMEMBER the KIT I sell as priced above ( $300 ) does NOT INCLUDE : - Rotors - Calipers - Brake pads - Brake Lines CLICK Bellow: For install pics and more pics of all the componets. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/oscardortega...286&.src=ph BUT I can get them for you at COST if you wish BUT the rotors will be better purchased locally to you to save on shipping costs. DONT WORRY with your purchace you WILL get all the info and part numbers needed to get the rotors, pads, calipers ect. Any further questions please dont hessitate to ask. Hope I answered your question. Oscar

If you are looking for Steel braid Fuel Lines I offer those as well, CLICK the LINK in my Sig. Thanks Oscar

Found the perfect match for ours on the "HELP" section of the small bits and gadgets of Pep-boys or any other auto parts store. They have ours and several other models to fit GM and Honda. Hope this helps Oscar

I can accomodate all 4 of your Quests if you want. If you outfit all 4 of them with the plates take $5.00 off EACH set so $75ea set SHIPPED. As for the fronts I am still back and forth with the manufacturer that has $500 of my hard earned CASH as deposit. They are in the middle of the racing season so small projects like OURS sorta take back seats. But I HOPE by months end I will have something in my hands. That can be the plates, my money or their 8alls ! :mrgreen: e-mail me at ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) if you are interested in the offer or any other questions. Oscar

BUMP !

Guys.... I have ONE head and ONE Un-Moded MPI still available for immediate delivery. E-mail for details ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) Thanks Oscar

Still have these left folks ! First come forst served basis. Thanks Oscar

Hello All As you all know I am the Big Brakes distributor. I need to clear some inventory. I am offering the Big Brake KIT (Customs parts ONLY) for $300.00 Shipped. regularly priced at $350.00 plus shipping. You will get ALL Custom Steel brackets, spacers, fastners and instructions. I will also help in locating the additional parts needed if you weant me to. You will need in addition to the KIT: - Two Rotors (BMW rotors) - Two Wilwood Calipers (I sell these at COST $130.00ea Shipped) - Brake pads (over 20 compounds to choose from) - Custom length Front Steel Braid Brake Lines Any questions PLEASE dont hessitate to ask. Please e-mail me for a faster reply. Thansk Oscar ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net )

Jason Sorry for the wait in reply but I did not see this reply or your payment I DO appologize and the Dist will ship shorttly. As for the Cap and Rotor I have my Aussie contact looking into them allready so it will be a few before I get you the numbers. I'll be in touch. UPDATE on 2nd Gen heads. One of the members that had a deposit on the head has backed out for un-disclosed reasons. so as of now I have one 2nd Gen head available for immediate shipping. Same as the pics above BARE, Bead Blasted and crack/Presure tested. please e-mail me directly for faster replies. ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) Thanks Oscar

Hello all Well I am in Miami for two days ONLY (Sunday May 28th and Monday May 29th) on my way back to Cali and wanted to see if any of you here in Maimi or NEAR-BY areas (Holiwood, Ft Laud, Kendal Ect) had a GOOD CONDITION LSD Diff from and 87 ONLY you are willing to sell. Its cheaper than shipping it so I will like to take advantage of the $25.00 fee the airlines are charging me to take it with me. So if you live in or near MIAMI and have a GOOD 87 Diff to sell me prefferably cleaned of any unwanted South Florida dirt and grime =) and LEAK FREE PLEASE (Axel seals MUST be in good condition, rear cover seal needs NOT be good BUT Diff MUST be drained for transport) please e-mail me ASAP at ( oscar-the-grouch@sbcglobal.net ) or at my old addy at ( oscardortega@yahoo.com ) Please INCLUDE your phone number and were you are so I can call you and arrange for pick-up. If you have a GOOD Toprque tube to go with it I may be intereted in it as well. Thanks guys Oscar

Huh ! See I thought they did.... But, YES I can get the CAPS and ROTORS no problem but may take a while. WIll get you prices and let you know as soon as I get a reply from Australia. Thanks Oscar

ONLY One at this time bud. And YES its in working order WITH the OEM Electrical plug needed for aftermarket ignition hookups leads. NO Cap and I think NO Rotor I have to double check its been a while (But they use the same ones as we do) $75.00 Shipped and Guarranteed or money back or credit towards anything I offer. Oscar

RG Be warned about E-bay and overseas sellers, one of them was selling 1st gen heads as 2nd Gens. Also some dont even reply to e-mails. Also take shipping costs, import/customs taxes and shipping insurance into consideration when bidding in overseas items. Just stay aware of things and details before you send cash overseas as Pay-pal and overseas accounts are a BIACH to file a claim against. (PERSONAL Experience) Casting Codes: M1-M5 = Australian 1st Gen Castings (Very similar to our POS's) M6-M8 = Australian 2nd Gen Castings (The BETTER: cast, alloys, coolant and air passages size for increased flow and cooling) M9 = Australian 3rd Gen Head castings (Higher compression, kidney shaped chanbers may interfere with US Spec valvetrain) Hope this helps Oscar