NudeLobster

fully polished metal looks just as good as chrome. I've polished a gun barrel up to 2500 grit and polished...MIRROR. -Justin

I know that box... Felpro oil pan gasket! I've got one sitting in my room for my engine swap lol. looking good! -Justin

It's an AutoCADD file. I designed it with an inlay for my switch panel. If there is anyone that can machine it out of aluminum, that would be awesome. let me know how much and I can send you the money thanks, -Justin

If you make a white quest like that....I will <3 you. All the ads are always R04 cars. I would LOVE a white one to match my car

you should make it a jpeg/url so that i can download it on my blackberry -Justin

My plan is this shroud and fans with an thermostatic electric control. Right now both fans are wired to a single primary temp switch in the EGR sensor port in the intake mani. -Justin

In Roberts thread he shows pictures of an impressive (for non projectors) cut off. crisper cut off than even the stock lights. -Justin

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Fittings-Hoses/Section/Fittings-Plugs/Part-Type/AN-to-Hose-Barb-Fittings/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc -Justin

If you guys are that interested, I could ride up there with my old stock shifter and see. Only thing is time...it'll be a while. I havfe work and school through may and then I'm swapping my new block in. Then when my car is running, i can go -Justin

What I'm doing is running metric to -AN adapters on the oil sandwich and then -AN on the cooler too. You can then run -AN to hose barb fittings to go on the adapters. Then you just get the matching rubber hose, slide it on, and clamp it. -Justin

TF is 20 mins from my house. They are a great shop, I'm sure they wouldn't make/sell it unless it worked. -Justin

Figure I should post here rather than starting a new topic. Where would you guys suggest hoisting the engine from if the whole top end (head, manifolds, ect) is still on the engine? -Justin

That angle in the first vid is retarded -Justin

Head is coming off. I'm buying a short block from Bag O' chips. its a stock bottom end with somewhere between 60k to 80k on it with the original crank balanced, new bearings, oem rod bolts, BSE, and deck surface has been verified to be within OEM spec by a shop. I am also buying an aluminum oil cooler off him and going to get SS cooler lines since his cooler is AN fitted. I am going to: -Set up his lower end one stand, my whole engine on another -swap my CC 15lb flywheel to the new block -swap over all my new timing stuff since they have a whopping 50 miles on them -swap over my oil pump depending on what the new block's looks like; the one in my 100k engine was spotless with tight bearings still. ---New timing gasket obviously -Take off my top end from my block -clean/inspect head. If it's cracked, I am honestly screwed and not sure what I'll do. I spent 1200 on that head, and can't afford another 1200. I guess I could salvage the titanium spring and lifters, the SS OS valves, and everything else, but getting a new head casting machined for the OS valves and ported like that one was will be another 1200 I bet. I really hope 50 miles and an overheat doesn't require machining, let alone didn't crack anything. -If it's not cracked (every digit crossed), I'll take the top end a shop to verify the head is still flat -If it's not, I'll pull the mani's off and have them resurface it for 120 (60 assembly and disassembly, 60 for machine work) -Check threads for head studs to ensure they are clean, then swap over my ARP studs into the new block -Put my top end on the new short block -I have a new Ajusa here that I will be using since the block is within spec and the head will be verified flat either way by a shop -drop that complain in and run Indiana, I see where your coming from the too much RTV thing. I completely agree. One thing I do not quite agree with (yet) is the ajusa failing from the pits in the block surface. The ajusa should still seal on the surfaces around those pits. also, the ajusa has that silicone coating on both surfaces would should fill any pits. If it doesn't, those pits would be big enough to be visible I would think.

I don't understand how 200,000 psi tested, warrantied head studs is inferior to OEM head bolts. Yes, our OEM stuff is good s***, but it's not THAT good. Also, I con vouch that using too much sealant between the timing cover and block will cause a small coolant leak. I had a small wet spot on the front driver side of the head between the Ajusa and head itself. I had used RTV between the block and timing cover, and a super thin smear on both surfaces of the Ajusa from the block forward. I will not be doing that on my new one. I will fill in the crack with RTV and whip it smooth with a wet towel and leave the Ajusa alone. -Justin

Woah, what happened to MN? When did you move to Colorado? -Justin

I'm in downers Grove - about 30 miles west of downtown Chicago. I might be working then though.. -Justin

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/305306_277546192267408_253718547983506_982525_344309683_n.jpg

I messaged him on Ebay and he signed the reply by the name Oscar... He sells SS braided lines too -Justin

Bag o chips has a fresh 20 over crank sitting around. if you're interested I can tell him to PM you, or you can just PM him. he's deep into his new stealth TT right now though, so idk if he checks on here much lately. -Justin

Well I set the AFR tracking to a lower TPS value of like 3.8 and rpm of 2800.Did you keep the default lo-mid-hi load points? Maybe that could smooth it out. The car was running strong before I installed the gen 2, though all my heavy porting made the 1g a little unreliable. what is your mainscale? Mine was around -15, then I had to richen up low and mid, and pull a lot of fuel on high load. I have the tach wire for the GEN 2 going to the tach adapter output pin on the 6al box. I had matching and steady RPMs on the sensor read out on the translator unit. I'll have to go note all my settings again. I had the v1 output for the IAT at 2.2v and the v2 output for the baro at 4.6v That's all I really rembember off hand... -Justin

As long as the bolts going through the plates and bar are strong, they will transfer the weight and energy just fine from the mount and bar. I have the rear MK1 strut bar. I know it works because I can't mount it with the suspension compressed. the towers are too close together then. I would use an MK1 front bar if I could find one. -Justin

Mine is wired in and running. My tach wire is taking signal straight from my MSD 6AL. too bad I spun a rod bearing yesterday...I was going to get it dyno tuned soon. two main things I can't figure out: If I blip the throttle, it well rev up and stay at that rpm even though my foot is off. If I rev it hard/longer and let off, it doesn't stick as bad. I don't know what adjustment that would be. I tried bumping the TPS decay super high but i did not help. second: when cruising, and then I punch it to WOT, it dips lean (17) for a moment and then shoots up to 10-11 by the time boost builds. It's just jerky and a huge loss in power for that moment. What adjustment would that be? I tried bumping TPS enrich and it didn't seem to do much at all. -Justin

BOV sold and MAS pending! come take this intercooler away someone! -Justin

sorry, double post.