RedSpaceship

while i am sure that would work ... it does not look OEM. I'd rather it look and function like a factory piece so i opted not to cut the sensor side of my mint mass airflow sensor. Junkyards in NJ are a joke ... all the good yards are in the mid west. Perhaps its time i start looking on one of the online junkyard listings for a entire harness from a DSM. They won't sell just the plug as its not worth their time. If anyone knows a decent source ... please reply.

i did that too ... still does not look OEM ... not happy with it.

Guys after many suggestions researched in this forum i decided to stop messing around with my horribly beat up stock MAS and got a very nice working condition 1g dsm mass airflow sensor and made it fit with the stock dsm air can in the engine compartment. However i have exhausted any and all sources for finding a 1g MAS sensor plug for it to replace the quest plug i had to mutilate to make fit (if you clip the walls on one side it will plug right in to the 1g dsm sensor) ... has anyone found a reliable supplier for these? At the moment my fear is water will definitely seep in and cause issues and i'd rather not start rigging it with heat shrink and such to weather proof it.

catching on fire and unstable fuel pressure if the leak is bad enough..

it is used to send a crank position signal to a ford EDIS ignition module allowing you to toss your distributor and use a coil pack that is triggered by a EDIS module ...

Also, i need see if my $20 radioshack digi voltmeter works ok to check the the pulse of the MAF as it has a "pulsewidth" monitoring feature but i believe its a very limited voltage range... hopefully its enough. If it does not produce a nice sine wave i'll grab a analog meter as you suggested.

Mikec, as always, thanks for the good info. i tested the 12v supply to injectors so thats good ... working on vac leaks by removing the ac system that was sitting there non functional and redoing all the vac lines according to FSM routing. BMX, mine shows no boost reving at idle, are you sure the boost gauge is actually functional? I do not trust mine at all.

Not sure what it is but i have the same issue ... i ripped into it yesterday and noticed one of my soft boost pipes going from one side of the inter cooler to a hard pipe going through by the radiator was collapsed partially. I doubt this was the issue but it sure was not helping so i need to build a replacement from some silicone couplers or similar. So far i -cleaned the injector leads -tested injectors for proper resistance -replaced injector clips with new ones -tested that both flow fuel by idling off both by swapping the plugs -changed the older vac advance to a new one -changed to a new cap and rotor -new plugs, new wires (all the maintenance items were needed anyhow, rather old hardware under the hood) -cleaned main ground wire connection to the body by the battery -tested resistance of the wiring from ecu to injectors -cleaned the maf leads and it still will not go into boost and falls on its face under any throttle .. i have a feeling its the MAF but there are no good replacements and i have had no luck finding any way to test one via here or FSM other than owning a ancient 1980s proprietary test box that plugs into it. i'm new to these cars but not to restoring cars in general .. how you guys run these things without ripping all the wiring out and starting from scratch with something programmable and reliable is beyond me but i highly respect the owner of any quest that runs well much more now.

i saw a post showing the inside of one of these 20 year old injectors and it seems its not dirt making them leak or stick but rather rust and metal being eaten away ... i would soak them in gasoline or fuel injector cleaner rather. that will clear out dirt.

wheel bearing ... wheres my burger ?

corroded ground points ...?

when you decide to revisit this question ... for heavy file sharing only one way to go .. RAID 10 setup with SATA drives for inexpensive or SAS for expensive but faster sharing. Take your pick from any Dell tower server .. CPU utilization won't be too much of a issue for file sharing but hard drive will be hit heavily so a RAID10 gives you the speed you want. You guys would do fine with a $1500 2008 server with basic 4GB RAM, 1GB ethernet, decent CPU (xeon is all you will see in a good server) and a dam good storage solution ... i'd just pack 4 500GB SATA drives in a RAID 10 ... cheap and fast. I build servers for a top finance company for a living and Dell is good enough with a great savings compared to HP and IBM ... avoid supermicro or other crap brands like the plague.

Alex Feinman's ISO Recorder - very small and nice .msi install that adds ISO creation to your windows shell ... right click cd drive, create ISO, done. Slysoft's Virtual Clone Drive - also a very small and nicely done ISO clone drive mount .. much cleaner than daemon tools .. I use these two plenty for work allowing me to avoid use of CD media all together ... works great if you put them on a fast network store and mount directly from there.

agreed... def not the sec inj but still may be a faulty sec inj circuit or driver. checking the vac advance ASAP.

Good suggestions guys.. Yes it acts the same under load and otherwise. You can try to build boost in any gear and it just falls flat at 3k every time. No on the exhaust being clogged as its a 3in turbo-back with no cat. I will check the vac advance and report on it ... Inj plugs are what i suspected and redid them with new Bosch EV1's first thing, no change in situation from the grossly coroded stock plugs... Worst case... if i cannot get it running with the system as is i'll tear into it and drop a MS2 + EDIS and get rid of the stock computer and distributor .. i am all too familiar with that kind of setup and find it very easy to troubleshoot compared to a system that gives little to no feedback like the stock stuff in its current state of disrepair. Got the garage, tools, and experience but no time Anyhow, anyone have ideas for testing secondary fuel inj circuit to make sure it is doing its job ... hoping the inj driver in the ECU did not fry. Common thing on cars i've had in the past.