Lidoidol

yeah, a week would probably be better

com'on dont let this fall off

I believe you are talking about something like this http://rossmachineracing.com/images/large/175vstackt1.jpg http://rossmachineracing.com/images/large/175vstackt3.jpg

I agree with this idea

I think we should do a quote of the month for entertainment purposes, what do you guys think??

I do believe that is the quote of the month

Heron, denny, and myself have all seen firsthand the problems with the roller rocker conversion, HOWEVER... The M6 head comes with stock roller rockers... correct ratio... designed for the head. WILL NOT crush the valve seals... with the right lift... easy way to fix any concerns: Ferrea valvetrain in the works Another issue to be addresse is the cam profiles available, TIM_C hit it on the nose if anyone can find that post. The Schneider cams, although high quality, were originally designed for a NA motor. Turbo motors need a specific grind. same as nitrous and superchargers. Same reason I dont understand why guys have destroked the g54??? "It needs to rev to make power"...??? Shelby, back me up here, when was the last time you saw a street stock Big Block Chevy go over 7000RPM??? Point made

Thats why you route it out the pass side fender and always pick the left lane :eek1bluegreen:

what head did you start with and what are the flow #'s

this whole story reminds me of my buddy's mustang... Tranny started taking a crap, three weeks later, with the tranny out at the tranny shop, the guy says, and I quote: "So you didn't stop driving this when you realized there was a problem did you??" True Story :)

totally!!! Replace your PCV before you do anything, its cheap, probably needs replaced anyway, and could possible be the source of the smoke. As Indiana said, the next source would be the valve seals. You forgot to tell us how your turbo is? Shaft play? Stock? GT35R? How clean is your motor? Usually when you have a leak the best place to start is a couple cans of degreaser and a hose. Get it as spotless as possible first, then diagnose your leak. It's way easier to spot oil on a motor when its only located in one place

your first comment should have been your purpose with this motor, stock, street/strip or race. The first two pretty much dictate you drop it off as is and let them do there thing. If your building a race motor, you are going to want to do any stress relieving, clearancing or smoothing before you have it tanked and cleaned, otherwise, you need to do the cleaning process twice to make sure there are no fragments present.

ok I know this is going to sound ghetto as heck BUT.... If you have control over fuel (rising rate, stand alone, piggy back, et cetra) Make it as rich as you can and still run and look for your exhaust leak (if that is what it is) Most motors that haven't been tuned yet, with mods, tend to run lean. This can make it very hard to find a leak, once again assuming thats the problem. By richining the mix as much as possible you will suddenly have a major black carbon stain at the leak. Once again, I know it sounds ghetto but it works. If it is not a leak, Do you have mechanicals or hydraulics? If Hyd. did you soak and hand prime them? new or used? Mech, Lash set correctly? I know most of this is obvious but I've missed it befor and I've built more motors than I can count. sometimes you get in a hurry and forget stupid little crap

[16] 2002 Dodge Viper GTS ACR (pre-facelift) [10] 2008 Dodge Viper SRT-10 [8] Chevrolet C5 Corvette Z06 [16] Chevrolet C6 Corvette Z06 [6] 2004 Ford SVT Cobra [6] 2008 Ford Shelby GT500 - +2 SOOOO FUN TO DRIVE [16] 2009 Dodge Challenger SRT-8 [10] 2006 Dodge Charger SRT-8 - -2 STILL FUGLY, 2 too many doors [12] 2006 Ford GT

Been there..done that.. why did you have to make me remember

Oh I know but its still so wrong... and ugly it looks like they molded to a nissan pick up... ick

this guy should definitely be :hangman: That poor poor car

actually the pads are still available as I just bought some from Delray Mitsubishi in Delray Beach Florida I believe the part # is mb112 344

Keith

I was the one that had mentioned the Lake O idea but as Neil said its not exactly scenic anymore. Im game for whatever, and Im sure Heron and the other guys will be too. Neil you still in WPB?? Haven't talked to you in years!! You should swing by the shop one Sat night we have a little drift/show from like 10pm on

I would be very interested in an aluminum intake flange. 1/2 or 3/8 Thick I would like mine to be more contoured though not square I also need: 2 for the evo head 2 for the dsm head 2 for the SR20DET 1 for the 2JZ 1 for the RB26 1 for the RB20 Thats just for starters, I made a couple Sheet metal intakes for some guys and now I am getting a ton of requests so I need flanges, I am having to pay a local machine shop stupid money for them right now. I can get a gasket for the RB26 and RB20 if needed, PM me or better yet give me a call if you can Keith 561.859.6023 Any Time BARR Racing

When you say two tone, you mean black and tan?? If so I want it what all do you have?

bump to let everyone know pics will be up tomorrow night or sunday morning

Alright pics are coming been crazy at work (I work for Florida Power & Light if anyone watches the news :shock: ) Had a bit of a breakdown in the system so to speak and I have put in 31 hours in the last 48 8-[ But its finally over, I hope [-o< Any way I should have tie to get the pics togethet tomorrow and by the way new items added

wow now people respond.I will have to look back into this again as I kinda put in on the back burner due to lack of interest (check the thread dates) Will keep you all posted