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Everything posted by Komeuppance
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Just a friendly reminder, get out, and drive your car!
Komeuppance replied to Fanta's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
They're a carbon kevlar compound pad. Lpiracing.com has the fronts for $68, cheapest price available. I used the r4-s compound for the street, a lot less fade when the brakes are pushed hard in the canyon roads. Those kind of roads I daily and they make a huge difference. They do need to be warmed up to get maximum friction, you will feel it on the first cold stop in the morning. I liked them so much I put a full set on the wife's car. They are super dusty though... I know some reviews judge pads on dust, but those guys are too lazy to wash their cars. Besides carbon kevlar brake dust is cool LOL. -Robert -
They are the same spline, only the flange is slightly bigger on the LSD models. You can elongate the holes to get them to bolt up. -Robert
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What exactly were you trying to correct?? There was nothing said or suggested that was incorrect, besides your suggestion that the solenoid "wouldn't make much of a difference." It does make a big difference, and has been proven true on many 86 systems. To refute the FSM and other's information on the basis of one experience and guesswork is highly irresponsible, and especially when being condescending to others. It does say in the FSM how often it takes the readings: "The reading rises to 1.5v-2.6v every 2 minutes momentarily". You neglected to state the important part of the solenoids function (yes solenoid is a fancy word for switch), and that is allowing the MAP sensor to read the barometric level by switching the vac signal from the intake manifold to the air canister. The MAP sensor can't read the atmospheric pressure from a vac signal of a running engine. Omitting this is just like misinformation. Also, the 84-86 supplement is NOT available on Starquestgarage, it never was either. Not sure where you got that idea. -Robert
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Usually flatties are less sensitive to improper solenoid setup. Shelby just because you can run it, doesn't mean you should. You chastise about not reading the factory manual and suppliment, but then you also say you can work around it lol. One of the reasons people "don't understand 86's" and think they're "crap" because of misinformation. Having the proper altitude reading to the ecu makes a huge difference in the performance of the car. -Robert
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I think it really depends on what type of fish you're trying to get, bottom feeders or fancy fish. I fished right off the beach shore for crab, that was fun: Giant Enemy Crab caught with fried chicken bait. I'm not very good at catching fish, but I can catch crab like a sailor (pun intended). Sometimes all you can catch is a buzz, so make sure to bring beer to support your tackle box. http://home.comcast.net/~Komeuppance/ShaunKayak.jpg Don't need a boat to fish, these kayaks worked well in an ocean bay. More stable kayaks can be used in rougher waters. Oh yeah, watch out for seals, they like to steal your fish!! -Robert
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Not being scared...?? Lol... come on 'tony!! -Robert
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Verify your MAP sensor is connected properly. The MAP sensor includes the boost solenoid/altitude solenoid, if not connected properly it will cause the ECU to read the atmospheric pressure wrong and the engine will want to die after about 2 minutes.
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If you have an Mk1 trigger bracket you should be able to. -Robert
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I was waiting for them to stomp on it lol... -Robert
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Just a friendly reminder, get out, and drive your car!
Komeuppance replied to Fanta's topic in Just plain ol' B.S.
What about the guys who daily their cars?? Lol... Sounds like a good trip!! Pics?? BTW, you should upgrade your pads to Porterfields now. -Robert -
This is what it looks like at 141. Buy Sottys so you can keep up with me... lol... -Robert
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Another thread about crankcase pressure issues
Komeuppance replied to joey_crandall's topic in Virtual Mechanic
Have you checked your vac advance, and rebuilt/lubed your distributor?? -Robert -
Drill out the holes in the bracket where the sensor mounts. -Robert
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That's not bad at all, it's mostly there. A fiberglass repair kit to repair the structure on the backside and body filler on the front side. You can have it looking new in no time. -Robert
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I'm liquored up pretty good, but you are one of the best new members we've had in a while. -Robert
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Dealz for dayzzzz. Do you even have a Fiji to match?? Lol, I always get stories similar to yours about guys in high school who idolized the cars too. -Robert
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I forgot you live in Canadia, so I'm not sure what they do about free shipping from the US. But that one has the correct dimensions, and the inlet/outlet on the correct side, so yes it's the same thing as the rest. Organize by price + shipping lowest first and you can find the best deal that way. -Robert
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Haha Shelby I wouldn't let my daughter even get near that... freezing cold water = hypothermia. And Tech is trying real hard to remember his English since he's in China... trying too hard. Solutions for the common man!! -Robert
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Haha, search ebay for the best deal... "s13 radiator". There's some going for $115 shipped, or $135 shipped with two 10" fans. I thought it was implied in the thread, but I edited the first post for clarification. Yeah, just stick the garden hose in the coolant lines, anywhere you can to flush as much gunk as possible out. If your block is that cruddy, the passages in the radiator are much smaller and much more likely to hold crud. If your cooling system was doing the job before you tore it apart, it's probably fine for now. -Robert
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Garden hose and undiscerning neighbors... lol. Or you can do it the environmentally sound way by catching all waste water you flush out in buckets. Spray the garden hose into the coolant passage basically. You might try some cleaners, like CLR. If it's pretty bad inside your engine block, your radiator is likely in need of a cleaning, and the best way to do that is take it to a rad shop and have it taken apart and rodded. If it's more than $120, you may consider swapping in a brand new aluminum radiator: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=113241 -Robert
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Sounds like the trans to me, usually when an engine goes bad it'll be a knocking/tapping/rattling sound. If you can put the car in neutral and free rev the engine fine, then it's likely the transmission. I agree on taking it back to the transmission shop. -Robert
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Yeah, any of mine you'd like I can high Res for you. I'd post em up but I'm on the celly. -Robert
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Haha, not a fan of that beer... but I'll drink for the occasion. It'll be my 10 year anniversary here, not counting the lurking. -Robert
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Beers on Niko... Party time!! -Robert
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Lol, you might not be. -Robert