Gyvven

Thanks for the info Indy. I'll try to answer your questions. The motor was "rebuilt" by the previous-previous owner. Neither previous owner could get it to run. I bought it for a decent price and took off the oil pan to have a look. I has new pitons, I can't tell if they're Hypereutetics or forged, but they aren't stock. The crank is non-hardened, so I think the orig must have spun a bearing was sent in and he got this one in return. (Would have been better/cheaper to get a good used one, at least it'd still be hardened.) The head has the jve, but I didn't strip it down any further to see if it had the bsek. It still has the stock pcv. And yes I didn't put sealant at the semi-circular packings after I removed the valve cover. It's fixed now. I refer to the passenger side as the right side, because that's where my wife sits and she's always right. :biggrinumbrella1: I'm thinking I might heli-coil that bad ex-mani stud and see if that helps. You may be right about the exhaust gas escaping from there. The sound isn't "mechanical" like rubbing metal, but more like a belt rubbing or a reed of grass between your thumbs kinda thing (like an exhaust gasket vibrating between the head and manifold as gases escape?).

I'm not driving it hard at all and I'm rarely to the point of getting boost. It's basically a new motor, but since I didn't build it I'm taking it easy until I'm happy I got all the bugs out. I'll hook it back up, but I don't think that's the source since it did this before the BOV disconnect.

I disconnected my BOV the other day to see if it would help my idle and stalling issues. But I haven't hooked it back up since putting in the other ISC. I'm not convinced that's it though. I didn't notice any spiking on my boost gauge, and I never revved higher than 3.5k. When does compressor surge occur?

I had something similar happen except it was my "wash" light. I filled both reservoirs and it stayed lit. So I washed it. Hey, don't laugh, it worked. But it came back on a few days later, after it rained blew tree gunk all over it. It seems to know when it's bath time. Wow, those guys at mitsu were way ahead of their time. The light is still on because I haven't been able to wash it, but I'm sure it'll turn off as soon it's clean.

I'm getting a little concerned. I was driving and when I was accelerating from a stop light I'd get a fairly loud RRRRUP! Similar to the sound of a loose belt but more brief. I tensioned the belt the other day, so i don't think that's it. When I got home I popped the hood and there was a bit smoke coming out of the oil cap. The sound seemed to generate from the right side of the head when I revved it, but it wasn't nearly as loud. It seems to really only do it under a good amount of load. The car doesn't seem to stumble when it happens. Oil levels and pressure are ok. Possibly a wobbly turbo shaft? Here's some known issues my car has: No rtv around the valve cover, so a small amount of oil blows out the seal at the back. Gonna take care of that today. Missing tranny dust shield. Gonna take care of today. Cracked exhaust manifold. Missing exhaust manifold to head stud. Still got a power steering leak. I top the fluid before I drive it. heat shield from cat is banging on the floor. Gonna try and fix that today too. I was thinking about swapping in my spare head, but I don't have the money for a fresh head gasket and a set ARPs, to see if it's something sticky in the head. Any ideas would be helpful. I don't really want to drive it like this.

That doesn't sound too bad. Was that with just a 3" straight pipe or did it have a muffler?

I've been thinking it over and when I get around to redoing my exhaust I'd kinda like it to sound like one of those pick-ups with the loud pipes. I've toyed around with putting the glass packs I have sitting around from when I had my 69 mustang. I just love that rumble and pop you get out of them.There's nothing more annoying to me than those tuners whizzing down the road sounding like they're being chased by bees. I have no idea how some of those trucks get their sound or where to begin looking. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is it a good or bad idea?

I've been talking to a couple of paint suppliers and they recommend using Bulldog instead of a flex primer. I guess it's a bonding agent and gives the paint better adhesion to a flexible or plastic surface. Has anyone used this, or heard of someone who has? What kind of results?

Thanks Tman. I'll get in touch with him. My next question: The guy at CarQuest said he can only put enamel in an aerosol can. Will enamel paint blend well with our lacquer based paint when I do my touch ups? Or should I consider just buying a quart or two of lacquer and clear and use my own spray guns? In which case I'd have to buy an oil separator and fresh hose, so it's not really a huge savings. But at least I could buy enough paint to redo my whole car for the price I'd pay for a few cans of touch-up.

I whipped up a tester the other day but it didn't blink at all. I'll have to get an led and mount it. I haven't unplugged the isc/mps. But I did swap in my spare from my other tb. I took it for a spin last night and so far so good. I had to adjust the idle since it was about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It's not super smooth but it's nice. I'm going to go play with it some more this morning. Killtodie - Your cts is the one with the black boot over it.

I grabbed a spare CTS and tested it in a pot on the stove with a thermometer. The wife wasn't real tickled with that idea. It tested out fine, so I swapped it in, hoping that was my problem. It wasn't. I took it for a spin and a couple blocks later it started doing the same thing. I pulled over and disconnected it, it still did it because I didn't turn the car off. Pulled over again and turned it off for a few seconds, then it ran fine. It does a sort of CHUFF when under moderate acceleration though. Probably a backfire from running rich? So, I'm back to the same problem. After eliminating the CTS as the cause what else could it be? I have a spare ISC I could try. The only other thing in the circuit is the ECU. If there was a short in the wiring from the CTS wouldn't it run bad all the time? The funny thing is, the problem is sort of intermittent. It's run fine a couple times. FYI: My ISC beeps when the key is turned on, I haven't heard a zip. Why is that?

I've been pondering the idea of doing some of my body repair and painting myself and started doing some research. I called the local Sherwin-Williams Automotive Paint store and started asking questions about what I would need to get started. The very knowledgeable lady asked if my car had a base coat (lacquer) / clear coat or single stage (enamel) paint job. I have no idea, so I'm asking you guys. Which is it? Then she gave me the number to a CarQuest store that could actually put the paint in an aerosol can. When I was speaking with him he mentioned that he can only put enamels in the can. Prices would be about $47 for 2 cans ($25 to mix a pint, and $11 per aerosol can, 2 cans per pint). This seems a little pricey to me, but I guess not bad if it matches. The other thing I found out was instead of using a flex primer for the bumpers and spoilers I could use Bulldog to aid in adhering the paint to a flexible substrate. Has anyone used this before? The other question I had is concerning the tail lights. I want to separate the 2 layers and clean the back of the clear lens. I was told it could be done by placing it in an oven for a short period of time but they couldn't remember the temperature nor for how long. Any ideas? Or if you have a better way of cleaning the inside of the lens I'd like to hear it. Gyv

I did finally get that arm off. It took 3 days of beating on it and alot of penetrating oil, but in the end it I won. But while I was putting in my new seal it got a little crooked and I bent it. Ordered a new seal. This time it went in mostly straight, one edge got a little off and seemed to go in ok when I tapped it. It may not have been good enough because it's still leaking. I had sanded the shaft and edges down as best I could, so I think it must be that I screwed up on that seal install. Dang it! I've spent about $80 so far,$65 on the conical puller and $16 on seals, and it still leaks. I guess I'll need to figure out a way to get that seal to go in straight.

Why would the bearing cartridge need to be machined? Are you saying the small 16g compressor wheel would fit in the existing housing? Would a Big 16g? Couldn't I just swap compressor housings as well as cartridges? I saw a post where someone said you could use the existing housing up to an 18g without doing modifications to the compressor housing (I'll try and hunt it up). But you say any upgrade would need to modify the compressor housing. This is where the confusion sets in. I'm either getting conflicting answers or I'm not getting the whole story. Here's what I was thinking of doing: Buy a new 18g or 20g compressor wheel and housing, assuming my turbine is 05h and good, get a rebuild kit, stick it together and go. Or Buy a complete new DSM TD05h-18g or 20g, get custom downpipe and exhaust, stick it on and go. I know getting a whole new turbo would be more reliable, but a wheel and housing is cheaper.

My SQ currently has a 14b turbo on it, whether it's a compressor wheel stuck to the stock td05 or the turbine housing has been machined to take the td05h I'm not sure. I'm hoping it's the latter of the two. My questions revolve around info found here and other places, some of it conflicting. 1) I've seen compressor housings and wheels offered for sale. Could I buy one and just swap the compressor side of my turbo, including the proper bearings and such? I've seen both yes and no answers to this. 2) If the above answer is no; would I be able to use a 1G or 2G exhaust housing? I realize the exhaust would need to be customized due to the different waste gate design but at least it has the mitsu flange.

How much for the wheels?

We spent a couple hours fiddling with the injector clips, cleaning them, running new leads, fiddling with te ISC and TPS. None if it helped. The Technology (Andrew) came over unplugged the coolant temp sensor and away she went. I'll be replacing that soon, but at least for now I can take it down the road.

This explains a lot. Every time I pushed in the clutch when coming to a stop the engine would die. The car has a 1G mas, BOV/recirc, and 14b turbo. I think what I'm going to do is hook the BOV so it actually recirculates that air. Some of the guys from the forum came over this past weekend and we dialed in the timing and reset the TPS. Even after driving it the MPS still read 1.77v. The car runs and idles great now. However, we found that my CTS is bad since the car would absolutely crap out when I got it up to 2k rpm. I've got a spare intake with sensors that I'm going to swap out and see if they work. We never heard the zip but I think putting a new CTS will fix that issue. Then I'll redo the TPS adjustments.

Thanks. I was thinking that was the problem, but it's sporadic so I couldn't be sure. That'll be the first thing I'll do today.

I can rev up to whatever I want when not under load, but as soon as I put it in gear the motor will stall at or before 2k. Once the car slows down enough and the revs get to about 1800 it'll kick back in, of course as soon as that happens the motor will get up to 2k and cut out again. This only happens AFTER the car warms up a bit. Up til then it'll drive fine. I swear I must have looked like a kid with his first manual Ka-Chunking away from his first stop light. I learned how to drive it enough to limp it home but not without some embarrassment. I've checked for vacuum leaks, didn't find any, yet. Checked injectors and both are working and plugged in. Could be a bad connection along the pigtail. I'll be putting new connectors on so I'll find out about that. I'm stumped. It ran fine for 47 miles of a 50 mile trip home before it started doing this. I thought I had it fixed the other day because it ran fine for 15 miles or so with 3 brief stops. Yesterday I barely made it 3 blocks.

I thought I had warmed it up enough. I waited until the idle went up from 1k to 1500, about 5-10 mins. I didn't hear any zip (just that faint beeping) nor notice a change in the MPS voltage (+- .01v), which makes me think I wasn't on the right connections. However, I did try several other combinations and nothing seemed to be near the .9v area. Jesse, I wish I could have come by yesterday but I was up at the Mitsustyle spring dyno day. I met Andrew, Derek and Ryan there, and oddly enough I swung by Dwayne's house in the morning. I didn't have my car because it's running so bad, I'll be posting about that issue later. In the afternoon I dropped a motor into my buddy's AE86 then went to Star Trek. So, it was a big day and no time to play with my car. We'll need to hook up soon and get this thing figures out.

Anyone?

Not to be a stickler, but isn't that kinda far up to get a socket to reach? I was thinking of getting a short chunk of PVC to help guide it in. All this is assuming I can even get the arm off.

I'm following the directions as posted by Mike C. but I have a question about the wire colors, and then the measurements I'm getting. 1) He states that the MPS connector has Yellow+Blue, Yellow+Black and Yellow+Red on the harness side, and Red, Green and Black on the MPS side. Mine is set up with the Y+Bl, Y+B, and Y+R going into the ISC connector (Black+Red, Black+Green, Black+Blue), not the MPS connector (Red, Green, Black). Did this get mixed up? It appears the connectors are set up so they are male and female so they can't be switched. 2) My measurement between the Green and Black on the MPS connector is 2.13v and stays constant. Does this indicate my ISC is bad? 3) I don't hear a zip when I turn the engine off and then turn the ignition on. I do hear a very quiet beeping coming from the ISC, or nearby area. Bad ISC? 4) My ISC screw is about to fall out I've had to back it off so far, and that only gets me to 1000-1100 rpm. 5) Eventhough my ISC measurements are off I put the multimeter to the TPS, without grounding the yellow+red, and it was right on 0.5v. Thanks, Gyv

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try the conical puller and if that doesn't work I'll yank out the box and do the impact hammer deal. I'm sure I got one of those lying around here somewhere.